was wondering for them guys out there that did the t-56 swap was it really worth it, because im undecided if i want to do this first or upgrade the rear to a 12 bolt moser

 

I've had my T56 for almost 2yrs now and I love it. No regrets here. Dean

 

Never saw the point of two over drives but depending on the price you pay, it could be money wise.

If ya got a few Gs to drop on a trans, you can pick better.

 

No regrets, other than losing 0.5s from my Quarter Mile slip.. ;-) That's alot of driver and gear blame also.. The Stock T56 is still the easiest/cheapest route to a 500+ lb-ft trans, and the double-over drive allows you to gear down for racing and still drive it on the street/hwy getting to where you're going. Upgrading them to 700+ lb-ft just take a few $hundred more and some mech. skills, and replacement parts are easy to get. It works with stock components in most instances (flywheel, clutch, hydraulics, driveshaft, etc.). I've had mine for almost 4 years, never looked back. Added the Moser 12bolt shortly after..

 

sorry to kinda steal thread...but wanted to know why you think you lost 1/2 second going to t-56....did you go from auto??? is it worse gear ratios?? should have been same speed or faster I would of thought (less weight?? less rotating mass??)

 

As for the two overdrives, I'm getting 23/ 24 hiway MPG with a Ramjet 350 ,3:42 gears and it runs great. And no it probably won't out ET an auto at the strip, but it is still a great street trans.

 

Went from a built 700r4 w/4000 stall Vig and 3.73 Rear, to the T56 and 3.42 gears in the 12-bolt (Car is built for Road Racing and I needed to hit 150mph in 4th gear with the T56/12bolt combo) Dumping the clutch with the T56 is just too violent for me, I'll stick to the road courses..

 

I am considering putting in a t56 myself....what's the price range for an auto car swap??
also, I heard that the synchros wear out fast if you power shift, is that an easy fix/upgrade on synchros or is it an issue at all??

how hard was swap??

 

Full swap "kits" can be had for $1000-$1200 depending on your area and luck/persistence. Any transmission will wear out power shifting, some faster than others, but smooth street shifting and track power shifting will have trade-offs.. You can Pro-shift or Faceplate the T56 like other transmissions, but you still have to use the clutch and the gears will still eventually wear. http://www.libertysgears.com/faceplate.htm

The Swap is well documented, and can easily be done by most moderately mechanically-inclined folks..

 

well, I am most definetly mechanically inclined...just didn't know if there was a lot of custom fabrication invovled.....thanks for the info!! $1200 or so seems to be a lot cheaper than doing a tko 5spd swap.....which I want, but can't afford at this time. I'll look into finding a t-56 setup....

 

You have to keep your eye out for deals, and be prepared to jump and negotiate when you find something. I believe this "kit" went for $1200 last week:

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/pts/1521800925.html

It will give you an idea of what you need/get. Obviously you won't get a warranty or a new unit, but you can usually run most used T56s into the ground and save for a rebuilt later. (or learn how to rebuild them yourself. Lot's of DIY info out there on the T56s)

-------------------
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ild/index.html
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ion/index.html
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...ion/index.html
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...ild/index.html

Good forum write-ups with pics:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...-write-up.html
http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1877

Factory Service Manual:
http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English...ice_Manual.pdf

 

well, I know where a t-56 out of a '95 trans am...complete with everything included for $1200.......I should jump all over it.....do it first thing in morning!! he is parting out wrecked car....

 

Every car should have an OD gear but no need for 2 in a sports car, in a minivan; yes. 1 OD is plenty.

If ya need or like 2 ODs, your not driving it right


Dunno how price are around the US but here, $900 gets just the trans, no bell or other parts. All the parts for the swap $1500+


id go TKO first.
[Course id also go 200R4 over 700 first too if cash was no issue.]

If space is not an issue and you just gotta have a OD folks use a GearVendor OD unit.


If you got unlimited funds then you can just make shiet up and tell the CNC guy to make it.

But if its all coming cheapish and gonna fall into your driving style, id take a T56 over any auto trans.

 

well it's not that I need the sixth gear....I could care less really about that....it is the manual tranny I want.....my car is used for road course and an auto just plain sucks.....and there is nothing like rowing through some gears while cruisin' around......I don't have the 3k or so for the full swap kit from tko (which I'd love a tko tranny), I can get the whole setup for 1200, maybe even talk him down to 1000, for the whole setup....even if I spend 2grand, it's still cheaper that a tko....which the budget is tight right now....trying to do stuff to my camaro, and building an '86 mustang with a 327 tpi setup in it (taking all the money).....

 

I got mine from a member of TGo a month or so ago for 2k included everything and was built up. I can wait to get it in my car. Just waiting to get the tale housing back from a member on here which put a mech speedo gear in it. This summer is gonna be sick and finally gonna be able to have a stick as I hated the auto in mine. Just not a muscle car being auto

 

Definitely do the trans swap first unless your rear end is already broke.

I love the double OD. How else could I cruise below 2k rpm on the highway with a steep rear gear?

 

I've never had a T-56 in a third generation car, but I have had one in my 2002 Firehawk Trans-AM and I've currently got on in my 2005 GTO. As far as manual transmissions go, it's smooth yet firm shifting, and makes for a fun driving experience.

 

[quote=Gumby;4385149]Every car should have an OD gear but no need for 2 in a sports car, in a minivan; yes. 1 OD is plenty.

