Clutch return spring question
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Manitoba, Canada
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: stock
Clutch return spring question
Simple question, and I've seen some related threads but no solid answers...should there be a return spring on T5 hydraulic clutch pedals? I'm really hoping there should be, because my car doesn't have one and I think it could be a problem solver. From what I understand, cruise control could be restored (that hasn't worked for years). Right now, the pedal has about 2 inches of travel between hitting the upper stop and engaging the pushrod, totally unrestricted movement. I think a spring would take out this slack. I can see where the spring would attach to the pedal bracket, but I'm not sure where it would go on the pedal. There is a large hole in the pedal shaft, but it's so close to the stationary bracket that you'd need a very short spring (which is still capable of very long stretches without deforming when disengaging clutch). Please help, this could be a big deal for me!
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,521
Likes: 91
From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Re: Clutch return spring question
None stock.
I thought the cruise switch was adjustable just like a brake switch. And the piggybacked vaccuum switch should be too.
What have you done to troubleshoot the actual problem?
I thought the cruise switch was adjustable just like a brake switch. And the piggybacked vaccuum switch should be too.
What have you done to troubleshoot the actual problem?
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 187
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From: Manitoba, Canada
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: Clutch return spring question
Cruise control operation isn't my primary issue, I should have explained further. My true problem is that the clutch pedal has feedback in the first bit of it's travel, before it begins to firm up and disengage the clutch. Sometimes it's a little bump, sometimes a pulse, and there is really no specific driving situation which makes this happen. My thought was that a spring would possibly help by reducing the pedal flop. I don't think (hope) that it's a warped or otherwise damaged clutch since most of the pedal travel feels fine. It's just the first bit where the pedal is still pretty soft that has got me annoyed. My Haynes manual shows a spring in the hydraulic clutch schematic, and lists removing the return spring as one of the steps in removing the clutch pedal (not that those manuals are always 100% correct).
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
From: Manitoba, Canada
Car: 91 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: Clutch return spring question
Now I'm really confused. Called my local GM dealer, on their parts diagram there is no spring. Is that 2 inches of pedal play normal? I know the feedback I'm getting through the pedal isn't.
I've got a new master coming, for the price it just makes sense to give it a shot. The slave is fairly new. Could this type of problem be caused by a worn out master cylinder?
Thanks!
I've got a new master coming, for the price it just makes sense to give it a shot. The slave is fairly new. Could this type of problem be caused by a worn out master cylinder?
Thanks!
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,521
Likes: 91
From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Re: Clutch return spring question
Look at the upper pushrod mounted to a stud on the clutch pedal and whether that is loose.
Also, the upper pushrod is round as it sets against the piston in the master cylinder; nothing really retains it other than the rubber boot atop the master cylinder body. So if that's loose, and you're missing the cruise cutout switch, it'll seem loose. Add and adjust a switch; that little bit of switch might take up 2" at the pedal end.
Also, the upper pushrod is round as it sets against the piston in the master cylinder; nothing really retains it other than the rubber boot atop the master cylinder body. So if that's loose, and you're missing the cruise cutout switch, it'll seem loose. Add and adjust a switch; that little bit of switch might take up 2" at the pedal end.
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