Im trying to remove my 700r4 and im having trouble getting to the top two bolts on the bellhousing. I cant really get around the wiring and all of the tpi componets. Im going to try to jack up the rear of the trans then try, but is there any tricks that I dont know about on how to get it out? Thanks!!!

 

Are you trying to remove it from the top via the engine bay? Otherwise, remove the distributor and lower the transmission tail for access to these bolts from underneath the car. Be careful

 

What he said, unless you feel like removing the whole top half of your engine...I did trans pull and engine swap at the same time and got those bolts from the top...should also be noted, you're going to need some long extensions to do it from underneath the car I believe.

 

The two top bolts are easy. You have to do it from underneath, at least, thats the easiest way.

You need to remove the dist. cap and remove the trans crossmember. I kept a small jack under the tail of the tranny when removing the crossmember.

After you remove the xmember, slowly lower the jack enough to get visible access to the top bolts - You'll need some extensions and possibly a swivel, but they'll be accessible that way.

I just did this about 2 months ago when I removed my 700 and replaced it with a T5.

 

The 2 top bolts are the EASIEST. You DON'T do them from underneath; that's why you're having trouble.

Do them from above, with a short 9/16" box-end wrench. You can stand next to the car, reach down, and they're right there.

 

I just did mine a few weeks ago. I couldn't get at the top bolts from the engine bay. The crossfire intake may be different, not sure, but could barely get my fingers in there, let alone a wrench.

That might work for you though.

If not, as stated before - and will work for the top four bolts - remove the distributor cap and maybe even the rotor depending on how worn your engine mounts are, put a jack under the trans, remove the cross member and slowly drop the trans while you have someone watch the distributor against the firewall.

Once you get it low enough, a shallow well socket on a swivel with about 18 - 24 inches of extensions on a air hammer is how I got mine out.

Even with a pretty stout air hammer and 90 psi, it took quite a while off and on the trigger for it to break loose.

I had extensions going back until almost the tail shaft and as hard as the bolts were torqued during a previous install from another owner, the air gun was a life saver.

Borrow one if you can get it and should be a snap.

 

There's a wiring harness about 1.5" in diameter that blocks me from accessing the bolts from above.

 

when i dropped the 700r4 out of my z28('82 with C/F)
i got the two upper bolts from underneath using long
extensions and a swivel-was not enough clearance to
get them from above(was easy from above when my
car was carb)-supported the engine under the pan
and did not move it at all

 

Actually I had an easier job getting at the top ones raising the tail of the trans. Made it so the wrench angled away from the firewall rather than going straight perpendicular to it. Buying a long-handled 9/16 made things much easier too.

I can imagine getting the top two out from under the car. I had enough trouble with the middle two, and that was lowering the tail plus using a swivel and a couple extensions.

 

Some packages are more crowded than others. The method I use routinely is to remove the driveshaft, then the trans x-member of the trans and SLOWLY lower the tail of the powertrain towards the ground. Use a few long extensions with a pivoting socket and go after the two top bolts. the others are real easy then too. (NOTE a poivoting 9/16 six point socket is NOT a swivel and a 9/16" socket since this is too much compliance and you won't be able to generate the required torque to loosen).