Im new on trannys but im working on shift kit, the transgo 2-3. I am suppose to plug a hole in the 4th accumulator piston.

Now the issue is, that the instructions show a pic of me plugging the hole under the car as if the hole is visible from below the car looking up at the tranny. I removed the accumulator cover and the springs in order to remove the seporator plate but for some reason I am not seeing this hole they are talking about. Any help or advice? I Have the case, 2 springs, and what i assume is just a case. Unless I have to physically remove that(the piston) also. There seems to be a piston of some sort up in the trans still(the trans is in the car) but Im unsure if and how to take it out.

Besides that the shift kit install is going well. I did take off the metal ring off the servo cover but the cover wont come off. Im not sure if its the rubber o ring holding it back or what.

Would now be a good time to get the vette servo in your guys opinion while Im doing this? The only thing I need to do still is plug one hole in the 4th accumulator piston and take out and replace the parts on the servo. Then back in it all goes.

Thanks again for any help.

 

You need to cut the "blue" colored seal that is behind the cover and pull it out. Now the cover will easily come out. Yes, the piston and pin will have to be removed to see thia.The hole to be plugged is toward the rear of the case. Take a bright light and you will see where it goes. Study your instructions more carefully.

 

Ok thanks dana.

I will add that ive been looking at the instructions very carefully. But there is not much in there about how to take the items apart. Only pictures on how it goes when put back together.

 

Now I have another problem. The second piston is marked 554 at the last of the numbers. Which trans go says DO NOT USE. Great.... Im would guess that this is another qurk that only the V6 trannys have? Just my idea though.

 

I will add that ive had some flares before on this tranny. Not bad but since I redid the engine and turbo set up Ive had it happend a hand full of times and never really knew why. Now i may see why. Make me scared to see what the2-3 and or 2-4 clutch packs look like.

This trans has 113k miles on it, 5k of which are mainly tuning and WOT drag strip miles. I have another one off a stock 3.1L with 104k miles of stock engine on it. I hate to just abandone this trans but I would feel better if I take it out of the car at this point and look it though.

I hate that im so unexperienced with trans. Im just now learning about them which is my downfall.

 

u almost have it done so just put it together and see what it does, the shiftkit should stop the flair , if the trans does go u can swap the kit over to the new trans

 

After doing some research and trying to learn more about these trannys, I just got the vette servo, boost valve, and intermediate valve from pro built. I should have just gotten there kit in the first place. Also to add I need a new rubber o ring anyways for the servo cover. Im not sure why transgo didnt include that item as im sure they only cost pennys.

Reading up on the small servo, i see that the shift kit helps certain issues that the 700r has but using the 554 servo with the kit is just going to create more issues. So ill wait for those parts and then toss it back in.

Im not sure i can transfer the shift kit over to a new as I had to plug a few orfice's into the tranny itself.

 

iused to remove my plugs and transfer them over all the time , till i got tierd of blowing up the stock transmissions and started building them myself with the old tci drag race kits

then again i fi couldnt get the plug out id just go over to my bolt and parts bin at the shop and grab a few new ones to use.never used the shiftkit ur using mut the ones i used used to have u drill and tap a few holes then install allen headed plugs into the passage

 

Ther Corvette servo (093) was introduced by GM to eliminate the 2-3 shift flare at WOT, (not to make the 1-2 shift firmer as is commonly thought) which was common with the 554 servo and less common with the 553 servo. It is the 3rd gear accumulator. The Corvette servo directs more oil to the 3-4 clutch pack, than the 554 or the 553 servo do, thereby eliminating the 2-3 shift flare. Larger boost valves will give it more holding pressure in all the gears. Changing the feed hole sizes in the separator plate will change the rate of the clutch or band apply.

 

Some tips from someone that has done this. Before you remove the boost valve, look into the bore and note the step in the bore (which is not where the snap ring goes).

