Torque converter not locking up
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 73
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From: central florida
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Torque converter not locking up
When i step on the gas my car gets full power, but the transmission doesnt grab hard. It would usually bark the tires shifting 1st to second, now all i get is a small pump. It was working fine until I removed the gear selector module. I hooked up two wires from it, a large green and purple to my megashifter and it started and ran w/o a problem. There are four other small wires ; blk&white, green, orange and blue. do one of these control the torque converter lock-up? Does anyone have a scanmatic of the electrial wiring for all the tranny stuff? if anyone can help id appreciate it, i dropped alot of cash on this tranny and i dont want to smoke it like the last one.
thx!
thx!
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Torque converter not locking up
None of those wires have anything to do with the ECM.
On Probation
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 6,319
Likes: 19
From: Northern Utah
Car: seeking '90.5-'92 'bird hardtop
Engine: several
Transmission: none
Axle/Gears: none
Re: Torque converter not locking up
the lock up has nothing to do with no longer barking the tires. What selector module? These cars have no such thing, so what part are you mis-naming?
It seems to me you bought a shifter so you could slam second to bark the tires. Fine so far. Then realized the detents in the trans aren't a precise match to the detents in the shifter, and decided to remove the detents in the trans by dropping the pan and removing the thing.
IF this is the case, then you've lost the bark because you need to adjust the B&M shift cable.
As to your electrical, the shifter you installed should have connections for the reverse lights, for the neutral safety switch, which prevents the engine from starting if the trans is in gear, and a connector for the light so you can see what gear you are in at night.
On the driver side rear of the trans, above the shift linkage, there's a 4-pin connector for the converter lockup. For this, I suggest paying the money for the Painless Wiring lockup kit.
It seems to me you bought a shifter so you could slam second to bark the tires. Fine so far. Then realized the detents in the trans aren't a precise match to the detents in the shifter, and decided to remove the detents in the trans by dropping the pan and removing the thing.
IF this is the case, then you've lost the bark because you need to adjust the B&M shift cable.
As to your electrical, the shifter you installed should have connections for the reverse lights, for the neutral safety switch, which prevents the engine from starting if the trans is in gear, and a connector for the light so you can see what gear you are in at night.
On the driver side rear of the trans, above the shift linkage, there's a 4-pin connector for the converter lockup. For this, I suggest paying the money for the Painless Wiring lockup kit.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: central florida
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Torque converter not locking up
the lock up has nothing to do with no longer barking the tires. What selector module? These cars have no such thing, so what part are you mis-naming?
It seems to me you bought a shifter so you could slam second to bark the tires. Fine so far. Then realized the detents in the trans aren't a precise match to the detents in the shifter, and decided to remove the detents in the trans by dropping the pan and removing the thing.
IF this is the case, then you've lost the bark because you need to adjust the B&M shift cable.
As to your electrical, the shifter you installed should have connections for the reverse lights, for the neutral safety switch, which prevents the engine from starting if the trans is in gear, and a connector for the light so you can see what gear you are in at night.
On the driver side rear of the trans, above the shift linkage, there's a 4-pin connector for the converter lockup. For this, I suggest paying the money for the Painless Wiring lockup kit.
It seems to me you bought a shifter so you could slam second to bark the tires. Fine so far. Then realized the detents in the trans aren't a precise match to the detents in the shifter, and decided to remove the detents in the trans by dropping the pan and removing the thing.
IF this is the case, then you've lost the bark because you need to adjust the B&M shift cable.
As to your electrical, the shifter you installed should have connections for the reverse lights, for the neutral safety switch, which prevents the engine from starting if the trans is in gear, and a connector for the light so you can see what gear you are in at night.
On the driver side rear of the trans, above the shift linkage, there's a 4-pin connector for the converter lockup. For this, I suggest paying the money for the Painless Wiring lockup kit.
on the stock shifter there is a metal and plastic, cresent shaped sensor with a large plugin. the sensor has a plastic piece which fits inside the cresent shape, it has a small tab sticking off this plastic peace which slipped into a knotch on the stock shifter assembly. this plastic piece/tab within the cresent slides with the shifter assembly, telling the computer which gear it is in, making it turn on and off the reverse lights, and also only lets me start the car in park or neutral. When i had the transmission rebuild i was told this sensor had the neutral safety switch in it and would have to be rewired or removed to work with my shifter. As long as ive left this sensor on there, it has shifted fine.
My vehicle situation has changed and now my girlfriend willl be driving the car a bit, so im trying to take care of all the little headaches which could get her stuck without a way to get home.
I posted another thread asking which wires on this module were for the neutral safety and parking positions. I was told the larger green and purple wires. I did this and it worked. The car will now start in neutral and park without giving me a security light.
When i finally went out to drive the car it felt like its not getting the punch it had before. I can best describe it as cruising at 35, going pass someone, but when you hit the gas you get full power from the engine, but no downshift to give you the ummff to move forward. Its even lije when you jam on the gas in a manual car but have it in a gear to high for your original speed.
The car was fine till i moved the wires around on this sensor. I shifted perfect everytime. the trans only has many 150 miles on it and it was professionally built.
I bought the shifter used from a guy off this site, it works great but it didnt have the original instructions. The cable itself was set by the guys at pro torque during the rebuild, i havent touched it since.
I did move a cable that i believe was the tv kick down. From what i gathered the tv kick down, which was a black plastic cable with a tabbed male connector on the drivers side which snapped into a notch on the stock shifter assembly, was not used anymore b/c the shifter cable replaced it. When i removed it from within the inside on the console area i left it on the drivers side floorboard to test to see if it affected anything. The farthest i could trace the cable was back up under the dash behind the gas/brake pedal area. I thought the shifter cable replaced the tv kick down. could moving this cable be the reason for lockup problem? It was not attached to anything on the shifter before the problem began so i did not think it could have been the source of it.
I have not touch any of the internals on the trans or touched any of the other connections.
I had my wisdom teeth pulled today, so i cant go pick my car up till the morning. Ill take some pictures of what i have tommorow and post then so maybe its easier to see what im talking about. i really just dont want to blow this tranny up. I installed a shift kit before and had the metal band around the servo blow out on the first test drive. needless to say i smoked it and now i have a rebuilt transmission.
thx for all the info so far
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 11
From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: Torque converter not locking up
I did move a cable that i believe was the tv kick down. From what i gathered the tv kick down, which was a black plastic cable with a tabbed male connector on the drivers side which snapped into a notch on the stock shifter assembly, was not used anymore b/c the shifter cable replaced it.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: central florida
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Torque converter not locking up
i found some pictures on another thread with the parts im talking about




Last edited by fordsuks91; Oct 21, 2008 at 08:31 AM. Reason: edit
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: central florida
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Torque converter not locking up
its amazing what you can find on the internet when you are stuck at home and given some free time!
Im missing a relay that was not with the kit. Its all in the original instructions that i didnt have when i bought the shifter used.
here's the link http://www.bmracing.com/bmracing/ins...truction/8.pdf
its got the wiring diagrams, the relay numbers and everything. thx for all the help from everyone
Im missing a relay that was not with the kit. Its all in the original instructions that i didnt have when i bought the shifter used.
here's the link http://www.bmracing.com/bmracing/ins...truction/8.pdf
its got the wiring diagrams, the relay numbers and everything. thx for all the help from everyone
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