Transmissions and Drivetrain Need help with your trans? Problems with your axle?

anyone do a rear swap in their garage/driveway?

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Old Mar 5, 2001 | 10:00 AM
  #1  
black84ta's Avatar
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From: katy, tx
anyone do a rear swap in their garage/driveway?

how hard was it? need any special tools?
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Old Mar 5, 2001 | 12:18 PM
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Yes. More times than I care to remember. Just last week I swapped a 3.27 9-bolt for my noisy 3.45 9-bolt. No special tools required. Unless a floor jack, jack stands, screwdriver, metric & std. wrenches, adjustable wrench, C-Clamp, and a socket set are considered "special" tools. If you have an air compressor and an air gun it will help. Also a one person brake line bleeding tool. Or you will have to have help to bleed the brakes when you're done. Good luck, Lon.

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Old Mar 5, 2001 | 01:30 PM
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From: katy, tx
cool, i have all those tools. thanks.
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Old Mar 5, 2001 | 02:24 PM
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From: Southern MD, USA
It's pretty easy actually. I did it by myself in 3 hours because I have no friends

------------------
88 firebird formula
350 Vortec TBI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
SIX-speed
open 3.73's
2 1/4 stock catback
I love pissing those LS1's off
My Formula

All your base are belong to us.
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Old Mar 5, 2001 | 06:32 PM
  #5  
84FTA's Avatar
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From: Youngstown, Ohio, USA
Yeah. Not that hard. I also lack friends and unfortunetly had to do it in my driveway.

------------------
1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 Trans Am T-tops
4-bolt main 350, performer intake, headers, Holley 650, T-5, hayes clutch, dual elec. fans and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration
13.98 @ 101
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Old Mar 6, 2001 | 10:56 AM
  #6  
TomP's Avatar
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I did mine in my garage... cake. Here's a "fun" tip I forgot about- when you're about to pull the axle from underneath the car, put the tires back onto it, and just roll the axle away. I was balancing it on the hydraulic jack, and then carried it to my backyard. It was only after I carried the replacement axle to the garage that I remembered the "axle on wheels" trick


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
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Old Mar 6, 2001 | 11:03 AM
  #7  
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From: vancouver,usa
well i think i need a new pinion shaft or bearing.... with the axels out and the new u joints in it still makes some clunking sound.. the driveshaft is balanced, the spider gears look ok... i have heard that the ring gear must come out first to take out the pinion??? also need a seal.. cause its leaking a bit.............john
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Old Mar 6, 2001 | 11:42 AM
  #8  
rusty Z's Avatar
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From: New York
I just did a complete rear end swap last weekend with a few friends. We changed it over to new lakewood control arms, new poly endlinks and bushings and new shocks. The whole assembly process took us @ 5 1/2 hours.
We also took our time so that we would only do it once!

------------------
'85 Z28 Copper/ Gold, LG4 Auto
dual snorkel w/ ram air, Accel Cap Rotor and 8MM wires, Edelbrock Headers, Catco Cat, Flowmaster 80 series, 3:23 rear
American Racing Wheels.
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Old Mar 6, 2001 | 02:58 PM
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From: FT. Belvoir, VA
Yeah,it's pretty easy.I did mine by myself in about 3hours.That included the 15 minutes of cursing when the endlink bolt broke and i busted my knuckles.Learned my lesson, the second one i broke off with a cheater bar.I already had new poly endlinks for it so no big deal.

------------------
92RS,POLO GREEN
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Old Mar 6, 2001 | 03:37 PM
  #10  
merf23's Avatar
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From: waterford, CT 06385
Its an easy swap, but check the brake line first. I put a 9bolt in which had SAE flares and the OEM had ISO flares (or perhaps the other way around...it was several years ago).
I ended up taking the fittings off the old rear, installing them on the new one and re-flaring the lines to match the car. No big deal, but it ended up taking a lot more time than i had anticipated.

------------------
1984 Z28 (L69) monochrome tangerine orange with IROC decals and hood
1987 IROC wheels with Goodyear GSC's
305 from 87 IROC with 1994 LT1 cam (203/208 .450/.460")
performer intake with holley 600 (#1850)
Qjet is in the works
dynomax cat-back
non WC T-5 with 0.73 5th
3.27 nine-bolt
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Old Mar 7, 2001 | 10:20 AM
  #11  
TomP's Avatar
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Yeah.. GM used double-flare SAE fittings in 82-83, and ISO "bubble" flare metric fittings from 84-up.

When I was doing brake work, I found the ISO bubble flared lines at Pep Boys, in their brake line section, under "foreign cars".


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
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Old Mar 7, 2001 | 10:04 PM
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Done it twice in last six months, mostly by myself.

If you have brake line mismatch, just change the wheel cylinders to the year of your car. They are the same outside, just different fitting type. Cheap.

------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, TBD heads ported & polished, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.
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