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testing posi question

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Old 11-08-2012, 05:26 PM
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Car: 89 Formula 350
Engine: Forged 385 H/C/I
Transmission: 700R4-4300 Stall-lockup
Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt 3:70
testing posi question

I have a rebuilt 9 bolt new cones -gears -bearings ect. It only has about 800 miles on it. I was driving at slow rolls the other day around 5-6 mph and jumped on it 3 times. First time it broke the tires loose and left 2 dark tire marks on the road..Second time same thing, 2 dark tire marks... The last time is where it annoyed me. I pulled to the side of the road to let traffic get by and after it cleared I pulled back into lane and rolling around 5mph jumped on it again. This time it just left only one tire mark??? WTF!?
I just jacked the car up, put it in neutral and spun a tire while both rears were in the air. Both tires spun in same direction. Then I left 1 rear tire in the air other on ground. I was able with a little effort to spin the one wheel as the other was still on the ground. It need constant force to spin and would stop once I removed pressure. Then I tried to spin in reverse it was a little harder to spin that way.
Any ideas why it lost posi 1 out of 3 times? The car has drag radials on it. running Amsoil gear oil and I called them, they said it has additive in it.
Old 11-08-2012, 05:32 PM
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Re: testing posi question

i was having a similar issue with a 10-bolt. the best advise i got was to go do some slow speed figure 8s in a parking lot. it worked for me. i am curious what causes this also. Name:  MMS_Resized_Pix.jpg
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Old 11-08-2012, 05:54 PM
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Car: 89 Formula 350
Engine: Forged 385 H/C/I
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Axle/Gears: BW 9 Bolt 3:70
Re: testing posi question

slow speed figure 8's??? I don't understand how this will help or do?
Old 11-08-2012, 06:08 PM
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Re: testing posi question

im not sure on the 9 bolt, but it was explained to me that it works the clutches back & forth, cleaning off any built up varnish or shilac, causing one wheel to slip.
Old 11-08-2012, 09:37 PM
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Re: testing posi question

When the cones were replaced did the axle gears get shimmed to tighten everything up? Rebuilding a limited slip differential requires some shimming to get everything tight and even from one side to the other. If the new cones were dropped in and nothing else was done that could be causing the problem.
Old 11-09-2012, 03:35 PM
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Car: 89 Formula 350
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Re: testing posi question

Originally Posted by big gear head
When the cones were replaced did the axle gears get shimmed to tighten everything up? Rebuilding a limited slip differential requires some shimming to get everything tight and even from one side to the other. If the new cones were dropped in and nothing else was done that could be causing the problem.
To be honest I'm not sure if he used shims. I buying a front LS1 brake coversion from the same guy in a few weeks so I'm going to ask him more about the cones and shims in the rear then.
I haven't pulled the guts out of a rear myself. It's it very involved shimming the friction cones??
Old 11-09-2012, 04:48 PM
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Re: testing posi question

The axle gears need to be tight enough on the pinion gears to give about .010 backlash on the pinion gears. The axle gears also must be shimmed so that both axle gears are the same distance from the pinion gears. If one axle gear is tighter agains the pinion gears than the other then that gear is going to get all of the pressure from the pinion gears and the other side will not be pulling it's weight. It must be balanced or you stand to break one axle gear, or spin one tire. This goes for any cone or clutch plate type of limited slip differential. There are 4 pinion gears in the Borg Warner differential instead of the 2 pinion gears in the GM 10 bolt differential, which makes it quite a bit stronger. The problem with the BW is that it is completely inclosed and you don't have access to the inside to check stuff very well. You also must get the splines in the axle gears and cones aligned when you bolt the case together or you will not be able to get the axles in when you assemble it.
Old 11-09-2012, 06:11 PM
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Re: testing posi question

I have a 10 bolt 3.23 and she finally went one wheel peel on me, it doesn't even f****** catch anymore it's just ----------------------------- i'm pissed off. i can't stand not barking both ========. It kills my launch and my ego just spinning though second gear without posi.

Last edited by 89rs454; 11-09-2012 at 06:22 PM.
Old 11-09-2012, 06:16 PM
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Re: testing posi question

Heres an example, skip to 35sec to see a possi slip. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=br5mY04n9J8
Old 11-09-2012, 09:34 PM
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Re: testing posi question

You most likely have the Auburn. Take it out, clean out all of the metal in the housing and install a new Eaton Posi or Yukon Dura Grip. You will like them much better. And if they ever wear out you can rebuild them. The worn out Auburn is just scrap metal.
Old 11-09-2012, 10:22 PM
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Re: testing posi question

Originally Posted by big gear head
You most likely have the Auburn. Take it out, clean out all of the metal in the housing and install a new Eaton Posi or Yukon Dura Grip. You will like them much better. And if they ever wear out you can rebuild them. The worn out Auburn is just scrap metal.
I plan on taking this rear end to scrap, I think it's not worth the time considering i could get a 4th gen 3:42 for 250$.
Old 11-10-2012, 08:32 AM
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Re: testing posi question

The 4th gen rear ends are wider, but you probably already know that. The LT1 rear ends also had the Auburn. The LS1 rear ends used the Torsen, which is better than the Auburn.
Old 11-18-2012, 09:33 PM
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Re: testing posi question

I hate to be the one to tell you but you're gonna need a 12 bolt or 9 inch if you don't want to keep breaking stuff. Ask me how I know.
Old 11-18-2012, 09:37 PM
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Re: testing posi question

Originally Posted by Prokilllsx
I hate to be the one to tell you but you're gonna need a 12 bolt or 9 inch if you don't want to keep breaking stuff. Ask me how I know.
Your right. And tbh i hate it.
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