On a 700R4/4L60/4L60E if I just want to quickly replace the frictions and seals, I don't have to remove the valve body right? Just remove everything out the front and re-assmemble ?

I've got a trans that slips when cold, ***** fine when hot. I think the lip seals are gone.

-- Joe

 

if you can get the band off of the band anchor you possibly can. if not the valve body will have to come off.

question, why would you not want to take the valve body off? when you have the transmission that far apart is an excellent time to clean it. taking it off isn't difficult.

 

Takes 2 people to reinstall VB right without spilling ckeck ***** or tearing gaskets or some other grief.

 

then i guess i have been doing it wrong all these years. assembly lube is cheap and if in a jam can use vaseline. the transmission is going to be out to do what he wants to do anyway. gravity won't be an issue. transmission builders do it all the time solo.

 

I've done shift kits to 5 700R-4s now, 2 200-4Rs, 3 TH350s, and 2 4L60Es. Never had a helper, always needed one. Whether or not the trans is in the car or upside down on my engine stand, it's a 2-person job.

 

then all the transmission guys around the world must be doing it wrong. i've never needed the help. the guys who build where i work at don't need the help. if you have never had a helper and done the job, a second person is not needed. assembly lube works wonders.

 

Joe, be sure and have your robot programmed to lend a second hand. I wish I had a robot.

 

All?

Stop trying to win arguments you started, stop trying to bash. If you and a few others can, then good for you. I KNOW I'm not alone, so pipe down before you look any more foolishly arrogant. Or learn to enjoy a life of no friends worth calling friends.

 

I've done it as well, using grease or vasoline to hold the check *****. Still sucks.

I was thinking of just taking it all out the front, replacing the seals and wear parts, and putting it back together.

I put a used trans in the car over the winter, but second slips. I don't know if it's the servo or the band. It has 4th gear. The original trans worked fine other than the slippage when cold. 99% sure it's a piston seal leaking until it heats up and expands.


-- Joe

 

Hi Joe ,

last year I pulled an old 700R4 apart just to get a look at all the parts and I made the sticky thread "pictures of every part of a 700R4" . I was able to remove the innards behind the pump without removing the valve body first (leaving the anchor pin in place) . Now of course the pan has to come off to remove the pump as the lockup solenoid and the metal tube connecting the pump to the valve body also need removal before the pump is pulled . Once those two are removed you can pull the pump and then lift the input shaft/clutches out . Can't remember if there is a snap ring involved in lifting the reaction shell out , but I think I remember taking that out first and then the band .

 

I'm more familiar with TH350s. The trans I have in the car right now slips in second. It seems to have 4th though.

I will review your thread. Thanks!

-- Joe

 

so you get butthurt and i'm the one who looks foolish? i simply answered the OP's question then ask him another. you jumped in with the BS.

you might not be alone. however, it is more than a few others. i'm talking any professional transmission builder.
i'm also not trying to bash. just pointing out that a second person is not NEEDED. does it make it easier...possibly.

 

why would a second person be needed to put a valve body back on a transmission? vaseline holds the little checkballs in place just fine..

 

I really don’t think 87zjeff was trying to bash anyone, and he wasn’t out of line in any way. It DOSNT take two people to install a Valve body and trans jel works wonders. Get educated and have respect for the people who have been doing this for probably as many years as you are old. I mean, the question was about removing the input drum without dropping the valve body and you come out with it takes two people to install a valve body which is just preposterous and you seem very naive. Anyway, about removing the input drum without removing the valve body, as long as you can get the band loose enough to get the drum out and then back in.
Also, sorry about the rant and I know this thread is a little old but it just irritates me when people who don’t know what they are talking about chime in with dumb “@&$ that has nothing to do with the topic.