evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

iv been having an issue since iv swapped my 2.8 to my 350 vortec. when i go WOT and get to the end of 2nd gear, my moter starts to "woe" and what i mean is that it will just start falling on it face, then catch itsself, then fall again, then catch again all while slowly going faster, it only happens at the end of 2nd or the very beginning of 3rd. well i got to looking today at my detent cable for my 700r4 and i noticed that i have no more adjustment for it, when i have the cable set as per factory spec of pushing the sleeve in then opening the throttle all the way open, my sleeve is all the way out and cant adjust any more, does my issue sound like it could be from the tv cable being slightly not adjusted? should i pick up a universal cable from summit? i have one now for like an 85 carb thirdgen. at first i thought it was fuel but now that iv seen this im wondering if its my trans. suggestions?

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

Try the cable first, see what happens

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Does it sound like that cable is the issue or something else?

jazzdadss

Cable may be different length? 2.8/5.7

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Does the carb open to full WOT? If so, is the cable tight at WOT?

What carb are you using?

Are you using the proper brackets for the cable holder?

Are you using the proper bracket geometry corrector on the carb?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

carb opens fully at WOT, and cable is fully tight but like i said at the end of the adjustment though

using a carter AFB 600

yes, bought off summit, for edelbrock and carter carbs
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-700203/

yes, using the edelbrock throttle cable bracket for vortec heads.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8032/overview/

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

i have one for a v8 installed.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

Im going to go a different route. What kind of fuel pump are you using? If you are using the factory pump with a regulator, did you restrict the return line?

If the throttle goes WOT and there is no more pull in the TV cable, then it is fine.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Using a spectra inline electric fuel pump by the carb. Currently pulling through the intake pump

Gumby

electric pumps only push fuel well, not suck it, all electric pumps should be mounted as close to the tank as you can get it.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

IS it regulated with a return line?

Sounds close to what my car would do before I had a large enough restriction. AT WOT it would start to stumble as the fuel supply wasnt covering the demand.

How bad is it cutting out?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

no, no way for me to run a return line, its an inline pump. i had a malloey 4309 regulator but my stock in tank pump blew it to peices and it was letting all 40 psi into my carb. so i bought a spectra fuel pressure regulator, and put it inline after my new spectra fuel pump

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

it cuts out pretty bad, its more of a flutter though, like has power, loses it, has power, flat line, has power, lose. it just flutters back and fourth like that, even if i back off the pedel it will help, but will start again untill im completely off my pedel

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

You aint floating the valves are you? What rpm does it happen at?

Still sounds like it could be fuel related if that pump isnt capable of supplying what the motor needs.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Its a 5-9 psi pump and I'm thinking the intake pump is making the electric in the bay struggle too much. The rpms happen to be around the 5600 rpm range, near the lighted red line on the tach on a v6 tach. I installed aleks springs and only have a stock lt1 camshaft. So I shouldnt be floating the valves.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

But like I said before. It only happens at the end of 2nd gear or right after I hit third

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

Just because pressure is right doesnt mean that volume is.

Doing it only at the end of 2nd makes me believe even more that it is starving for fuel.

So does it only do it when you are ***** to the wall from 1st through 2nd and then right around shift time into 3rd it cuts out? Never lifted?

Try this, try slowly accelerating up to near the top of 2nd, punch it and see how it does. That cheap spectre pump probably aint giving you the volume needed after pulling through the in-tank pump. Out of curiosity, why are you not using the intank pump only?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

It still does it if I'm off the pedal and stomp it. It'll downshift than do it. And I use to use the intake pump only but it blew my old mallory 4309 regulator to peices and left me stranded so I got the spectra 5-9 psi pimp and their regulator to regulate the fuel and I'm having this issue. Use too with the old pump I would get up into the higher rpms and my car would stop all acceleration. It would just hang up at the end up 2nd gear right at the shift point to go into 3rd.

