Minor difference between the replacement trans I have versus the orig is at the input shaft seal, shim, bearing (#6-9 on a really good diagram that maybe some have too). The newer one has has a lot of give to it and I can pull it right off the input shaft if I turn it to where the spring comes out of its groove. Not the case with the orig. It doesn't push in far and it seems tightly on there. It appears that the distance from the tip of the shaft is the same for both of them. I don't think it's of any consequence but old one is '02, "new" one '00.
Can I or should I switch them over?
Also, a broken skip shift solenoid wouldn't of made a difference on how my old trans ran correct?
I'm going to need to pull the female hydraulic line coupler out of the old one. Is that going to cause air issues and need to bleed system. If so, how does one go about that.

 

I don't understand the part in bold.



As long as the broken part was external and not inside, that's correct.

on the LS T56 slave setups, I run a line from a barely-cracked bleeder up to the reservoir and pump to circulate the fluid through. Air free in short order.

 

Thanks for the responses and patience for a newby to tranny stuff. I guess it was a poor choice of words. What I'm saying is the seal/shim/bearing or whatever its called can be pushed in further if you pushed on it towards the main body on the new one. The old one can be pushed in very little. A difference in maybe .5 in vs 2 inches
Picture I hope may be worth a hundred words though it won't show the give I speak of.
Should I just get a new one for good insurance?? The old one has only about 50k miles and if you tell me its easy and GM dealer will rape my billfold to get new one I might reuse the old one

link to pic if it doesn't show

http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/6222/1005728t.jpg

 

The TOB is part of the slave cyl bolted to the front of the T56.. You should always replace them unless they are known good. Since you have to pull the T56 out of the car to get one in/out, it's good insurance to have a new one in there from the start.

 

So I'm about to go to the local chev dealer parts dept to see what they have since you seem to think that replacing TOB is the best bet.
Here's what I have, on the right is the one from the "new" tranny '00. Its bearing can be pulled right off from the cup part and separated iin three pieces.
The one on the left from the '02 seems to be two pieces with the bearing in the metal integrated unit?? Due to its very diffferent construction I'm thinking I need to specify the right year and go with the construction from the '00 unless the parts dept tells me differenly. I value opinions from here much higher though
I guess I'm just gonna get the uppertop right most piece unless anybody thinks differently. Am I missing a ring for the one on the right, and need to get that too ???

http://img819.imageshack.us/g/1005730p.jpg/

 

So I have a new OE TOB now. I was told it applies to 00-02 vehicles. Intresting no 98 or 99. It matches what was on the '00 tranny.
What is the difference I might feel in the clutch engage/disengage point feeling on the pedal with the shorter OE spring vs the longer one which was the one on my car. Any? None??
Is this an aftermarket TOB assembly?

http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/9434/1005731y.jpg

 

The slaves have been updated over the years, but everything is still interchangeable as a unit, as long as you don't try mixing TOBs, springs, bases between units.

 

Glad you wrote that Mike cause it did cross my mind and I thought about putting the larger orig spring in instead, but I didn't. I got a whole new actuator assembly which was probably overkill.
Finished all but the bleeding today. That valve is not positioned well. Does it works just like brakes?? Keep pumping for a while, then hold down clutch all the way to the floor and tighten valve closed???

Few other things..What does the v shaped grooves in the old input shaft indicate to you??

Is that driveshft unsafe being that far away. I swear it wasn't quite that far before

http://img697.imageshack.us/g/1005733j.jpg/
You shouldn't be able to quickly spin the input shaft by hand and not have the other side spin at the exact same rate no?
dinner and beers on me the next time I roll through your neck of the woods

 

Bleeding procedure from ls1tech:


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.) With clutch pedal up, reservoir full of fresh DOT-3 brake fluid, reservoir cap properly tightened, no foot on pedal, crack open slave bleeder valve.
2.) Have assistant slowly and smoothly depress clutch pedal.
3.) Close/tighten slave bleeder valve when fluid flow begins to taper (clutch pedal at or near the floorboard.)
4.) Release clutch pedal...do not pull it up by hand.
5.) Top off clutch reservoir with fresh DOT-3 brake fluid, replace reservoir cap and snug it down.
6.) Pump pedal a few times (I do 5 cycles).
7.) Repeat from step 1.

After a few iterations of this, if you're still not getting good clutch release it's time to buy a Mity-Vac. Using the plastic conical tip in the Mity-Vac kit, you insert it firmly into the hole at the bottom of the reservoir and pull a vacuum. You'll usually see an air bubble or two exit the system via the Mity-Vac's clear hose. If you have a Motive powerbleeder with a clutch res. adapter, it should make the job easy for one person.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you're asking about the V-shaped maching on the TOB sleeve, they are normal maching marks. The V-shaped clutch splines look ok, just shiney where the disc was riding.

If you have the car up in the air, the suspension may not be fully loaded and the yoke distance looks to be ok.

In Neutral, it's common for the input shaft spinning to turn the output. It's just because of the close tolerances of everything and any amount of resistance of the output will keep it from spinning..

 

Well I'm glad the v-grooves were just standard machining. Means I have less to worry about with the replacement trans. I'd hate to have gone through all this trouble with only trans experience gained if it was something else besides my nearly bone dry fluid filled previous trans.
Standard bleeding via instructions failed miserably. Gonna search that Mity-Vac now

 

Why is it that clutch pumping seems to not be moving anything?? THe only time I get fluid coming out of the bleeder is when the valve is cracked open and gravity does the rest. So I take it that at least fluid from the reservior is moving through the quick connect and coming out the bleeder valve. Why can't it be moved with some clutch pumping??
I have tried a hand held mity vac but it has no instructions and operator error is highly probable. Shoving the tip down the reservoir hole only gets overflow of the reservoir.
The piston, quick connect line and reservoir haven't been moved from the car. THey worked fine keeping the locked in one gear old tranny from moving through the garage door with the engine running. I have been starting the car for months keeping my clutch pedal to the floor, so I have a hard time believing that something is wrong with this. I took the clip holding the end part of the piston to the pedal off briefly, but like I said nothing else has changed. The pedal only feel is the the spring return resistance
Do I need the electrical, non hand held version of the mity-vac? Where is the system or myself going wrong?

 

Alright. This post was the trick.
http://www.performanceworks1.com/ls1...h_bleeding.htm
This is the only way to go, I think. We'll see when I try to start & put in gear.
And to clear up some simple things for no prior knowledge guys without the mity-vac instruction sheet (that would of come in very handy)..the release vacuum is the trigger like thing and the reservoir is empty in the pictures and not full of brake fluid.
bleed t56 (for search purposes for newby gearheads)