Any tips on how to install the GM transmission repair kit that yets the tranny shift into 4th gear at wide open throttle?

 

It's not really a big hassle once the valve body comes down. Common misconceptions/confusion is created by thinking the valve goes in the TV Plunger hole (Where the cable presses on). It doesn't go there, but 2 holes down I think. You can easily find the right one by looking at the end of the aluminum sleeve (The stocker looks the same with the half circle on it) Rub a little ATF on the valve and sleeve and replace the stock parts.

When you go to change the tv boost valve (In the pump. After removing the snap ring all the junk (couple valves and a spring) may all come falling out making it difficult to remember how they are put in there.



Ignore the little filter on top. The pic might help you if you get in a bind.


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'88 Camaro RS 2.8L
'88 Formula 350 (Too many mods to list...)

 

How to I get to where your instructions begin? I have no idea where to even start once I take off the pan.

 

You'll need to:

1. Remove the filter
2. Disconnect the wiring and move it out of the way of the valvebody.
3. Remove all the bolts except the center one on the cast iron (large) valvebody (10mm bolts)
4. On post 87 1/2 trannys remove the metal tube that runs from the pump to the back.
5. Lower the valvebody down (The seperator plate will stay from the other plates/valvebody and accumulators still bolted on holding it. Lower it straight down because there's check ***** in there and you need to remember where they go. There's pictures around if you drop them but I don't have them handy, but lowering it straight down, they should stay put. Take them out and put them somewhere where they won't be lost. When you get the kit from GM you will see better what I'm talking about. By looking at the solid end of the aluminum sleeve look around the valvebody for the right spot to put it (It has a half-circle pattern on it)
6. Remove the roll pin that holds the sleeve in and pull it out (It may be tight)
7. Remove only the sleeve, spring and valve.
8. Put the new spring into the new sleeve, then install the new valve into the sleve making sure the pin fits into the spring.
9. Install the sleeve so the notch on the side lines up with the roll pin.
10. Install the roll pin. Put everything back together. Don't forget the checkballs. If you damaged the gasket put a new one in there, but I usually get away with re-using them. Torque the bolts evenly starting from the center out.


Now the tv boost valve is in the pump located in a hole next to where the filter goes (Toward the passenger side) and it's retained by an internal snap ring.

1. Remove the snap-ring
2. The valve and a whole bunch of stuff will come out (In the picture) You will be replacing the first two parts under the snapring (on the right of the pic) Everything has to go back in there in the right order/direction (left to right) and re-install the snapring. Press on the center of the valve to make sure it's springy and snaps back (It really shouldn't move much (about 1/16") but it should move some)

Button everything up and install a fresh filter. Get the fluid level back up and it should be good to go!

 

I would first think about doing this because you may end up with the same problem that this guy has:
https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/002474.html

 

Joel,

Thank you very much for helping out with this. You sound very knowledgeable. Do you repair trannys for a living or are you just a diehard wrench?

Also, how long would you guesstimate this would take on a lift. My buddy owns a shop so I will get some experienced hands doing this but it is nice to know what we are getting into before we start. My pan gasket is very leaky right now. Since I have to take the pan off anyway, I figured I would do this mod. Any other mods to consider while the pan is off?

 

I rebuild sometimes in my spare time (in the winter)

It really shouldn't take too long. If I were to do it I could get it done in around 45 minutes taking my time. But then again I know exactly what I'm going after and what tools will be needed. Some cheap snapring pliers won't reach deep enough in there to get at the snapring. Sometimes a pick kit makes it easier.

There are many other mods you can do like drilling holes in the plate larger, blocking the line bias valve solid, grinding the middle land off the pr valve, removing the spring off the mtv shift valve..........


All this will probably get you more confused and I have pics of this stuff, but I don't have them uploaded yet (because of photopoint going to start charging I have to get a fresh account somewhere else)

All these other mods do help, but will not nessasarily make too much of a difference.

The corvette servo would be a cool addition though, but may require unbolting the trans from the crossmember and prying it over to get everything in there. http://www.sethirdgen.org/tech/servo.htm will help. The servo isn't much at http://www.hptransparts.com but it doesn't include the red and blue seals and i'm not sure of the PN's for them since I usually do this mod on a rebuild and they come in the complete gasket kit. This mod will improve the 1-2 shift dramatically and will decrease band slippage/extend life. That place has the whole seal kit for pretty cheap (to get the 2 seals missing) but maybe if you leave feedback he could get you just the 2 seals you need (servo housing and cover)

Hope this helps.


[This message has been edited by JoelOl75 (edited April 16, 2001).]