I've checked the prices locally to see how much $ I'd have to fork out to have it rebuilt. Most everybody says $850-$1200. I found one guy that don't want to rebuild it, but wants to find out exactly what it is, but I want it rebuilt because it has 150,000 miles on it. It won't be probably but $500. I found a guy that says he'll rebuild it at home for $480, if I take it out and take it to him. That's a total rebuild, torque converter and everything, and a shift kit.

So my question is:

Is there anything I need to know about taking it out, and putting it back in?


I read something on this topic that someone said something has to line up, exactly where it was when you took it out.

Thanks.

------------------
2.8 Liter V6
No Current Mods

Third Generation Camaro Site

 

The things I pay special attention to when
I change out a transmission are:
1. That the fan and distributor cap don't
get damaged when the back of the engine is
lowered after the crossmember is removed.
2. I tie a piece of wire, etc, to the hood hinge and drop it down the dipstick tube so
I know exactly where the tube goes when the time comes to put it back in.
3. That the distance from the mounting tabs
on the converter to the face of the bellhousing is greater than the distance from
the rear of the engine block to where the
converter pads bolt to the flexplate. This
will ensure the converter is installed fully into the pump.
4. Think "SAFETY FIRST!"

 

About the biggest thing I get worried about, is that the converter is all the way in the front pump. If the fluid isn't in really good condition, you will want to flush your cooler lines. Replace the trans mount if it hasn't already been replaced recently, and I reccomend a poly mount like the Energy Suspension mount, and you may want to get eh torque tube mount while you're at it (they'r eboth pretty cheap!) It's a pretty good idea to also put the first quart or 2 of fluid in the converter before installing. While you have the driveshaft out, how are your u-joints? Good time to do that, too. You may also want to pull the flexplate and at least check, if not replace, the rear main engine oil seal. Takes about 5 minutes more! I know there are some other things that I'm missing, but the most important thing is to really look at everything !

Good luck!


------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305 with 209,000 original miles!
Dual electric fans (from a formula).
9 bolt posi disc rear with 3.27 gears.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
430 HP 350 (ZZ430) Coming soon! (Building it myself, so I don't get those AWESOME valve covers!)

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

ASE Certified Master Tech
+ L1 Advanced Engine Performance
+ X1 Undercar Specialist

And....A sig. that's getting way too long!

 

Is that guy pretty good with rebuilds? I have a friend who did my rebuild (he does them online).. His name is Drew and he can do rebuilds for about $350 on up... check out his site: http://www.netgearhead.com .. He does shift kits and gets the torque converters..all the same stuff. Basically you drop your tranny and ship it to him and he'll rebuild it for you. What he did with mine is a standard 700R4 rebuild and he also put in a B&M shift kit & torque converter.

------------------------<<<<<<
Corey Turner - 91 9C1 - Toledo, OH
http://www.coreyturner.com "Project Potent Rodent"
GM_TBI List Moderator

 

If you have a technical college in your area, sometimes the automotive students will rebuild your tranny or engine or rear end for the cost of parts, as part of their course. That's a mighty good deal, because they have pros for instructors who make sure they do it right