Ok, so I'm pretty sure I'm going with this rear: http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...-Complete.html

Center Section: Detroit Truetrac
Gear Ratio: 3.73

I was curious if I should go with a 30 spline, or a 33 spline? I was going to go with the 33. But I read somewhere if you break it, 30 spline is more common and parts will be easier to find?

Also, that rear is listed under 1982-1992 on Spohns site. So I'd imagine it will be the same length as my rear now? I really don't like the way 4th Gen rears look on our cars being wider.


Thanks!

 

I bought my Strange 12bolt rear from him a few years back. You need to be aware of your rear break options and mounting plates. I had to purchase Strange's backing plates because I was told I couldn't reuse my 91 1LE / PBR plates. I went with the 33spline myself.

 

How are you going to have it built? What type of alxe bearings and housing ends? Which differential?

 

This may sound dumb, but do I need "Metric - Standard length wheel studs." Or 1/2" standard length?

 

You'll want metric if going to use stock or stock replacement wheels and lugs. I'd recommend using the extended length ARP metric lugs if you ever need to run slicks and need to pass NHRA tech.

 

You can run slicks with factory wheel studs. The 12mm studs are very similar to the older car 7/16" studs.

You "need" longer studs if you use rims with a thick center section such as Weld Draglites. The rulebook states that the stud must protrude into the hex portion of the nut at least the diameter of the stud.

This means if you have a 12mm stud, at least 12mm of the stud must extend past the surface of the rim or washer if you use a nut/washer type of nut. The factory acorn nuts don't use a washer. The stud should extend to at least the outer surface of the acorn nut.

So if you use factory length 12mm studs and try to install Weld Draglite rims, the studs will be down inside the holes of the rim. The shank nuts you need to use will still grab the stud and hold the wheel on but they will not be track legal.

When upgrading to new axles, it doesn't hurt to upgrade to 1/2" studs. Even if you still use a factory rim, the 1/2" studs will still work.

 

You guys are awesome! Thank you! I am happy, my wallet is not. haha.

 

I should have added my disclaimer to retain metric studs for a
"street" driven car.. If you change to 1/2" studs in the rear, then
you'll have different lugs front to rear, need a different (or multi)
sized lug wrench with you all the time, different lug torque values
to remember and most cars will not need the extra strength the
1/2" studs afford.