Find a piece of metal rod about 1/4" - 3/8" in diameter. And long enough to be able to place it up against the bottom of the boost valve, and then wedged onto the garage floor.

This rod is used to hold the new boost valve in place so that the snap ring can be installed. When the new boost valve is inserted into the bore, you will likely need to jiggle it up & down until it goes fully into place. Now wedge it there with the rod, freeing both hands/arms to work on getting the snap ring in place.


The small 554 servo is because it is a V6 transmission. The 'vette servo may or may not work, it did not for me. The transmission was in good condition with low miles. What occurred was that the 2-3 shift bound a bit. This is a timing issue.

The other was on a manual 3-2 shift (down shift) the transmission locked up for but a moment. Causing the car to literately skid on the rear tires. Again a timing issue between the 2/4 band and the 3/4 clutch pack.

I was able to fix this by using a standard V8 553 servo. This provided better timing and holding then the 554 servo, and the correct timing over the 'vette servo.

You won't know until the servo is installed and you test drive the car. The 'vette servo may work out OK. It all depends upon the amount of wear of the transmission.

RBob.

 

Thanks for the tips guys. I really really do appreciate it.

I will try and remove my 2 plugs with orifices in them out of the old tranny. I had a tranny friend look at the packs and help me tear into the trans late last night. Its pretty bad on the old tranny.

The plates are literly starting to bend inwards, and are basically metal on metal. Not much fibers on there if any.

The spare tranny looks ok(at least the clutch packs, planitary gear, exc) This one is the tranny that has 100k miles of stock V6 time on it.

Due to my budget I am going to try and put the shift kit on this good tranny, the boost valve, and the servo, and then pray for the best.

If this doesnt work out at least I can say im going to finally learn more about transmissions either the easy way or the hard way.

 

from someone who has been in this spot a few times with my turbo car , if u smoke the second trans dont spend the money on getting a new one or rebuilding it get a th350 core from the junkyard and have ur friend help u build it its might cost a lil more upfront but it will last and save u money in the long run

like i told u i always kept 2 built 700's and a few cores at my shop , when id burn up a good one id swap in the built spare and rebuild the first one
if i didnt break any hardparts it would cost me around 250 bucks a rebuild, and depending on how much i was racing the car this would be 1-2 times a month id have to rebuild

 

I really wish I had the cash to just build a trans up right becasue now i am worried that im going to toast another one. But that old tranny was stock and acutually didnt even have good external trans cooler on it till last fall.

Honestly I dont know how my car felt as fast as it did by looking at those plates.

Im just going to wait on danas parts and hope for the best.

 

Update:
Thanks to dana at probuilt. Got the items fast and installed them today. Very easy to do. I plan to reinstall the transmission tommorow at some point.

The original boost valve in the tranny was .394 or close to that, from what I measured on the mic. Im assuming that the .500 will help in holding line pressure along with the larger intermediate valve.

 

I didn't realize that you had the trans out of the car, much easier that way.

The main boost valve will increase the line pressure when in manual 3rd & 4th (doesn't matter which gear the transmission is actually in). The intermediate boost valve will increase the line pressure when in manual 1st & 2nd. And it will be higher then when in manual 3rd or 4th.

So..., it is best to place the shifter in manual 2nd for launch and let the 1-2 shift occur where it may. Then near the 2-3 shift point move the shifter to 3rd. Of course can also hold manual 1st then move the shifter for the 1-2 shift, then again for the 2-3 shift.

This provides the highest line pressures.

Note that the TCC will also lock up better with the higher line pressure.

RBob.

 

Wow does the car move now. Very nice positive shifts. Not much of a time delay between shifts as there was a huge on before. No flaring at all. Smooth over all part throttle shifts. The car feels like a complete different monster. I can confidently say this thing will run 12's all day in a few weeks when I can hit the strip.


Thanks for all the help fellas

 

Yep'ers, good to hear that it worked out.

RBob.