testing posi question
#1
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Long Island New York
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Car: 89 Formula 350
Engine: Forged 385 H/C/I
Transmission: 700R4-4300 Stall-lockup
Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt 3:70
testing posi question
I have a rebuilt 9 bolt new cones -gears -bearings ect. It only has about 800 miles on it. I was driving at slow rolls the other day around 5-6 mph and jumped on it 3 times. First time it broke the tires loose and left 2 dark tire marks on the road..Second time same thing, 2 dark tire marks... The last time is where it annoyed me. I pulled to the side of the road to let traffic get by and after it cleared I pulled back into lane and rolling around 5mph jumped on it again. This time it just left only one tire mark??? WTF!?
I just jacked the car up, put it in neutral and spun a tire while both rears were in the air. Both tires spun in same direction. Then I left 1 rear tire in the air other on ground. I was able with a little effort to spin the one wheel as the other was still on the ground. It need constant force to spin and would stop once I removed pressure. Then I tried to spin in reverse it was a little harder to spin that way.
Any ideas why it lost posi 1 out of 3 times? The car has drag radials on it. running Amsoil gear oil and I called them, they said it has additive in it.
I just jacked the car up, put it in neutral and spun a tire while both rears were in the air. Both tires spun in same direction. Then I left 1 rear tire in the air other on ground. I was able with a little effort to spin the one wheel as the other was still on the ground. It need constant force to spin and would stop once I removed pressure. Then I tried to spin in reverse it was a little harder to spin that way.
Any ideas why it lost posi 1 out of 3 times? The car has drag radials on it. running Amsoil gear oil and I called them, they said it has additive in it.
#2
Supreme Member
Re: testing posi question
i was having a similar issue with a 10-bolt. the best advise i got was to go do some slow speed figure 8s in a parking lot. it worked for me. i am curious what causes this also.
#3
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Long Island New York
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Car: 89 Formula 350
Engine: Forged 385 H/C/I
Transmission: 700R4-4300 Stall-lockup
Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt 3:70
Re: testing posi question
slow speed figure 8's??? I don't understand how this will help or do?
#4
Supreme Member
Re: testing posi question
im not sure on the 9 bolt, but it was explained to me that it works the clutches back & forth, cleaning off any built up varnish or shilac, causing one wheel to slip.
#5
Re: testing posi question
When the cones were replaced did the axle gears get shimmed to tighten everything up? Rebuilding a limited slip differential requires some shimming to get everything tight and even from one side to the other. If the new cones were dropped in and nothing else was done that could be causing the problem.
#6
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Long Island New York
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
Car: 89 Formula 350
Engine: Forged 385 H/C/I
Transmission: 700R4-4300 Stall-lockup
Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt 3:70
Re: testing posi question
When the cones were replaced did the axle gears get shimmed to tighten everything up? Rebuilding a limited slip differential requires some shimming to get everything tight and even from one side to the other. If the new cones were dropped in and nothing else was done that could be causing the problem.
I haven't pulled the guts out of a rear myself. It's it very involved shimming the friction cones??
#7
Re: testing posi question
The axle gears need to be tight enough on the pinion gears to give about .010 backlash on the pinion gears. The axle gears also must be shimmed so that both axle gears are the same distance from the pinion gears. If one axle gear is tighter agains the pinion gears than the other then that gear is going to get all of the pressure from the pinion gears and the other side will not be pulling it's weight. It must be balanced or you stand to break one axle gear, or spin one tire. This goes for any cone or clutch plate type of limited slip differential. There are 4 pinion gears in the Borg Warner differential instead of the 2 pinion gears in the GM 10 bolt differential, which makes it quite a bit stronger. The problem with the BW is that it is completely inclosed and you don't have access to the inside to check stuff very well. You also must get the splines in the axle gears and cones aligned when you bolt the case together or you will not be able to get the axles in when you assemble it.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 SS
Engine: LT1+1500$ hooker exhaust
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 bogger
Re: testing posi question
I have a 10 bolt 3.23 and she finally went one wheel peel on me, it doesn't even f****** catch anymore it's just ----------------------------- i'm pissed off. i can't stand not barking both ========. It kills my launch and my ego just spinning though second gear without posi.
Last edited by 89rs454; 11-09-2012 at 06:22 PM.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 SS
Engine: LT1+1500$ hooker exhaust
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 bogger
Re: testing posi question
Heres an example, skip to 35sec to see a possi slip. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=br5mY04n9J8
#10
Re: testing posi question
You most likely have the Auburn. Take it out, clean out all of the metal in the housing and install a new Eaton Posi or Yukon Dura Grip. You will like them much better. And if they ever wear out you can rebuild them. The worn out Auburn is just scrap metal.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 SS
Engine: LT1+1500$ hooker exhaust
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 bogger
Re: testing posi question
I plan on taking this rear end to scrap, I think it's not worth the time considering i could get a 4th gen 3:42 for 250$.
#12
Re: testing posi question
The 4th gen rear ends are wider, but you probably already know that. The LT1 rear ends also had the Auburn. The LS1 rear ends used the Torsen, which is better than the Auburn.
#13
Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: ohio
Posts: 296
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: OVRMYHD
Engine: H/C/I LS1
Transmission: 4L60E 3,200 Edge stall
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/3.90
Re: testing posi question
I hate to be the one to tell you but you're gonna need a 12 bolt or 9 inch if you don't want to keep breaking stuff. Ask me how I know.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 885
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 SS
Engine: LT1+1500$ hooker exhaust
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 bogger
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ambainb
Camaros for Sale
11
04-25-2016 09:21 PM
hectre13
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
7
08-26-2015 08:17 AM