1994 bbody 4l60e
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: bflo ny
Car: 1992 camaro rs 25th aniversery
Engine: crapy 305 tbi
Transmission: blown 700r4
Axle/Gears: stock
1994 bbody 4l60e
ok been browsing thorugh forms and been lost ont his fact, one post says that there all direct swaps into my 1992 camaroe another says no there diffrent. ok so please want a strate answer to this i have everything from a 1994 roadmaster lt1 harness and 4l60e will it bolt in directly. Second the torque arm the roadmast doesnot have a torque arm so where the hell do i bolt the torque arm to? lol i know i sound stupid but im trying to figure this out what i have to do to put my new tranni and engine in also whats the best rear end to put in i dont understand to much about 10 bolts 12 bolts or 9 bolts
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From: Northern Utah
Car: seeking '90.5-'92 'bird hardtop
Engine: several
Transmission: none
Axle/Gears: none
Re: 1994 bbody 4l60e
The '94 trans and harness does you no good if you're not also using the '94 engine and computer. The torque arm isn't a problem, you just swap tailshaft housings. The best rear, if you wanna spend that kind of money, is a Strange S60, but it's far overkill for you. Second best is a toss-up between a 12 bolt or a 9 inch. Third would be the ultra rare Dana 44,. Well, Dana 44s aren't rare, but the version made for our cars is. That leaves the 9 bolt and the 10 bolt. In theory a 9 bolt is a little stronger. But the 10 bolt gives you more options for gearing and for different types of differentials.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 58
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From: bflo ny
Car: 1992 camaro rs 25th aniversery
Engine: crapy 305 tbi
Transmission: blown 700r4
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: 1994 bbody 4l60e
yeah i am using everything from the roadmaster so then i am all set just got to change the tail end of transmission thanks can u exsplain the diffrence in gears what it actualy does like what kind of power gain do i get?
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From: Northern Utah
Car: seeking '90.5-'92 'bird hardtop
Engine: several
Transmission: none
Axle/Gears: none
Re: 1994 bbody 4l60e
A stock '92 RS V8/automatic came with a 2.73:1 gear in a 7.625" 10-bolt with 28 spline axles. Will work for the '94 engine. As for changing gears, this has no affect on RWHP, but will affect both acceleration and gas mileage. Now, not all LT1s in the '94s were 350s, some were actually L99s. Externally identical, but smaller bore and stroke. A true LT1 will have had dual catalytic converters. For best acceleration, a 3.73:1 gear is it. A 4.10:1 gear is too much with that transmission, but a 3.73:1 is very fun. With it you should expect to average around 20 mpg hwy. A 3.42:1 gear should average around 23 mpg, and be slightly less fun, but a lot cheaper and easier to do. If 23 mpg just isn't good enough for you, then just plan on adding a conversion-style locker to your stock rear end. To go to 3.42:1 gears is as easy as finding a '90-'92 V6 camaro or firebird, and taking the rear end out. Then do a conversion-style locker in that. But playing with the rear end can wait until you get the swap completed and running. You could attach your stock exhaust system, including manifolds to the LT1, but all of us will recommend you don't. Better to make a high-flowing exhaust system part of the swap. Headers, 3" cat, and cat-back. Your stock radiator should prove adequate. Use the motormounts off your 305. While you're doing the swap is the perfect time to upgrade the trans mount and the torque arm mount to the poly versions from EnergySuspension. You will need the trans mount. The stock one always fails eventually. And an LT1 is an event. Also, this is the best time, if you're going to do it, to do the following:install front lowering springs, replace front control arm bushings (with poly from ES), replace rotten rubber motor mounts (with poly from ES) install a looser, lockup-style torque converter for better acceleration (2400 stall if planning on 3.42:1 or 3.73:1)(the lockup keeps it from hurting your gas mileage on the highway). Time to make some decisions, buy some parts, and get started. Tim
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: bflo ny
Car: 1992 camaro rs 25th aniversery
Engine: crapy 305 tbi
Transmission: blown 700r4
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: 1994 bbody 4l60e
