Just as the title says. I have a carb spacer on my edelbrock carb. The spacer is a 1/2 inch spacer. I have the correct brackets to align the TV cable on the carb ( one on the intake and one on the carb). Is the 1/2 an inch the carb spacer raises the carb going to throw of the correct geometry of the TV?

 

Which brackets are you using?

 

if a bracket is mounted to the intake then yes your geometry will be thrown off.

as of right now, how does it drive with all the aftermarket components, compared to stock?

 

EDL-8036 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-8036/

SUM-700203 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-700203/

Shift Points are too high shifting at:

1/2 throttle:

Shifts from 1 to 2 at about 25MPH and 5000 - 5250 RPMS
Shifts from 2 to 3 at about 55 MPH and 5000 - 5250 RPMS

I did get on it a little not quiet WOT but 3/4 + and it shifted at 6000 plus or minus 200 RPM it was hard to watch the tach and the road.

Engines power band: The engines peak power is 382hp@ 5100 and 430 ft/lb of TQ @ 4500 RPM

 

I have an Edelbrock Air gap manifold, since it sits higher than a stock manifold and also raises the carb wouldn't that throw off the proper geometry for the TV cable too?

 

Never mind.

 

I don't know if I made it clear or not in my previous posts I have an Edelbrock carb as well as the edelbrock Air Gap manifold. Would I still need the Holley bracket even with the edelbrock carb? It sounded like from the description that they are to be used with Holley carbs.

 

My bad. Sorry. I've never seen that before. I did notice you had an Edelbrock after posting it but thought the brackets would be similar and the general idea still apply. I guess I would contact Edelbrock and tell them the part numbers of what you have and size of the spacer and see what they have to say.

 

The simple answer is yes. You need to adjust the TV cable. The teeth in the adjuster are very tiny so just think about it changing the geometry even slightly will make it off.

Adjust it normally, hit the release button pull it all the way back into the adjuster, let go of the button then press the pedal firm to the floor and go test it, it should be close if not right on. If not perfect to dial it in by hand using two hands twist the throttle open up hard. Do NOT pull, pry or otherwise lever the throttle linkage it will snap clean off, twist it from the side of the car trying to put the least pressure on the throttle shaft. This should get you another "click" or two.

An easy test is in first gear accelerate normally and as soon as it shifts to second floor it and if it doesn't shift to 1st it is off.

 

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/cata...php?ITEMID=213

 

Seems to me the geometry will be the same, but the tension on the tv cable will be different.

 

The geometry will be different. The cable will be pulled at a different angle relative to the throttle arm, so there will be a different amount of extension per degree of opening throughout the range of travel.

 

That makes sense. I see now. I have contemplated getting a spacer, but I never considered the tv issue. I suppose if it is possible, move the cable accordingly.

 

Yes, or use a bracket that mounts to the carb.

 

Reread Doom86's post, cause it's on the money. a throttle valve cable doesn't care about angles, only about the correct travel at the correct time, which is set by the adjuster. good luck.

 

Correct travel at the correct time depends in part on the angle.

 

Which once again, as doom86 posted, is compensated for at the tv adjuster at the carb. Hope you're all set by now. Doesn't take very long.

 

It can't be compensated for by the adjuster. Consider the absurd case where the cable meets the throttle arm coming down from the vertical. In that case, maximum TV cable extension is with the throttle fully closed, and the cable actually retracts as the throttle is opened. Of course in practical alignments it won't be that extreme, but the geometry difference can cause a noticeable difference in shift timing and feel when the bracket is mounted well below the throttle arm.

 

I agree with that AP, You're talking absured angles. The tank mentionred he had correct brackets to mount his TV cable to his new set-up. And i'ld like to give him the benefit of the doubt that he's got enough travel. Now isn't it just fine tuning of the TV cable adjuster to get the shift points to his desired taste?

 

The correct brackets are assuming the manifold and carburetor are also as per design, the spacer changes that IMO.

My take on it is that the adapter for the throttle is a predetermined length from the pivot point along the Y axis which sets the amount of pull along the X axis. As the throttle moves to WOT the less it moves along the X axis and the more it moves along the Y axis. But the cable is only affected by the movement along the X axis.

If you were to change (lower) the height of where the adjuster is mounted the angle of the cable would also change, which would also change (lower) the effective distance at the throttle. Imagine drawing a line along the cable and measuring the distance from that line and the pivot point. To me this would change the amount the cable is drawn through the entire sweep to WOT, or even start out less, then increase and then decrease again.

Whether it's enough to make a difference is another thing (ie. 1/2" spacer?), but having the adjuster mounted to the base of the carb would make this a non issue. Which is why I believe that the other manufacturers use the base of the carb for the adjuster mount.

 

What about mph and gears? Would a 373 shift at a lower mph than say a 2.73 rear end?

 

If the TV cable adjuster was "frozen", or not adjustable, natuurally all these variables would effect the performance of this cable. the adjuster is made to accomidate these"minor deviences", such as a 1/2" spacer. but hey, what do I know. I've been a stick shift guy my whole life. This thread has been entertaining. hope I haven't come across as a 'know it all", cause I'll be the first to admit i'm a moron. it's just my opinion, which like you know what, everyones got one. Outta here.

 

I'm not saying I know everything either, just an observation of the geometry is all. I'm here to learn just like anyone else and just saying how I see it, and seeing if you or anyone else sees it the same way. I'm open to the fact that if it's a 1/2 spacer it probably wouldn't matter, but not knowing the internals other than how critical they say they are I would be careful in just letting it go.