ksith

got my swap going yesterday. going to post pics and a detailed discription of what I am doing so maybe if anyone else does exactly what I did it will be in one place intsead of several. List of what I am doing.

removing 700r4 with electric speedo installing t5 with manual speedo cable

swapping gauge cluster from 87 electric speedo to 85 cable drive speedo (requires repinning gauges).

removing and installing pedal assembly.

I have already repinned the gauge cluster and tested to make sure all gauges work. I also have removed and installed the pedal assembly.

I will post pics of my work coming soon

I have a full doner car to work with here and as noted in other threads this is the best way to go as you won't have to nickle and dime yourself to death. I will be using everything from the donor car as to cut my cost down to just the cost of the car $325 and the cost of fluids. The rear end has been swapped from the 85 into my 87 so I wont have to change speedo gears either. If I forget anything let me know.

AKcamaroAK

Definitely keep this post going; I'm doing the same thing to my 86 z28 here very soon, actually buying a t-5 off craigslist this friday, and I need all the info I can get.

loading

It must be that time of the year. I just started mine last week. 85 Donor to a 90

ksith

Right here's some pics as promised. First a run down of what I did.

First I removed the entire dash assembly I mean everything including the core and dropped the steering wheel.

Once I got all that out of the way it was pretty simple to remove the original brake pedal (Easier still if you remove the bracket for the steering wheel).

Don't forget to take off the clip holding on the plunger and remove all the connections. Mine had provisions for brake lights and cruise control yours may be different.

Once the 5 bolts holding the brake pedal were removed you can yank that out and go around to the front under the hood move aside the master cylinder and remove that big ole vacuum booster. watch out that center pin can fall out.

I used the donor car to make a template for the hole for the slave cylinder and transfered that to the 87. Simple procedure of drilling a bunch of small holes the a metal cutting wheel with a dremel did the trick for me. Followed that up with a grinding stone on the dremel to smooth it up a bit.

The factory U bolt threads where stripped badly so I used two flange bolts and nuts.

Once you get the slave cylinder in you can move around back to the inside of the car and shove (gently) the new (used) clutch and brake pedal assembly in its new home. fasten the 4 bolts holding the braces and booster on (hopefully you remembered to put the booster back) and the one bolt up top.

Go back to the front and reassemble the brake hardware this time adding the reservoir for the hydraulic provisions to the drivers side of the booster master cylinder assembly.

Reassemble dash and If you are going my route (the cheap way) and you have an electric speed with vss but the tranny you are swapping in has a cable driven speedo. You might want to repin the connectors for the cluster and use the cluster for the donor car. It's really confusing to rewire but I will post pics as to what color wire goes where. If it isn't in there It isn't used flat out. I test drove with the older cluster and everything works great. Except for the speedo which obviously not connected to anything.

ksith

more pics

ksith

more

ksith

still more

ksith

last one

ksith

lets see if I can type this up so everyone can understand the new pinout I used. This is for swapping an 85 cluster into an 87 dash

Starting with the upper connecter

1 is now green wire for temp from l5 on 87
2 is now pink fuel from u10 on 87
3 stays the same
4 is now blk ground from u2
5 na
6 na
7 na
8 na
9 is now lt blue for l turn from u7
10 is now dk blue for r turn from u 9
11 na
12 is now tan/blk shift from u14
13 is now pnk/blk power from l9
14 is now yellow check engine from u13

lower

1 is now lt green hi beam from u8 (missed this in the pic it fell out
2 na
3 na
4 is now blk ground from l2
5 is now grey dash lights from l3
6 is now tan/wht park brake from u1
7 na
8 na
9 na
10 is now blk ground from l12
11 is now tan oil gauge from l8
12 is now yellow seat blt from l13
13 na
14 is now grey choke from l4

I realize the pic I posted is wrong. I added an extra space in there sorry about that. It should go #1 lt grn, 2,3 blank #4 black, #5 grey, #6 tan/white, #7 blank, 8,9 blank, #10 black, #11 tan, #12 ylw, 13 blank, #14 grey

Copchaser

iTrader: (2)

Is there any possibility u could trace out the template on a piece of cardboard and send it to me please? Pretty please..lmao

ksith

don't have a donor car? You can probably go to the local scrap yard when they get a manual car in and trace that out.