no im 100% SURE I HAVE A LT1 I CHECKED THE VIN BEFORE PULLING AND YES HAD TWO CATS . trust me i wouldnt waste my time pulling a l99 i have seent hem they are alot smaller compared to the lt1 well not alot but enough. while i ahve the lt1 out iw ant to redo my heads going to go to gm's special lt4 heads that will fit my lt1 and planning to do cam and remove the air conditioner as long as put all new parts basicaly over hual and advance the lt1 hope to get up to 400hp when done. the car its self need some work i plan on redoing body and suspension parts while my car is all apart. thank you much for advice seeing i made the first step got my new engie and transmission next is pulling the 305tbi and the old 700r4 and then selling those to put towards the body work and restoration thanks a million i love this site and i hope to one day have my camaro look as nice as some of the other ones i have seen, its sad to see them in junkyards thirdgens are an amazing bodystyle
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From: Northern Utah
Car: seeking '90.5-'92 'bird hardtop
Engine: several
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Axle/Gears: none
Re: 1994 bbody 4l60e
That changes things. First, unless you already have the LT4 heads, reconsider. Did you find a great price on a pair? Next. I understand wanting aluminum heads, but stock, unported LT1 heads, whether iron or aluminum, with GM's HOT cam, are good enough to get you 400 horses. Then, it's easy to find used aluminum LT1 heads for a few hunderd dollars, and with good porting, can far outflow LT4 heads, still for less money, and with the ports still being under the 195cc of the LT4s. a 180cc port is plenty big for a 350 to pull 6500 rpm, if the flow is there. Now, if you change the LT1's cam or heads (or all 3), 2.73:1 gears won't work. Please don't even try it, you'll hate it. So, good luck!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 58
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From: bflo ny
Car: 1992 camaro rs 25th aniversery
Engine: crapy 305 tbi
Transmission: blown 700r4
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: 1994 bbody 4l60e
what would lt 4 heads produce then, the ones i found are from gm directly made for replacing the lt1 castiron heads, originaly i was going to leave the lt1 head iron but after realizing the lt4 have the same flow just about and are stronger and can get a better cam i wanted to make that move eather way though i also have to find a place that reprograms pcms im think its a pcm but it has for connectors make me beleave its an ecm. to be strate foward im an entry level auto mechanic goignt o school for it and work at my budies shop so im pretty new to a lot of stuff like how changing cam effect preformance, I am not afraid to admit that i have a lot to learn and i want to thanks for your help
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Posts: 6,319
Likes: 19
From: Northern Utah
Car: seeking '90.5-'92 'bird hardtop
Engine: several
Transmission: none
Axle/Gears: none
Re: 1994 bbody 4l60e
Lemme put it this way. The LT1 heads, both iron and aluminum, have intake ports that measure 170 cubic centimeters. The LT4 ports measure 195 cubic centimeters. When heads are ported, it tends to make the intake ports a bit larger. a pretty good 170 becomes a really great 180, that will outflow a pretty good 195. And the smaller the port, the better the velocity. High flow and high velocity, together, are the ideal. In this case, that means a properly ported 170 head is better than a so-so 195. more cc isn't necessarily better, particularly on your LT1. a 180 is plenty for getting you power up to 6500 rpm. The LT4 heads are just leftovers from the 330-horse vette engine. They don't begin to compare to AFR's 195 heads for these engines. The LT4 heads are pretty close to the TFS LT1 heads. At first, best to just complete the swap and get it running and driving. Then do the exhaust system, then do the rear axle, then do the GM HOT cam with a tune, then do a torque converter, then do heads and Edelbrock's intake, then another tune. At this point you should be running low 12s with ease, low 11s with nitrous and drag slicks. You won't run low 11s very long without killing the rear axle, so then it'll be time to upgrade that to a 12-bolt or 9-inch. Then you'll want to go through the short block, adding a forged 4340 steel crank to make it a 383, so you can break into the tens. Welcome to the hobby? Naw, it's a way of life. Enjoy!
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