Gumby

move the pump to the rear where the filter goes.

you then have several feet of fuel under PSI and won't run out of steam, top of 2nd, speed X G/F severaly limits the siphone action taking place that feeds the FP.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

You lost me gumby. I understand about putting my pump where the inline filter is but you lost me on the rest.

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

Hes saying the pressure drops off due to the distance from fuel source to pump.
It doesnt have enough fuel to " push through the rest of the system " because of forces against it.

Gumby

something like that, when you relie on gravity feed for such a long distance. gravity or siphon feed can work very well though. id also run a vented cap or leave it lose.

Had the same problem when I put the built trans in the wagon, it would fall over top of 2nd.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

So putting the pump where my filter is now will help? Is the intake pump causing any restriction or is it fine? And you guys don't think the detent viable has anything to do in this?

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

Did you replace the Fuel injection pump that was in the tank with a carb pickup assembly or are you trying to siphon through a disabled intank fuel injection pump?

I doubt the detent cable has much to do with the issue. If the carb can travel to WOT without bottoming out the tv cable and the tv cable is tight at WOT it should be okay. If you wanted to put a new cable on though there is nothing wrong with that either. It's fairly easy job to do.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

He didnt replace it. He is trying to pull through it.

I would start by pulling the intank pump out.

fireturd350

iTrader: (8)

I've always heard you should never try to pull through a disabled pump. You'll make your inline pump work harder and it'll eventually stress it enough it will wear out.

If you're only having issues with the 2/3 upshift and the beginning of 3rd maybe it could potential transmission issues where the servo is leaking slightly or glazed bands?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

But driving it around town normally it shifts fine through all the gears

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Sure seems to me as if the TV cable is not adjusted properly. I've rebuilt dozens of cars and have never had to fully extend any TV cable. The only time you push the button on the TV cable is to retract it all the way in before making the adjustment.DO NOT push the sleeve WHILE rotating the throttle linkage to full throttle ! Setting the cable by holding the button while rotating the throttle WILL cause the cable to extend to far. Just re-set the cable all the way back inside the sleeve, then rotate the linkage by hand to the WOT position and let the cable "ratchet" out to the proper position on it's own.

Take a test drive and if the adjust the cable IN or OUT depending on how the car shifts. if it needs adjustment IN or OUT,...... then Push the button and move the sleeve only a click or 2 then retest.

A TV cable that is pushed all the way IN the sheath will cause quicker ( lower RPM ) shifts and a earlier downshift

A TV cable that is extended all the way out will cause severely delayed ( Higher RPM shifts) and probably no downshift most of the time.

You probably do have fuel issues too. As others have already pointed out, pulling fuel thru an in-tank pump is a no-no & any electric fuel pump should be mounted in the back near the tank - not the front near the carb.

Re-set the cable properly, drop the tank & pull that old pump out of there, then remove the electric pump from under the hood and place it near the tank like it's supposed to be mounted. That should make a noticeable change in the way the car performs.


Edit:


You do realize that your V6 Tachometer is wildly inaccurate when connected to a V8 engine - right ?!?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

If got the cable set proberly. But the think is, I have no out adjustment. I'm at the end of the cable. I dropped the tank today and took out the pump and am about to put the pump at the back tomorrow.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

Well?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

pulled the old in tank pump out and took it for a spin and it still has a slight flutter but will go into 3rd now and start pulling. i still need to relocate the pump in the engine bay to the rear but i kept it where it was to just verify the old pump was a big issue to my problem. now i just want to find something to make 3rd pull harder. i took a video after i fixed it, i spun nearly all of 1st, chirped second( btw i cant beleve how fast these trans shift out of second) and goes into third and pulls but up towards 4000 rpm on my v6 tach i will start to get a slight flutter but now nearly as bad. could be timing or carb adjustments. im still going to do a universal detent cable just to be on the safe side and make sure i have the cable adjust correctly.