I made this for myself, but thought It'd be helpful to post here for future reference. I'm sure guys like me are looking for this info but can't find it all in one place. Online170's thread is wonderful (in fact it's where I learned everything I needed to know about the swap), but I think this will help the less patient.........

Here's the cost and location of every possible T56 conversion part needed. This list is unique to my swap, but is just about anything I can think of. Sure there's many places to get the same part, but these are the cheapest I've found. Enjoy.

Trans (with shipping, pedals, lower boot, fork, and bellhousing bolts included) - $828
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/2009/091222_LT1T56/

Trans rebuild and shipping - TBD

Shifter (MGW, free christmas present) - $219
http://www.mgwltd.com/camaro_short_throw_shifter.shtml

Crossmember (Hawks for long headers) - $130
http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/tr...t566speed.aspx

Torque arm, relocation bracket, shaft loop (spohn) - $418.23
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...GM-F-Body.html

Other torque arm option (the one I'm using) Jegster Torque arm - $304.99
http://www.jegs.com/i/Jegster/550/40097/10002/-1


Speedometer (autometer 5889, craigslist super score) - $73
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugede...gid=2632&sid=7

Hydraulics (GM direct, christmas present) - $122
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...umber=12559912

Upper shifter boot (ebay) - $31
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

Harness (ebay) - $27
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

Shifter **** (hurst 1632006, ebay) - $15.69
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

Clutch disk (McLeod, Byunspeed w/ shipping) $172.89
http://www.byunspeed.com/product_inf...ducts_id=12415

Clutch PP, pilot bushing, alighment tool (LT4, Drualast, Autozone) - $176.39
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...dName=Duralast

Clutch PP bolts (Ace hardware, 2" long, 3/8", 16 threads per inch, grade 8) - 6 @ $.69 = $4.14

Starter (LT1 Jegs mini) - $139
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10001/10002/-1

Flywheel (Centerforce 700107, TGO classifieds) - $258
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTF-700107/

Flywheel bolts (APR, summit) - $11.95
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-200-2802/

Dakota SGI-5 rev C (from Dakota) Not needed if you get the Autometer Speedo I mentioned above - $79.95

Bellhousing (Bought on LS1 tech) $100

Pedal assembly (try to find here, scrap yard, ls1tech, ls1lt1.com)

Pedal harness (important to have a switch on your clutch pedal to prevent it from starting it in gear. Also, your reverse lockout will be wired here)

E-clip (to hold your clutch master rod to your clutch pedal) - Any hardware store sells these.

Clutch master cylinder u bolt (just buy 2 separate bolts if you can't find a u bolt. It's what I use and it works just fine. They're 5'16" or 3/8") Also available at any hardware store.

 

Dang that helps me ALOOOT!! thanks man

 

may i ask y a lt1 fly wheel willl not work with my 2 pc rear main ???? before i buy the on you have listed above...

 

It simply will not bolt up. and since these transmissions never came behind an early 2 piece RMS block you have to buy a special one. McLeod also makes one I believe as well as another company. I have both a stock and centerforce flywheel and am in the middle of the swap so I'll try and get some pics this weekend. The short answer is that it just won't bolt up. Good luck!

 

thanks for the quick reply!

 

What about the dust shield/inspection cover? I never see any mention of it in any of the swap threads..

 

Great point. the dust cover is GM part number 10241153. It's discontinued of course, but a search will yield results. Found em here, and on ebay. $24.99

 

How do you like the shifter? Its the cat's meow over on tech.

 

If that part number is correct it's the same as the inspection cover on a T5... Is that correct?

 

I didn't know that but it appears to be correct.

 

Here's a place that's selling them:

http://www.f2bkit.com/dust_cover.html

 

And then?

 

No and then.

 

Sorry man I was in the process of uploading some pics but I ended up crashing last night. I remember typing a reply, but maybe I forgot to actually post it! Anyway the shifter is awesome. Shortest throw, and best centering tension I've ever seen. They make 2 style handles too so be sure to get the right one for whatever shift **** you'll be using.

 

NP man. I know I've just flat out missed a post in the past, it happens, no biggie. I'm quite interested in revues of the shifter though. At double the price of most T56 shifters it should be awesome. If it is as great as people say then I dont have a problem with the price, but if is not the greatest shifter out there i'd be pissed if I paid the greatest amount for it

 

The hole in the center of the flywheel is a different size.

 

would the flywheel work if you had a one piece seal?

 

Nope, you need a 1-piece specific flywheel.

 

So either way ya can't use the lt1 flywheel?

 

No you can if you have a 1 piece block.

 

I have a stock lt1 flywheel off a 94 z28 on my 91 block that bolted up with no problems.

If you aren't going to be doing any heavy racing then I would suggest skipping the torque arm. There's no reason to replace it if it isn't broken.

 

for clarification: all '86-up SBCs (GenI as well as GenII/LTx) will have 1 piece rear main seal cranks, blocks and flywheels. Therefore, the LT1 T56 combo will bolt up to a GenI 1pc rms engine, but not a 2pc rms engine - that is, not without using a special flywheel.

