How much hp will the stock ring gear handle?? I have a new engine going into my Z, ZZ3 cam, afr heads, 9.5\1 compression, paxton sn2000m blower giving 8lbs of boost. I was told by AFR that my combo will yeild 430-450 hp at the crank without the supercharger and an additional 25% more hp with the blower. I was wondering if my stock rear end will be able to handle the hp? I have the 3.23 rear end gears?

 

A stock engine can break a ring and pinion. It depends how much torque is applied to it. Since very few automatic trannys in street cars have trans brakes I'll skip that. Having a manual transmission and doing high rpm clutch drops will shock the ring and pinion enough that it can break.

If the differential is strengthened to take more abuse the ring and pinion can survive longer than a stock differential.

My 7 5/8" ring gear 10 bolt has been beefed up and is still surviving. It's taken more abuse than a typical street car will ever do to it.

Any third gen that puts out more than 400 hp should get rid of the 10 bolt and upgrade to a 9" or 12 bolt.

Don't expect your tranny to last long either.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block (times are for the current engine)

Best ET on a time slip: 11.447 altitude corrected to 10.99
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.42 altitude corrected to 124.86
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 493
Best 60 foot: 1.586

Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

So what can I do to beef the rear end and transmission up? I have a tci transmission kit which is hardly noticable from stock, and i have ran Amsoil in the transmission the entire life of the car. Any suggestions?

 

the 700r4 stock will probley blow itself, if you have a 7,5 it **might** be allright, if its the 9bolt it will grenade itself, things to do if a 7,5 a auburn posi and some motov or richmond gears would be a good idea. and the trans i would have it taken to a local place and have them modify it to handle the power. also some non-greaseable u joints would be a good idea also.

 

The 10 bolt will grenade before the BW 9 bolt ever will. Craiger, it's more a matter of traction than horsepower. You could have 900hp with a stock 9-bolt and it will live for a long time with stock traction.

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1990 IROC 350
Mods: Too busy trying to make it run right to mod it.
Airfoil, Dynomax cat-back, MSD coil, 180 t-stat, Bald Eagle tires,
Hypertech fan switch, Accel 23# injectors, Holley module, ported plenum,
Ported Daytona Yellow stock base, Moroso valve covers, other stuff,
Streetdampr, Ruger P95DC, hot wife, new oil filter, !cats, !TBC, !AIR.
18.0 @ 85MPH since I'm one big-a$$ MF
"It's better to have and not need than to need and not have."

 

stephen, please tell me that your 10 bolt is behind that big block

 

NO WAY!! A 9 bolt will out last a 7.5 10 bolt anyday. The 9 bolt has 4 spider gears instead of 2. You can strengthen either rear end, but for similar mods, the 9 bolt is still stronger.

Miles

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88 427 Camaro
12.18 @ 113mph 1.75 60ft
Currently installing 3.73's into my 9 bolt (YES, it is a 9 bolt & YES they are 3.73's, not 3.70. I currently have 4.10 gear sets and new series 3 carriers in stock for 9 bolts )
www.koolmeister.com

 

JETHROIROC, I have spoohn lca's and plan to put a set of subframe connectors on. I also plan to put a set of Nitto 555R drag radials on. Do you think the Drag radials will be too much? And what about my 700R4? I have a TCI shift kit in it, runnig amsoil and change my tranny oil every 6 months. My shift kit is very mild. What do you think? I'm just a little worried because AFR rates my combo between 430-450 hp at the crank and then i have my supercharger which puts out 8lbs of boost. I'm prayin it will be able to handle the power?

 

in my opinion,i think you will be ok.it just depends on how hard you are gonna go on it launching,etc...if it blows up,then you can rebiuld it with something better.just feather it off the line until your extra money gets better!later

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"Let's get to it,well let's do it!"

 

If you ever get solid hookups, over time you'll blow something for sure with that combo and a blower.

With drag radials it will probably live for quite a while, and there's no use replacing the trans until it blows, but if you don't want to deal with tranny problems you could invest in one from probuilt.

I would beef up your rear the same way Stephen has and you'll probably be OK (I'm sure he'd be glad to discuss it). Or maybe you can find a BW 9 from a junkyard but that may be hard to come by.

If you bolt on slicks, be prepared for something to break (may want a driveshaft loop at this point too). Like HARDWORK said, it's all in the launch, but also for the trans, the amount of torque the car puts out.

I would just run it and see how it works out, if I added anything it would be a driveshaft loop for safety. When you get some more $$, invest in a tranny, cooler and good converter from probuilt. Hope this helps.

Wait a minute, I have a BW 9 and the service manual says it's a 3.23. Do you already have one?

[This message has been edited by JETHROIROC (edited October 29, 2001).]

 

I'm not sure what mine is? I'm going to check tomorrow. I already have a drive shaft loop. I am going to put some sub frames on next. I may stay with my comp ta's instead of the drag radials to prevent breakage. How much do ya want for the rear end?

 

Maybe it's time to invest in a car trailer and truck. I'm thinking of getting one when I build my 383. With your power, plan on breaking ****. And paying for tow bills will definately SUCK the big one.
Just a thought.

Brad...

 

You won't stick with crapy nitto drag radials.