Copchaser

iTrader: (2)

I was hoping you could save me the trouble and help me out on this one.

ksith

yeah i'll see if i still have it. pm me your address

ksith

More to come soon. only thing I've done is wire the neutral safety switch Yellow and purple wires from the harness on the auto shifter to the switch on the clutch. Mine had two spots on it one for cruise control. the other for neutral safety. make sure you wire up the right one. the neutral safety switch will read closed on a meter less the 1 ohm with the clutched pushed all the way down. should be removing and installing transmissions within the week. sorry this is taking so long gotta take care of the family too.

trinkits

This is awesome! Thanks for sharing! I am starting a T5 swap within next two weeks. I actually came here today to see how i could get a template for Clutch master cylinder holes. Since another member asked you already...can anyone help me out with that?

LilSki

iTrader: (1)

I did the opposite and went from 85 gauges to 89 as I hated the 85 style and needed an electronic speedo for the T56. I can dig up my old papers I made and post it if there is an interest.

ksith

The way I see it the more information on one post the better.

ksith

here's some more stuff done today.

removal of that nasty 700r4

first thing was to remove distributor so I could drop rear of engine as far as possible. also found for reaching the top two bolts was easiest sitting in the engine bay and reaching down from the top. but I got skinny hands so might not work for everyone. they are 9/16 bolts.

I then removed the torque arm and drive shaft pretty easy and self explainatory.

Remove all the connections and cables going to the tranny. shifter cable comes off with two bolts on the pan. detent comes off from linkage above on engine and gets pulled down. speedo cable gets unplugged. The tranny cooler lines I just cut since they wont be used.

Once that is done you can go ahead and remove the three bolts holding the flywheel and torque converter together. Thats kind of a pain in the butt since you have to manually turn the engine.

Then its just a matter of removing four bolts and dropping the trans. Make sure if you dont have a tranny jack like me you use a peice of wood to spread the pressure of the jack around so you dont crush your pan. It's kinda heavy but manageable.

In the midst of all this my 3 year old decided he wanted to help and of course he caused more harm the good. Eh but whatever start em young i say little guy hid my 9/16 on me though in the process of finding it i tripped over the 4th gen center console i had in my car (now on the garage floor) and banged my hand and knee rather well. moral of the story make sure your kid doesnt take the tools you need and keep a clean work space.

here come the pics

ksith

yeah pics

ksith

more

ksith

here's how I cut the hole for the shifter.

Using the stock rubber boot I measured the donor car and got the dimensions for placement.

I placed the boot in the trans tunnel and trimmed the carpet accordingly then drilled the holes using a bolt through the first hole to hold the boot in place while I drilled the others.

I used a sharpy to mark inside those holes and drilled several 1/4 inch holes all the way around

Using my dremel with a metal cutting wheel I cut between the holes till I had my shifter hole.

Then I used a grinding stone to smooth things up a bit and took a file to knock off any burrs or rough edges.

ksith

pics

ksith

getting the rest of what I need tomorrow. should be finishing either tomorrow or tuesday.

ksith

Got more done but still not finished. ran out of time. So far transmission is in and drive shaft is in.

For the trans its just a matter of bolting up flywheel putting the bushing in ( had to use a hammer and socket to get mine in all the way).

Putting the clutch on the tool then inserting tool into bushing bolting up the pressure plate and make sure the tool slides in and out freely no binding.

Bolt up bellhousing and make that transmission your little B when you go to put it in. I had to yell at mine before it would cooperate and slide in but it will go in. I was doing this with a regular 3 ton floor jack too.

Then it's just a matter of bolting up what you took off.

