how wide should i have my housing built I want to be able to run wider tires and don't mind some sheet metal work. I will stick with the factory style suspension but with stronger parts. my car is under about 6 feet of snow and i can't get the factory measurments from the thing gm calls a rear end housing my v6 broke it.

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You're throwing a 9 inch under a v6 powered car?? Wow. Do you have plans for a motor swap? My v6 hasn't busted an axle at all; of course I do yearly gear oil changes, that might have something to do with it.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

We carry the Moser Engineering Ford 9" housings. They are torque arm ready.

Just the housing is $460.00

Or you can get a package that includes the housing and Moser axles, bearings, and 1/2" or 7/16" studs for $795.00.

Steve

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Spohn Performance: F-Body Chassis/Suspension Specialists

 

Hmmm. Everything except brakes and the third member. If I destroy my diff with the big block this year I'll probably pick up that package. Lots of 9" third members around here. What brakes can be used on that package? Can stock f-body disks be used or do they need a ford brake system?

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Stephen's racing page

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

I have the third member and axles as well as disc brakes from my stepbrother all for free and yes the new motor is on the stand. the local drag track is six miles away and lots of vht and two turbos off of a 2.2 dodge can make a v6 sing the 700r4 went the same day. all i want is the numbers but if my name isn't lingfelter you think you can give me a hard time fine i will call the boneyard

 

haha sweet a Twin Turbo V6

Is that Egg On your face TomP ?

j/k bro


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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Livin' the Stereotype

 

You can use the stock f-body brake system. You just need to machine a counterbore on the backing plates and redrill it for the Ford axle housing flanges. This will also double as the axle retainer. I don't remember the dimensions for the counterbore but the instructions will tell you how to do this.



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1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'

 

A twin turbo v6? There's no egg on my face, because I don't believe it for a second. If he brings up pictures, then I'll believe it. I've heard too much worthless BS spouted around about twin-turbo'ing and supercharging the 2.8/3.1 motors that I refuse 100% to believe anybody's done this to their f-body. I also think that a stock twin-turbo'd v6 would've spun itself into oblivion. I also think that if he had such easy access to a junkyard, and could get the TT job done for cheap, then he would've done a supercharged v8.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Made mine but Currie sells the caliper backing plates for either the iron (early) or aluminim (late) brakes. $139/pr.

GM still sells the late plates for about $15ea.

 

Guys,

Don't you have to shorten the driveshaft a little after going to the 9" also? Not to mention adapting the GM driveshaft to the Ford yoke on the third member.



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Robert
'89 Turbo Trans Am
#799 of 1555
11.96 @ 109.11 w/1.62 60ft BEST Race Gas
12.53 @ 105.31 w/1.74 60ft.BEST Pump Gas
www.Hi-psi.com
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No, you don't need to shorten the driveshaft...mine is the stock length and works fine. I don't remember the part number, but I use a Spicer U joint to connect the driveshaft to the Ford pinion yoke.

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1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'

 

If I can adapt my current brakes then the package looks ever more appealing.

I agree with the spicer u-joint. It's not as strong as a new larger yoke but the conversion u-joint is available. I had a similar one in my old chev 4x4. Large spider yoke on the diff and small spider yoke on the driveshaft. It was the first time I found out about such a u-joint. With so many 9" diffs under chevys, the u-joint manufactures would be crazy not to create a simple way of joining the 2 yokes.

Steve: There's nothing on your site yet about having the Moser stuff.

I'm assuming the Moser housing uses the large style axle bearings?