Like what happens? I have a lock--up kit and the tranny guy swears up and down that he hooked it up right but the indicator never says its locked. I got the one from B&M that has an adjustment on it. I am just curious as to how do you know when it is locked up?

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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

 

It should lock up at between 40-50MPH while crusing, if you want to test it cruise at about 45 and touch the brake pedal just enough to light up the brakelights but not enough to start slowing the car. Watch the tach, it should rise 200-500RPM and go back down (lockup again) when you release the pedal- it may take a few seconds.

The signal for lockup is sent by the ECM when the car is warm and crusing, the valvebody sends hydraulic pressure for lockup in any gear after 2nd, the brake switch (when working properly) interrupts the electrical signal from the ECM (or in some cases sends an unlock signal to the ECM).

I'm not sure exactly how your aftermarket lockup switch works.

Some are a simple on/off- sending a signal to the lockup solenoid constantly and letting the valvebody lockup the converter in every gear (other than first and rev.) all the time.

Others splice into the brake light sw. and unlock the converter when you hit the brakes but work like the on/off sw otherwise.

And some of them use a signal from the VSS/speedo cable and brake sw. and work just like the factory ECM.

If the brake tap doesn't work, try crusing in OD with the switch off and then turn it on, the RPM should drop and it should feel like you just shifted into another gear.

If these things don't work, make sure you check your tranny fluid, if its not clear and red (ie: brown, tan, smells burnt) then either you've got a wiring problem, the valvebody is messed up, or the converter is bad.

WARNING! 700R4s WILL BURN UP QUICKLY WITHOUT A FUNCTIONING LOCK-UP!


Good Luck,
John

 

well the kit did come with a speed sensor that interupts the speedo cable. I don't know what it wires to underneath the car but the tranny guy swears he hooked it up right. So next week we are going to get it on the lift and make sure it is wired properly.

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I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

 

On all 3 vehicles we have with OD automatics and tachometers you can see about a 200 rpm drop shortly after the transmission shifts into OD. You'll see a bigger drop in rpm going from 3rd to 4th, and after a few seconds you see the 200 rpm drop when the clutch locks up. On my 86 IROC I also can feel the clutch unlock when you let up on the gas and then hit the brake (I never payed any attention to the rpm, but I can feel it when the transmission stops holding the car back with my foot off the gas)pedal. Pressing the brake pedal disengages the clutch just before you feel true braking action.

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Z's r Best

 

the lock-up kit comes with an indicator that tells you when it locks up and t never lights up. It always has the off light lit. this shop really sucks and I don't want to go back but I guess I have to. Thanks for the help.

------------------
I WOULD RATHER PUSH A CAMARO THAN DRIVE AN IMPORT

1983Z28 350w/ edelbrock performer RPM power package , dynomax shorty headers, 700R-4 with shift kit, 750cfm carb, edelbrock 3" exhaust system, ASCD SS hood, 16" IROC rims.

future mods:
completely done over suspension, black paint with flames, Hurst shifter, dakota digital gauge package, procharger supercharger.

 

one quick way to tell. get up to second gear, lock the converter with the switch and floor it for about 2 seconds. then let off the gas and see if the car deccelerates real fast. if it just slowly glides to a stop then your converter is not locked up. if it feels like a standard and drags as it is slowing down, then the converter is locked. hope this helps.

[This message has been edited by whiterocz (edited June 19, 2001).]