originally posted by transfixleo:
I adjusted the cable this way, (and also every other way I could think of) but it's still too low line pressure/shift points. When I try to pull it any tighter it just clicks back to where it was before when I give it WOT. What's the deal? This is my new engine, and it's shifting like total poo. It won't ever kick back down either, unless I put the pedal all the way to the floor.

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91 Z28
Come see The Vicious...

I might add that it shifts at the correct rpm (about 5300) when I give it WOT. The tranny sat for about 3 months between engine swap. Also, is it possible that I routed the cable wrong somehow when I put the engine in? And on a further note, right now it has about 50% dexron and 50% type F. I know this is probably not good, but I'm converting back to dexron and haven't had a chance to get all the type F out.

[This message has been edited by ViciousZ (edited December 01, 2001).]

 

I assume you mean by "pulling it tighter" that you're depressing the D button, pulling the cable housing back a little, and driving it that way. Then, after you've floored it once, it's back where it was before you tried to "tighten" it.

Think about it - that's how it is "adjusted" per Leo's instructions.

If it seems to be shifting differently than it did with your stock engine, that's not too surprising. Very likely you've changed your power curve, so the power-to-TV cable position is not the same as it was before.

Explain what you mean by "too low line pressure/shift points".

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4, 2300 stall TC. Ported World 305 heads, Crane PowerMax 2050 cam. ZZ3/4 intake, oil pump, pan & baffle. Accel HEI SuperCoil & module. Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback w/dual-opposite Flowmaster 80. 2.93 limited slip. Spohn SFCs waiting to be installed. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily year-round driver. Best ET, speed TBD...
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7:1 forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 700 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).

 

I did change the power curve, but not that much. My cam (comp 304) puts the powerband around 1400-5400. I set it leo's way, but as soon as I let go of the button and cable it ratchets back a click. Although it did get better after I set it this way, it's still set too low. I'm saying this because it shifts too soon, the shift point doesn't go up when I give it more throttle, and if I shift it at the console, the shifts will be really sloppy, even at higher rpms. It also won't kick back down unless I put the pedal to the floor. Before I installed the engine, it would bark 1-2 at 3500. Don't get me wrong, the engine's got plenty of power, WOT is great. But everything else sucks.

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91 Z28
Come see The Vicious...

 

If you follow my method and the cable still moves at WOT, replace the cable. Next, did you change to a non-stock carb? The geometry must be correct for TV to work right. Third, get a gauge on it and report back with all readings at Idle, Fast Idle, and Fast Idle W/Cable pulled.

 

Transfixleo, I think you've just surpassed my technical knowledge of automatic transmissions. My arsenal of tools consists of a fuel pressure gauge, a compression gauge, a vacuum gauge, an oil pressure gauge, and a tire pressure gauge. I don't suppose any of these can check the pressure on the tranny? So what type of gauge am I supposed to use? And where do I hook it up? Fast idle means cracking the throttle? And pull the cable (not the plastic sheath)toward the front of the car, right?
Do I test this with the car in park?
I really didn't change anything on the engine, I kept the TPI setup. New motor mounts, but I don't think that'd make a difference.

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91 Z28
Come see The Vicious...

[This message has been edited by ViciousZ (edited December 02, 2001).]

 

You need a oil pressure gauge capable of at least 300 PSI. I would suggest the Snap-On gauge since the head won't blow off on you as the other types eventually do. If you are only going to do this one time, like on your car then I guess you can see if a 'normal' tranny gauge is available. You check it in every position from Park down to Man1. Fast Idle would be @1500 RPM. Yes, you would be pulling the actual cable that the linkage pulls on.

 

I just noticed that you said that the car DOES shift right at WOT. I was taking it that it wouldn't get that high. Are you trying to get later part throttle shifts? Firmer part throttle shifts? Please go into detail as to what you are after and what you have done to the tranny, if anything.

 

After I adjusted the cable your way it got a little better, but it feels like the tranny is slipping a little under normal accelleration, and when it shifts the shifts are really sloppy and mushy, it slips a teeny bit there, I can see the rpm jump about 100-200. Even if I hold it at the console and then shift at higher rpm the shifts are still soft. And it won't kick back down unless I put the pedal to the floor. I put in a B&M shiftkit (the cheap bangkit) about 2 1/2 years ago (I know, bad, but I didn't know that then) and a vette servo about 2 years ago. I had a daaco 2500 stall in it, but hated it and took it out when I put the new engine in. I replaced it with a factory stall, from the auto parts store, I don't know if it's new or reman. Also I previously was using type F, but changed back to dexron. Unfortunately I haven't had time to flush the system, so it's about 50-50 right now. I went from a 305 to a 355. The 355 isn't to extreme, it should still have a lot of low-end torque, but it doesn't, and it's hard to really judge the engine with the tranny acting up like this. Before I swapped the engine the tranny was fine, shifted plenty hard. So you see, there are a lot of factors here.

One more thing, someone suggested to me that it could have to do with the governor, that they're different between a 305 and a 350 tranny. What do you think?
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91 Z28
Come see The Vicious...

[This message has been edited by ViciousZ (edited December 03, 2001).]

 

Slipping and shift timing are two different areas. I would worry about the slipping first. Personally I would start with the TransGo Kit if the pan doesn't look too bad and see if now that the controls work right, if the frictions can hold. If not then it is time to drop it out and go through it. If it does then you can go on to the Governor and recalibrate that to get the proper shift timing to take advantage of what your engine is doing.

 

I've gotta do that; i think the ratchet on mine is worn out!

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

See!! See?? What did I tell ya???

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1987 GTA L98 MD8
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