I just installed a Tilton 7/8" bore clutch master in my 86 Camaro and thought I would post up a build thread as there isn't much info out there on this setup.
I have a T56 in my car and just changed it from LT1 style to LS1 style for an LQ4 swap.
A quick look at the LS forums will let you know the benefits of this master over the stock GM one.

I decided against buying the off the shelf units as I like to fabricate and also could not see how they would fit in the 3rd gen although Hawks makes one for the 3rd gen T5..and they say it will fit with massaging the inner fender or redrilling the firewall holes over about 1/2". See pics below for the Hawks one installed. The "black block" Hawks one is in the stock location, the 'silver block' one is in the relocated firewall holes location. I didn't want to do this because of actuator rod angle.

** this setup requires the inner fender to be massaged to fit - see pics.

Option #1: buy Tick Performance Master for $325 that uses Tilton master
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...or-ls1-f-body/

Option#2: buy Hawks Master for $299 that uses Tilton master
http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/pr...inder-Kit.html

Option#3: Make your own for about $120
Parts:
Tilton 7/8" Master Kit Summit #75-875U $89.25
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...875u/overview/
Replaces GM Quick connect to -3AN Speedway Motors #5151396 $14.00
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-an...ing,25017.html
Braided -3an line 36" with straight ends Speedway Motors #91031846 $13.00 (there's not much benefit to using one with a 90° end as the tight spot is the hose wrench flats vs the bottom of the fender massage frame seam ridge.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/T56-Hy...nch,32575.html
**optional
48" Bleeder Speedway Motors #5151399 $13.00
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/T56-Re...der,41385.html
Rod End 3/8"-24 RH Male Shank, 3/8" ID, Carbon-Fiber Insert McMaster Carr #2458K141 $5.39 (this fits perfectly on LS pedals with stock clip)
Steel Coupling Nut 5/16"-24 Thread Size, 1-1/8" Lg, Gr5 Zinc-Pl McMaster Carr #90977A160 $4.67
Steel Coupling Nut 3/8"-24 Thread Size, 1-3/4" Lg, Gr5 Zinc-Pl McMaster Carr #90977A170 $4.77
4 xM6 Bolts & Nuts
1/8" steel plate

See pics and drawing for details. I rotated the master about 15° for a little more fitting clearance..it's tight!
It's hard to see the fender massage, but I'd estimate it needed to go in about 1/2" at the most. It needs to push in right along the top of the frame seam ridge, that runs about an inch above the frame rail.

 

Parts & more pics

 

More pics including install & fender massage.

 

More pics.
Can also see the Astro steering shaft and bearing swap in the pics. That upgrade is also a must-do.

 

Install & Hawks installed

 

more Hawks pics

Silver block firewall holes are re-drilled. They said the fender doesn't need to be massaged. I didn't want to do this because of actuator rod angle.

 

Nice work!

 

Awsome write up man

 

Nice write up.

Some great information.

 

do the fittings you show with the flat rubber washer also fit the t5 slave and master? i want to get rid of the @#$%^&* tube!

 

Don't know..I'm not familiar with T5 stuff. it says it will fit the LT1 T56 slave though.

 

Did you fabricate the bracket to mount the master to the fire wall? Nice write up btw.

 

Yes, look at the attachment in post #1.

 

Ok I wasn't sure if you had got that from hawks. Guess my reading comprehension is lacking! Looks pretty straight forward to make. My car is an '83 with mechanical clutch linkage.....but I have a complete 3rd gen hydraulic clutch pedal assembly I am gonna use. This write up is definitely is a money and time saver. Thanks!

 

The rod end is not RH thread. The rod end that goes onto the pedal is LH 3/8-24

Should update this

 

Not sure why you think it's a LH thread. It mates into a RH thread rod coupler..
All the threads are RH from the master to the pedal for this design.

 

Pics? Tick master and others are RH and LH thread between the coupler to allow adjustability. If they were both RH thread you would not be able to adjust the length.

For lengths to be adjustable you need opposing threads between two objects and a coupler.

 

To adjust this setup you can rotate the rod going into the Tilton, so you don't need opposing threads.

 

Gotcha, so youre not using the coupler as an adjusting point, only for attachment. You actually have to remove the rod end from the pedal, adjust, then put it back on unlike the hawks or tick setup

Or you could adjust just the master end but youre not getting full range adjustment from the rod end and master end. Whatever works I guess

 

I know this thread is very old, but I am interested in making this bracket. The diagram you provided in the original post doesn't seem to have enough information to replicate the design. You don't include several key measurements and the pictures are not the most helpful. Do you happen to have any more information?

Thank you!

 

I don't think the opinions shared in this thread align with what is common experience. Generally, the Tick master cylinder bolts up to the firewall just fine. It is made specifically for a 4th gen car, and rotating the top cap will improve hose routing from reservoir on your 3rd gen.

These things are made by Tilton and use an 875 series master cylinder with 1 inch stroke. Don't order directly from the Tick website. Instead, talk to Tilton about which part number master cylinder will work best with your clutch, and then call in the order to Tick and tell them what Tilton master cylinder part number you want with your purchase. Otherwise you'll get whatever Tick uses by default which may not be best for your application.

Usually people swap out to 4th gen pedals because it has the correct size pin for the rod end that will come in the kit, but also because the pedals have a travel limiter. The travel limiter keeps you from bottoming the plunger in the master cylinder.

 

I don’t have any more info. What are you missing for dimensions?