I just installed the T-56 master and slave cylinder setup - new GM setup that comes pre-bled for 94-97 camaro LT1's. I am using a pedal assembly from another thirdgen and for some reason I am having some huge alignment issues. See attached pics.

The clutch pedal needs to be pulled wayyy to far forward to line up the hole in the pedal to the end of the master cylinder rod. Anyone know why this is happening? What can I do here, I am thinking I just make a little bracket to make up for the large offset.

I also tried to install the stock 3rd gen auto drive shaft into the tail of the T-56 and cannot get the drive shaft on. I thought its supposed to fit and does not require any modifications. Am i right and maybe I am just having trouble lining up the splines?

Please let me know your thoughts.

 

I think you need 4th gen pedals or t5 master and slave set.

 

It's normal to have the clutch pedal farther forward then the break pedal, to fix that you can make your rod adjustible and have it moved back to the normal position.

Here is a link to how to make your rod adjustible https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...tment-t56.html

For your drive shaft problem mine fit fine not sure why your having a problem.

 

Thanks Tony - sounds like a good idea... what size tap did you use and where did you get it? Is it hard to tap the master cylinder rod? I have never used a tap to make a threaded rod but I have used taps to thread holes...

The tap is probably expensive as well right? May be cheaper to just cut and weld on two 3/8" threaded rods but might not be as strong then...


I think I just need to spend more time under the car with the driveshaft. its a pain doing this while laying on the floor and the car on jack stands.

 

You can get a whole tap and die set for pretty cheap these days. You will need a 3/8" NC16 die and pretty much same procedure to thread the rod as it would be to tap something, just keep it straight and level.

I'll repost the pic's that shows everything again.

 

If you can weld that would be a cheap option just don't cut out a big chunck of rod, start small and see where the pedal will lines up before you weld.

 

Thanks Tony. Going to run out and try to buy the die set today. Will keep you posted if I run into other problems and/or if I get it working.

 

You drilled a new hole in a new location. I don't know why.

The hole that was already drilled is where the master cylinder goes in stock T5 cars. If you use it, the pedal stud will meet up with the master cylinder rod without a problem.

The hole in your car may have been used for wiring or vaccuum line used for cruise. Find another place to run it.

As for your driveshaft slip yoke - what trans. was in the car before? What outside diameter is the slip yoke? Is your output on the trans. 27 spline?

 

The existing hole u see there is for who knows what. And no the master does not belong there because if I put it there it is no where near the clutch pedal. Where i cut the hole for the master as I have now is the factory location because I mounted up factory 3rd gen pedals for locating the drill holes so I am in the right place.

I got me the die I need and am going to proceed with cutting and threading the master cylinder rod.

The driveshaft was from my 700R4/305TPI. So it should fit, I just dont think I tried enough. Might not have lined things up right. But its not supposed to just slide in with zero effort is it?

 

Id rather make sure that I got complete disengagement than start chopping out rod length. But that's just me.

 

I misunderstood your second picture.

Do you have the pedal bracket lined up to the original 4 brake booster holes in the firewall?

 

Yup. I lined up the 4 holes for the brake booster attachment through the firewall and through the pedal assembly then marked out holes for the clutch pedal.

I am not running a booster so now I had an aluminum plate made to attach the wilwood master to the firewall in the same location.

Not sure why I am having this problem because I know for a fact people on this board are using thirdgen pedals with a 4th gen T-56 and 4-th gen T-56 hydraulics.

Vortex is right that I should check engagement first. I could cut the rod and thread it and make it adjustable from the current length to 1" shorter. But what if I ONLY get full engagement with how it is right now... Not sure what to do then - guess I have to make some sort of bracket to make up for the large offset or weld something onto the clutch pedal assembly to attach the master cylinder rod to?

 

All 4 of my t-56 clutches released at the top of the pedal movement, I'am sure you will be fine.