Put in Stop Leak, still leaking, what should I do??
#1
Put in Stop Leak, still leaking, what should I do??
Should I leave it in there or change the fluid and filter, its been in there for like a week?? Also, if any1 can precisly explain in detail how to change a rear seal, I would greatly appreciate it, I haven't messed with that stuff before but have the tools and can follow good instructions.
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89 RS
STILL Looking For:
An 87 IROC-Z28 350 TPI
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89 RS
STILL Looking For:
An 87 IROC-Z28 350 TPI
#3
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
If you have a Pep Boys nearby, (other stores might sell 'em too), look for the Haynes "GM Transmission Overhaul" book. It's blue, and costs a bit more than their regular manuals.
If you can't find the http://www.haynes.com stuff, check with http://www.northernautoparts.com for an ATSG book.
But it's as basic as ProBuilt says... you'll have to remove the driveshaft. Do that at the axle. There's four bolts (11mm?) holding the rear U-joint together. Before you remove the bolts, take a hammer & punch (or white-out, it's safer) and mark one side of the u-joint and the same side of the mating (axle) pinion yoke. This way you ensure that you put the driveshaft on exactly as it came off. Don't use the hammer/punch on a u-joint bearing cap, mark something substantial. (That's why white-out is safer). Stick a big screwdriver thru the u-joint to keep it from spinning as you undo the bolts.
Clean off the driveshaft flange where it enters the transmission tailshaft with a rag. Push the driveshaft into (towards) the transmission while holding the rear u-joint. The rear of the driveshaft will drop to the ground- don't let it hit! Lay the u-joint on a block of wood if you have to. On my car, I had to use a pry bar to push the d-shaft forward. I put the pry bar between the pinion yoke's flange and rear u-joint. (Don't put it between the rear u-joint and driveshaft!)
Pull the driveshaft out of the transmission, and be ready to catch the front of the d-shaft before it drops to the floor.
Then, you drain the trans, remove the tailshaft, knock out the old stuff, knock in the new stuff, etc...
Be sure to coat the trans end of the driveshaft with trans fluid before sliding it into the new rear seal; otherwise you could hurt the seal.
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
[This message has been edited by TomP (edited October 18, 2001).]
If you can't find the http://www.haynes.com stuff, check with http://www.northernautoparts.com for an ATSG book.
But it's as basic as ProBuilt says... you'll have to remove the driveshaft. Do that at the axle. There's four bolts (11mm?) holding the rear U-joint together. Before you remove the bolts, take a hammer & punch (or white-out, it's safer) and mark one side of the u-joint and the same side of the mating (axle) pinion yoke. This way you ensure that you put the driveshaft on exactly as it came off. Don't use the hammer/punch on a u-joint bearing cap, mark something substantial. (That's why white-out is safer). Stick a big screwdriver thru the u-joint to keep it from spinning as you undo the bolts.
Clean off the driveshaft flange where it enters the transmission tailshaft with a rag. Push the driveshaft into (towards) the transmission while holding the rear u-joint. The rear of the driveshaft will drop to the ground- don't let it hit! Lay the u-joint on a block of wood if you have to. On my car, I had to use a pry bar to push the d-shaft forward. I put the pry bar between the pinion yoke's flange and rear u-joint. (Don't put it between the rear u-joint and driveshaft!)
Pull the driveshaft out of the transmission, and be ready to catch the front of the d-shaft before it drops to the floor.
Then, you drain the trans, remove the tailshaft, knock out the old stuff, knock in the new stuff, etc...
Be sure to coat the trans end of the driveshaft with trans fluid before sliding it into the new rear seal; otherwise you could hurt the seal.
------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)
[This message has been edited by TomP (edited October 18, 2001).]
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