PLEASE HELP!
Im about to go insane with this thing. Here is the story on my 87. The clutch master was leaking so I replaced it, ever since then the clutch has been on the bottom of the pedal. I have bled and bled it and nothing has changed still. Is there a way to put a brake bleeder on the slave so a vacuum can be applied? also would installing a 4th gen braided line perhaps help it? Or could it perhaps be something else causing the problem?

 

When you bled it, did you let the slave cylinder hang down? Air bubbles have lots of places to hang out, so you have to "help" them along whenever you open the system.

Open your reservoir, let the slave hang down and use it to pump the fluid back toward the master cylinder while tapping on the line. Pushing the fluid backwards like this will force the majority of the air to the reservoir, and tapping on the slave and the line will encourage any bubbles to break free. You can check your work by blocking the slave piston with a steering wheel puller and pushing on the pedal. If it isn't rock hard, you're not finished yet. If it is and you still have clutch issues, the problem lies elsewhere.

 

Thanks for replying.
This weekend when I bled it i compressed it all the way with a C-Clamp and then broke the bleeder loose (was not hanging) then tightened the bleeder back up and released it. I feel like it helped a little bit but im not 100% sure. Also as a side point the slave has never extended far enough to brake the little plastic tabs that are supposed to brake. Do you still believe its air in the slave?

 

Did you replace the master, slave or both?

You said master then referenced the slave.

If you replaced the slave I generally fill them with fluid with them tilted down at a 45 degree angle and pump the rod. This get a lot of air out then I install them and pump them at a 45 again while checking the fluid level.

 

You got air in the master, and that needs to be bled out of the car. It sit's at a slight angle and trying to 'pump' the air out or vacuum it out doesn't work. Put it in a vice or secure the master so you can cycle the push rod in and out safely. This won't take alot to get all the air out. The most time is removing and re-installing the master.
Be sure to cap off the line so you don't lose fliud and get more air into the system when installing.

 

You can use this method without removing the master cylinder.

 

Midias
I replaced the master due to it leaking but the slave was pretty much new and I never busted the straps on it to begin with. So basically Im bleeding the whole system.

 

Is there a way to do the bench bleed method and reinstall everything without having to take it apart again?

 

Taking it apart after bench bleeding defeats the purpose of bleeding it. Any time you open the system up, air is introduced and must be bled out. You can do this on the car or on a bench. Either way, just follow the process in the above video (if doing it on the car, you still follow the same steps, just make sure the slave is hanging down as you will be using the car as the "bench".)

As a side note, if you decide to install it as a unit, the easiest way to access the firewall is by moving the brake master out of the way. If you go that route, DO NOT open the brake lines or you will have to bleed that system as well. If you are careful, the lines will have enough flex to allow you to get your arms in there.

 

Going to give this a try today if I can if not then over the weekend probably. I will let everyone know how it goes!

 

That video that was posted is exactly how it is done. The master is where your problem lies because air is trapped in it because of the way it's mounted on the car. If you can get the part where the line to the slave pointed up and then bleed. You should be able to get all the air out of the system.