 

Correct. Buying the special flywheel isn't that bad as long as you're patient.

 

I edited my sticky to include this info. Thanks for taking the time to look up the links.

 

Ok good thats what i thought, that'll save a chunk of money not having to buy that flywheel.

 

right on, they show up every now and then in various FS sections or on ebay.
the way i understood it, you only need that special flywheel and a standard LT1-style T56 clutch, right?

 

That's correct. Here's the best clutch combo to use:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...ns-please.html

 

i'm curious to see how your hawks cross member and spohn cross-member mounted TA turn out. I see its the TA for mounting to your own xmember or another one, it comes with the bracket to weld on. I just want to see how it turns out? good? bad? whats the bracket look like installed? I'll be wanting the same setup. thanks for all the info posted so far.

 

I've yet to fab up the TA relocation, but it's on my mind all the time. It'll take a little fab skills, but will work great I'm sure. Also have to fab up the driveshaft loop too.

 

Updated to include a few more details.

 

What size e-clip works well on the pedal linkage? When removing my master cylinder the stock little plastic bushing/clip broke. I got a set from the parts store "help" section and it won't stay on either!!

 

I actually don't remember! I went to the hardware store with my stock brake clip and bought a couple that were aprox the right size.

 

That was a quick reply....
I measured the shaft and it's 7/16". I tried one for that size shaft and it clipped on! I've tried it a few times though the real test will come when I drive it...

 

I like the GM one. Easier to get on and off than an e clip.

PN here:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...tch-pedal.html

 

I certainly agree...the overhang spring steel piece is some nice piece of mind too. Thanks for the link. I'll have to look into ordering one!

 

so if we wanted to put a t56 in place of a t5 in a 86 up camaro would you jus hav to change the trans or is there other stuff you would have to buy? just curious cause i jus bought pedals and all the hydraulics and the torque arm today for a future 5 or 6 speed swap.

 

just curious if there were any fitment issues with the mgw shifter in the car, like hitting the console or anything like that.. thx

 

Yes it does hit the center console when going into REVERSE, but nothing too bad. Overall the shifter quality overshadows the contact issue in REVERSE.

 

anyone in the know if this is different for the various years and camaro or firebird variants of the center consoles/shifter plates?

 

You could just get a stock lt1 flywheel machined and zero balanced to fit on a 2 piece rms. It only costs on average 60-80$ depending where you go. I got mine resurfaced aswell and only costed me 75$!!!

75$ compared to 400$+ it's an easy one to choose.

 

I dont understand this. Did you have new holes drilled for the crank shaft pattern?

 

Yea it was re drilled for the bigger bolt circle and the center was turned out bigger to fit over the centering hub also. I'll get a pic up in a few.

 

might not be a bad way to go for stock...

But would make me nervous drilling out a stock piece (cast?) that much.

 

525 horse 550 ftlbs big block turning 7k rpms. No worries here.

I wouldn't be worried about it at all. Just as thick just the circles are on a bigger pattern.

 

I dunno man, not to knock what youve done, but I think its a bad place to skimp. Heres what happens to a cast peice if its abused too much. $400 is cheap insurance for a billet piece IMO. Youre right its the same thickness outwards, and the removal of materal inwards of the circle shouldnt affect its integrity. Its still a cast piece in the end.

These centerforce pieces have been out for some time now, shouldnt be hard to find used units anyway.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vq5cjNhN_po


Just curious how the machine shop did it. $60-$80 is about 1hour for a shop rate. They would have had to pick up on the pattern some how before drilling through. Can you shed any light on that?

 

I took my 400 crank to him single one man band shop and told him that's the bolt pattern I need. Told him what I was doing and he said sounds good. Called me the next day and said come get it.

That video doesn't show anything except that they wasted a lot of money over a dumb thing. Also he broke it at 850 hp and still climbing! Also how many rpms you think that motor was turning to be at 850 horse n/a beat you it was 8k+. That motor prolly doubles my hp. Also did they say how old the flywheel was. That thing could of been ten years old and had it's whole life behind 600 horse and already stressing it.

Im not worried one bit at all knowing that could happen in the car with me next to it. There's someone else doing it on here that's were I got the idea from. I'll see if I can come up with the thread.

When I put slicks on it and decide to go to the track and put a 250 shot on it then I'll consider it.

Not trying to sound like a cocky dick but if you don't test things limits then you don't know the limits. I like to risk things sometimes **** happens but why be scared of it? What happens if your tire falls off going 80 on a side road and you hit a tree? Thing you have much chance of living? Not trying to sound like a tough guy now but I just don't let things get in my head. Cuz we all know our time could be tomorrow si what's the point of living in fear.

Just trying to say don't fret the little things.

 

The only way it would be a downgrade in strength would be if the original '86 pattern were cast (it wasn't) and the '85-down pattern was drilled.

That said, if someone needs a 2pc. seal LT1 T56 flywheel, I've one in the classifieds.