If ya need or like 2 ODs, your not driving it right
quote]

I would have to say that, in my opinion, this is a retarded statement.

Why not have 2 overdrive gears? Any car that is street driven, if the engine has the power should. With 3.42's in my TA I do 80 at about 1800 rpms in 6th. The second overdrive in a T56 is .5:1 To go from 4th gear 1:1 would be alot of RPM drop. Anything over 50 is a bit high for cruise rpm for 4th but to low for 6th. 5th gear is great for 50-60ish mph. Less rpm, less wear on the engine better gas mileage.

To the OP, If you are making good power and street drive/cruise your car then the T56 can be beat as far as manual's go. My TA has 382/374 rwhp/tq (440/431 hp/tq at the crank taking 15% drive train loss) and the trans is holding up great. Not the first choice for a drag race only trans, but manuals hardly are most drag racers first choice. From my understanding the T56 main down fail is it's shift fork, they get bent easily which causes it to be hard to shift and extra wear on the synchro's. Go with a steel shift fork and a good shifter and enjoy banging gears.

 

I'm actually the one that scored the $1200 swap off Craigslist! Guy lives 10 mins from me!!! Super deal, and came with everything! If you're running a tall gear like I am (4.56), the .5:1 6th gear will make the highway very doable. Here's the trans and parts:

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0388.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0387.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0386.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0385.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0384.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0383.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0382.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0381.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0380.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0379.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0378.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0377.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0376.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0375.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0374.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0373.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0372.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0371.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0370.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0369.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g1...e/DSCF0368.jpg

Also, here the other T56 swap setup I've got. Should give you some idea of what you'll need:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...-overview.html

 

I built and modified my t56 and have only one regret.

I wish like hell I'd done it 10 years ago.


Next up is a stronger rear to handle my new motor.

 

My 2 cents.

I had a 4th gen with a T56, and I had the pleasure of doing a clutch in one. I also had a ZF6 corvette, which uses the same style clutch.

For a street car, not sticky tires, it's a good trans. With a small cam near stock engine, you could even use 6th gear.


Some issues I have with it:

1) Pull style clutch is prone to slippage. Expect to spend tons of money on a 'bulletproof' twin disc if your making over 450 hp..

2) Won't work with 168 tooth flywheels, so if you have a 400 block you are
SOL.

3) Stock shifter is worse than a T5. You'll miss 3rd frequently. Hurst shifter is nice, but deletes reverse lockout..


In terms of durability, the trans itself should be fine in a typical 3300lbs thirdgen with slicks. It's the clutch (pull style rather than push style, limited pressure) that is an issue.

-- Joe

 

I never had a problem hitting 3rd gear in my T-56 equipped Firehawk, nor my 2005 GTO.

 

Nothing inherent in the pull-style, it's the Presure plate that's the main issue. Aftermarket never stepped up to make a stronger PP, so any clutch is limited by the LT4 (stronger than the LT1) Valeo PP.

Any 2pc RMS block will need a different FW. McLeod, among others, makes a 400 block (ext balance) 2pc RMS FW that fits the LT1-T56.

Any stock shifter sucks.. Rev. Lockout is built into the offset lever of the transmission and the trans tailhousing. Changing the shifter will not affect rev lockout in anyway.

Stock LTx clutches can handle 400lb-ft, and aftermarket discs and LT4 PPs can handle 600-700. If working above 700lb-ft, you can go to the dual-disc setup.

 

Well it's not so much stronger, it's the holding force. If the pressure plate had any more pressure the hydraulics wouldn't release it.

A 168 tooth won't fit in the stock bell housing. They make a aftermarket bell for $479 that will allow you to use a 168 tooth flywheel. The issue isn't 2pc vs 1pc, balance or not, it's the fact that most 400 blocks are not drilled for a 153 tooth starter..

Am I thinking of my ZF6 mike? I had a hurt or b&m in the '97 Z, which I thought deleted the reverse lockout. Now you have me second guessing myself.. Does the T56 have the ring to pull up to get it into reverse, or was that my ZF6?? Ugg I've had too many cars..

That's an ongoing debate. Lot of guys bracket racing with slicks have slippage issues, including the C4 boys. I had good luck with a dual friction made by scott @ fort wayne, but was only around a 450 foot lb motor.
Lot of guys are running twin dics once they hit bottom 11s/high 10s.


I think the T56 is a great trans btw.. Just want to point out the things I've noticed. If I had the choice, I'd probably buy one with the normal bell housing bolt pattern and run a lakewood bell with normal push style clutch.
I wouldn't mind another T56 car as a daily driver either.

I'll never buy another C4 though.. That ZF6 is absolute garbage.

-- Joe

 

so I did notice in summit that they offer a 153 tooth flywheel for 86 and up cars as well as a 168 tooth 86 and up.......both listed as 305/350 flywheels, but all f-body cars are the 153 due to the small bellhousings of transmissions......correct??? What does the 168 tooth fit....trucks??? I thought all small block chevy trannys will bolt up to any small block (same bolt pattern right).

 

Early fbodys, trucks, other cars got 168 tooth flywheels.

With the larger bell housing you can run a 11" or larger heavy duty clutch.

A 168 tooth flywheel will work with a 700R4 as far as I know, but not a T56, T5, etc.

-- Joe