Make sure you have the right starter for the flywheel or you wont be going anywhere. I saved the starter from the donor car and used that one. I saved mostly everything from the donor car actually.

All that's left is bolting the torque arm, dizzy cap, connecting the starter, bleeding the slave and bolting in the center console. will post pics later today for you guys.

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

sorry, bud . I now see that your carbed

ksith

was about to say. Yeah carbed and not even the original engine anymore either. Honestly I'm not sure what my computer does anymore. Going to go finish her up now will post pics when I'm done

ksith

well got everything back together. Now the problems begin, can't do a swap of any sort without something going wrong eh? Problem now is the engine turns over but no matter where I put the distributor it doesn't fire. Going to try timing it tomorrow getting late and need to spend time with family. Also frustrated with the whole ordeal. Well here are the finished pictures know its not much but it's nearly done. The pic of the trans doesn't have the torque arm but it is installed

trinkits

When you unbolted the torque arm, What did you do to keep the tension from slamming the arm up into floorpan? Also, did you remove the whole distributor or just cap? Can the cap just be removed or must one remove the whole distributor?

ksith

to keep the torque arm from banging into the floor you can use a block of wood. i had a big pry bar that i stuck in one of the holes of the bar and wedged against the body. as for the distributor you can just take the cap off. I took the whole thing out so i could get to the two top bolts of the tranny. And I got everything running just to figure out that the master cylinder is leaking. Unfortunatly we dont have the money to fix it right now. next month that will happen. but evrything else works

nevermind just ordered the master cylinder off summit.

LilSki

iTrader: (1)

Looking good! I finally found my stuff on my gauge swap and figured I would post it. Instead of double posting here is a link to the thread I posted it in.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...ml#post5518659

ksith

cool maybe if we get enough info we can get this stickied

ksith

Finally after a month it's finished. Got the new master god that thing was a bear to get in. When I was attempting to bleed it there was no pressure and the slave was only moving millimeters if that. So I ended up just removing the slave from the trans and let it out all the way and pushed it back in by hand. Didn't know this but the slave was empty and holy crap a lot of air came out when I pushed it in. Anyways all better just took the car off the jackstands and backed it out of the garage. Going to test drive it once I get home from taking the kid to the library.

m grasso

Sub'd i just picked up a built 350 with3500 miles and a t5 built with ceterforce clutch an fw for 500 beans. I need to track down all the small stuff now.

IROCgiraffe

iTrader: (3)

Subscribed.

Frankie Pinzone

quick question, did you use the same drive shaft from the 700r or one from the donor car?

ksith

either one will work. they are the same length

Frankie Pinzone

sweet, ty

Stangski09

iTrader: (10)

So off the auto shifter, 2 of those wires are the clutch switch, two are the reverse lights?

What sensors need to be added to the manual pedal assembly? Clutch switch and thats all?

Does anything else need to be rewired? Thanks!

ksith

Thats right Stangski09. Nothing else should need to be rewired as long as you have the proper speedo sensor for your speedo. For mine I did need to rewire the dash because my speedo sensor was mechanical in the trans and in the original dash the speedo was electronic. There is a product I could have bought to switch the cable drive to an electric signal but my wife doesnt like me spending a lot of money so a few days research and some tenacity I was able to repin the connections and run the older style dash in my 87

Stangski09

iTrader: (10)

Awesome. Ive been reading a lot t since i posted here. Reverse light wires run to a new sensor in the 5 speed and i have a new 5 speed vss, and two wires run to the new clutch sensor on the pedals.

Wish i had an 89+ and the clutch sensor would be taped up in the kick panel.

Thank you sir!

todd105

Do you have the measurements or something for the holes you drilled for the master cylinder

ksith

I used the old car I took everything off of. That's the best way but other than that. You could probably mount the pedal and note where the linkage goes and make an educated decision from there

alan91z28

See Post 5 in my current project thread, to help you out on this-
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...ort-coupe.html