I want to know exactly how to do this, exactly. Its leaking and I will need a new 1 but I don't want to pay the $$$$. If some1 can give me a step by step or directions, it would be really cool!! Thanks guys!!

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89 RS

Looking For:
87 IROC-Z28 350 TPI

You have to pull the tranny w/torque convertor. Those details are in a Haynes manual (or is that really what you wanted?). Rent a tranny jack for the job.

After the tranny is out, pull off the torque convertor. Remove the old seal with a pry bar or large screwdriver. Carefully install the new seal with a hammer, going around the circumference evenly until the seal is flush with the pump housing. Reinstall the convertor, being sure that the TC slots and pump tangs are engaged, reinstall the tranny.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlock header mufflers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1/94.6 @ 5800' Bandimere.

[This message has been edited by five7kid (edited May 08, 2001).]

Be sure to clean the outside of the seal well and the bore with thinner and use red lock tite on the outside of the seal.

700R4's are well know for building pressure and popping the seal out.

Guys, when I said step by step, I really meant step by step!! I havent't worked on something thats this involved with transmissions like this. I need some1 that really knows there stuff to explain everything and I will probably be able to do it.

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89 RS

Looking For:
87 IROC-Z28 350 TPI

Get a shop manual and read up. It will have pictures to help understand what they're talking about. We could only give you words.

I will tell youin words but 57 kid id right. you should look at a shop manual.
I have done this plenty of times to know what I am doing.
1) Drain the fluid by unbolting the back half of the pan bolts (13mm) and letting it drain. Then unbolt the rest of it and carefully lower it and dump it out. Put the pan back on. You will get dirty doing this.
2) remove the Inspection cover bolts. There are 6 and they are located on the front of the trans. (15mm)
3) Next using a flywheel turner unbolt the converter bolts. (15mm again)
4) Disconnect the shift linkage (Be sure it is in park first) (13mm)
5) NOw you will remove the driveshaft but you have to shift the trans into nuetral so you can get the other bolts where it connect to the yoke coming out of the rear diff.
5) Careful taking the driveshaft. You don't want to hurt the u joints.
6) Remove the TV cable from the carb or throttle body
7) disconnect the speedometer cable on the D/S of the trans near the tailshaft.
8) get your trans jack ready and support the pan. there are four bolts on the crossmember and one on the mount. take the nut off of the mount and thern the four 15mm bolts off of the crossmember.
9) Be careful not to hurt rthe distributor when you do this. Some manuals say to remove it but I have never hurt it. You are going to lower the trans a little so you can get the the bell housing bolts and the cooling lines. Use flare nut wrenhes for the cooling lines or else you will round them off. Now use an extension a .5' wratchet and a 18mm socket. there are 6 bolts on a V6 and 8 (i think) on a V8.
10) there are two bushings that come out of the block and align the trans. that is the only thing holding the thing in besides the jack. pull the jack back to get the trans away from the engine. Now lower it and take the torque converter out to get to the seal.

pretty good explaination...except the bellhousing bolts are 9/16, the pan bolts are 1/2 and the inspection cover bolts i think are 10mm. no offense to you but your sizes are a little big lol and just make sure you have the wheels chocked when you are shifting the trans/removing the drive shaft. I had my car up on ramps one day and didnt have the back wheels chocked. went to disconnect the shifter cable, and when I turned the wrench, the trans shifted out of park. w/o even stpopping to think I jumped out from under that car in about a half second flat lol thank god it didnt start rolling because that probably wouldnt have been quick enough!

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85 Z28- 350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake, Edelbrock 600 cfm carb and Edelbrock cat back, Summit headers and vette servo
-JVC, Eclipse, Pioneer, MTX, Phoenix Gold, Planet Audio

I think his sizes are correct for a v-6 car. Some cars have the 15mm bolts on the inspection cover. The 13mm and 1/2" sockets are close enough to use either on something that is under a low torque like the trans pan bolts. I use whichever I grab first!

One last thing, I reccomend putting the car up on jackstands on all 4 corners, unless you have access to a shop that has a lift, etc....

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Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305 with 200,000 original miles!
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350 (ZZ430)
using primarily GMPP parts.
Short block sitting on a stand. (Man, those Fast-Burn heads sitting on it look good!)

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

ASE Certified Master Tech