So I have been slowly working on my rough shifting problems. Probably associated with the fact that I have headers and a plastic clutch line. From what I have researched the line expands and doesn't allow my centerforce clutch kit function. Before I go and buy a new (possably 4th gen) slave, should I set up a steel braided master to slave line? I am running super blue Brake fluid and my headers are now wrapped which both mods helped big time but I still have trouble shifting when parts are warmed up. Just let me know if i am understanding this correctly.

 

I guess it could be possible but you would have to remove the assembly to put on a braided line anyway, so you might as well replace the unit. Since I am not sure of everything done to the car, you may have some clearance issues with the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate. Did you use the GM flywheel or an aftermarket? Are you positive the geometry of the clutch pedal and slave cylinder are perfect?

 

The flywheel is stock, it was turned and clean. Throw out bearing is new. All professionally installed in march. I helped with the install, geometry is correct. It drove fine for a while, slowly degreased to the condition it's in.

 

You said you had the flywheel turned? Did you install the correct spacer to make up the loss of thickness to the flywheel?

I ran headers and a plastic clutch line for a year and never had any issues with shifting or heat. And my headers get insanely hot(700* on average).

I did install a braided line at the beginning of this summer, and I like it. Much firmer pedal along with a better feel for when it engages.

 

No I never installed a spacer, thought never ran through my head. Would that really cause is problem?

 

That's your problem.

The hydraulic clutch on our cars is not adjustable. By turning the flywheel you are making it thinner, effectively moving the pressure plate and clutch assembly farther from the clutch fork and throwout bearing requiring a longer stroke to fully depress the pressure plate and release the clutch. Since you can't adjust the travel of the clutch fork, a spacer is used between the flywheel and crankshaft to move the flywheel back to its original position in relation to the clutch fork/transmission.

When I got mine turned, I never thought of it either. Fortunately for me, the guy at the machine shop wouldn't let me leave without it. I was pissed at the time cause he charged me more for the spacer than he did to turn the flywheel so I thought he was trying to rip me off since it was the first time I had ever been there. After some Internet searching and a quick call to a friend who is a GM mechanic, I realized the guy was right and felt a bit better about it. Luckily I didn't argue with the guy at the shop or make an *** out of myself cause I would have really felt like an idiot.

 

I can agree with the use of a spacer but I think it depends on the amount of material that was removed. Its just a like a brake rotor that is designed with a min and max tolerance. I have had a few cars that were standard transmissions and i never used a spacer after turning the flywheel. But again, it depends on how crazy they get with the surfacing machine. If they took off too much material, then your tolerances will be off and your clutch plate and pressure plate will be off. I hate to tell you to start replacing parts but it may be your only options. I would definately start with the new hydraulic line before you drop the trans, but it may come to that.

 

Well, I called and talked to my friend mechanic/ mentor with cars...I swear this guy really dose know his stuff. He said that he did not remove much from the flywheel, he turned it at his house. He and I did the conversion and the only problem he had with it was that he didn't like that plastic line and he didn't think then that once the shifting prob started ( I drove the car for a month or so until probs started) that the slave was initiating the clutch fork far enough. So we manufactured a quick rig to make the slave push a little farther. (1/8th) an inch more. (drove better for a week or so ) I swear everything I do helps for a short period of time. Placebo

 

I was looking back through the Excel file I keep on all work I do to the Camaro, and I don't have the amount they took off of my flywheel listed. It wasn't much though, maybe .005"-.010".

I did find the prices I paid though(I have also kept track of all costs associated with the car since I started on it) and they charged me $38 to turn the flywheel and racked me for $13 for the spacer. I had thought I paid a lot more for it than that, but apparently not. I do remember feeling like I was getting ripped of paying that much for a piece of metal that was thinner than a sheet of paper.

 

I understand what you guys are talking about with the spacer , when I replaced my 69 broncos clutch it had a spacer. I really appreciate your guys help

 

The other deal is that in Jan or feb i'm getting the trans rebuilt (I don't have a single synchro except for 1st and 5th) so I am going to try and solve the problem as bet I can until they pull out the trans , at that point I'll have them check the tolerances and the rest of the internals. It's getting old and unfortunately I decided to have a 3rd gen daily driver while in school and mod it at the same time....

 

Some other things to check before you rip the transmission out for a spacer.

Check the master and slave cylinder pushrods to make sure they aren't bent or binding.

Check the ball end of the slave cylinder for excessive wear.

Check the clutch fork isn't bent, and for excessive wear where the slave cylinder pushrod pushes against it. Unfortunately, you'll have to remove the trans to see if the fork is bent.

If you do end up pulling the transmission, check the fork pivot ball for excessive wear along with the matching pocket on the back of the fork. And make sure the retaining clip on the back of the fork is not broke and seating correctly around the pivot ball. I had a fork with one tab on the clip broke off and it made it difficult to shift because the fork was twisting instead of pivoting the way it should.

 

Good point. The slave cyl is new as of may from gm so no excessive wear there. The clutch fork is one thing id love to check but I won't be able to fully check it till Jan or feb because I'm unable to remove the trans In my garage in fl. The pivot ball could well be worn , the trans is from hawks and has god knows how many miles and beating on it.

 

Everything adds up. If the pivot ball and clutch fork are worn, and you had the flywheel shaved, it could all add up to your issue. It is confusing as to why you are able to "fix" it for a while and then it goes back to being messed up. I would replace the hydraulic assembly with the braided line when you rebuild the trans. Hopefully this will help and you can enjoy the car.

 

Hopefully! Lol