if i were to use the foot break to load the 3200 stall. what rpm might the car be able to hold just before the tires break loose. Sorry for the stupid questions. Also what is a fair price or how many hours in the transmission shop would it be for a converter swap??

Depends on a lot of factors such as power the engine actually produces, the torque multiplier inside the converter, gear ratio in the tranny and diff, vehicle weight, conditions of the tires and the track surface, brake pressure holding the brakes, etc.

Ballpark guess, it's say 2500-2800 rpm.

Before you do a torque converter swap, what camshaft will you be using with it?

This post is part of another post under street racing... It would be nice to hang with a LS1... My question did not get completely answered so i reposted it hear.

So... my plans are to build a 383 in the next few years i would use something like an lt4 hot cam or something from comp cams. Not really sure at this point. The reason im thinking about a converter is it was suggested in the other post... But im more likley to have a converter installed at the same time as the motor... rather than with a stock internals.

But you have answered my question about converters. Ive never been in many cars with a higher then normal stall. I was just wondering about manners. thanks bud!

Without knowing the advertised duration of the cam, I can recommend a converter stall speed.

My converter stalls at 6000 on the transbrake. I can foot brake it to around 4500. My car idles at 1000 rpm and will just barely roll forward at an idle when I release the brake. With a higher stall converter, the car will still drive around fine but at lower rpms, the converter needs to slip and this creates a lot of heat. Quickly stabbing the throttle will bring the converter up to it's stall speed to move it into the cam's powerband quicker.

The disadvantage to a higher stall on the street is that the engine will operate at a higher rpm which will burn more fuel and you need to install a big tranny cooler to keep the heat down.

wow you guys have some serious machines!
This gives me a real good idea of what to expect out on the streets. For now ive decided to hold off on the converter swap. It also makes me want to select a more conservative converter.
Good advice! Ill repost when i get closer to building a motor.
Thanks!

I have a TCS 3200-3500 stall.
I have et streets.
At the track I can foot brake the car till about 2000rpm before the tires are breaking loose.
Although I have the factory suspension and brakes.

I have a 2900 RPM stall with 3.27 Gears W/ Radials and I can footbrake to 2800 RPMs on the street. Hmmm

As usual, Stephen is right on. There are many factors that dictate what rpm will cause the tires to break loose. As far as foot brake vs converter is concerned, it namely comes down to your brakes ability to hold the tires. After you lift off the brakes, now the entire combination and tune dictate the tire's ability to stay "hooked".

A 3200 stall converter with a stock engine would run like crap. The converter would barely be past it's stall speed and you'd already be out of rpm. It would be very in-efficient.

Im running a TH350 with a 3500 stall. The tires are 26 x 8.5 Hoosier QTP's with 3.73 gears. It holds at 2800 with the brakes, but flashes to 3500-3700 just off idle. Im running the Comp xr282hr cam.

i see what your saying about the running like crap part. ive decided to hold off on the converter swap. Right now its just a mild street car. The last thing i want is to start throwing mismatched parts on the car. Horse before the carriage, lol.
Thanks for the replys all.