Lets test rear ends with the car jacked up. My old car I can turn the rear tire and the other tire spins the OPPOSITE way, that's a open rear. No problem.

My Camaro I can turn the rear tire and the other tire spins the SAME direction, that's a Posi(linited slip). No problem.

Here's the problem:
My friends Camaro I can turn the rear tire and the other tire does NOTHING. It is supposed to be a factory posi and he swears it was re-built by a very good professional a short time ago. Also after a 20 minuite drive, the rear pumpkin is too hot to touch.
Does this make sense? Has anyone ever seen the other tire sit still? Is his posi shot? It does still leave two tire burnouts though.

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86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2's, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine Belt Setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex springs, 16" IROC Rims, 36mm/24mm Sway Bars, Global West Steering Brace. Hotchkis Rear LCA's,Panhard Bar and SFC's.
My Camaro Project

 

Sounds to me like he's either low on fluid or didn't put the "special" additive for the limited slip. Does he here a "clicking sound" when he goes around a corner?

I would rate his rear end as "going".

 

He's not low on fluid, I checked myself. Also no clicking around corners.

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86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2's, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine Belt Setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex springs, 16" IROC Rims, 36mm/24mm Sway Bars, Global West Steering Brace. Hotchkis Rear LCA's,Panhard Bar and SFC's.
My Camaro Project

 

What's happening with the driveshaft during these "tests"? An open rear may turn the driveshaft if in neutral instead of the other wheel. Did you try this with the tranny in gear (manual) or park (auto)? If a posi, neither wheel should turn (without a good amount of torque, anyway).

As for the rear getting hot after 20 minutes of driving, I've seen synthetic lube lower the temp in a tow truck. If his fluid isn't keeping the pumpkin cool enough to touch, I'd suggest a different type of fluid. Or, his "professional" needs retraining.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, TBD heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

[This message has been edited by five7kid (edited March 15, 2001).]

 

What does Bernard have to say about this? I would think Bernard would be the best person to ask. Let me know when you find out.

The clicking sound generally is an indication of the "special additive" missing. But a hot pumpkin indicates heavy slipping with improper lubrication IMO.

 

Yeah, I got involved, he posted this on my board. Personally, I think the rearend was OK at one time, but driveshaft being out of balance or whatever caused the driveline vibration (I don't know if this was mentioned here) I think caused the pinion bearing to go bad.

This is just a theory, and I hope its not what happened, but I noticed you said in another post that you put YOUR driveshaft in Keiths car and the vibration went away, so obviously the shaft is bad. Well, I know he has had this vibration for awhile, and the constant vibration probably killed the pinion bearins, and one may have seized on the pinion and has become "spun" like a rod bearing. This would explain the excessive heat. The "pumpkin" will be WARM, but should NOT be to hot to touch, something is really wrong. I hope you can pull the cover off and maybe prove me wrong.

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I agree that the pumpkin should never ever get that hot. you need to check the ring and pinion pattern. or the bearing were installed with too much load. either way some thing is wrong.

 

Unless he had it just rebuilt. They run real hot when 'new' (for a couple 100 miles). Mine was too hot to touch when rebuilt (thats what the 10 minutes driving/30 minute cooldown procedure is for)

Runs cooler now, but I still can't hold my hand on it for more than 10 seconds after a long hard drive. Has 13,000 miles on it, so it's probably normal. Unless it's glowing or something.....

Maybe a synthetic will cool it down some... Or friction modifier.



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'88 Camaro RS 2.8L
'88 Formula 350 (Too many mods to list...)

 

The pumpkin is so hot after even a 20 min. drive I can't even hold my hand on it for 3 seconds. That hot.
Second, he said it was re-build 5 years ago and it has always been very hot to the touch.
Third, yes he did have a vibration problem for a while. We swapped driveshafts and the vibs went away. I don't know if it's related but I had to bring it up.

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86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2's, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine Belt Setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex springs, 16" IROC Rims, 36mm/24mm Sway Bars, Global West Steering Brace. Hotchkis Rear LCA's,Panhard Bar and SFC's.
My Camaro Project

 

I have never heard the cool down time. if that was true how come all the new s-10s don't get hot? or the new siverodos. mines been rebuilt and does't get hot at all if I really beat on it it may get worm but, never hot. if your diff got that hot don't you think the oil would start breaking down.