So I fixed the vaccum modulater on my 82 berlinetta....

Now she lost the torque/power.

Could it be another vacuum hose somewhere?

 

Tell us exactly what you did to fix the modulator, and what you mean by "lost the torque and power".

No, probably not another vac hose, with the possible exception of the one to the MAP sensor.

 

Well the hose to the vaccum modulator was not on properly
3rd advised me to check the modulator and that fixed the issue with not changing gears in time and unless it was reclined...

Now the car has lost its power going up hills and such when usually it is a beast .
She drives like my old pt cruiser .

The altinator is getting old I know I have to replace that tomorrow.
but would that have something to do with the power loss?

 

When I get on the car it should have a good torque considering its a 350 turbo but there is no take off it just slowly accelerates

 

Also the man I bought it from has bolts in the 4 hoses coming from the carb and they are cut off short I have left them because I do not have the money to put it in the shop at the moment.

 

"350 turbo" is not related to "torque" in any way.

It's a transmission; it merely transmits the engine's torque to the rest of the drive train.

Sounds like maybe now, with the vac mod hooked up right, it tends to be in too high of a gear all the time. (shifts too soon, doesn't downshift when it should) Might want to try adjusting it. The adj screw is inside the hose fitting; takes about a 1/8" screwdriver to turn it. Adjust it inward to raise and harden the shift points, outward to lower and soften.

There are 4 vac mods available for that transmission. 3 of them are utter crap, not sure why they even exist. They are: the big black can; and the small gold can, with a magenta, a green, or a red stripe. The one to get is the one with a red stripe. Not any of the others; RED STRIPE. If you have any of the others, get rid of it, and get the small gold can with a RED STRIPE. I don't know of any way to look that up, but if you go to the parts store and look up vacuum modulators for 60s and 70s cars, those are what you'll get; just open th ebox and look until you find the part # for the red stripe kind. You'll probably have better luck if you look up things like a 70½ Z28, 69 Chevelle SS396, 70 Corvette, etc. The "strong runners" of the day.

Pop quiz: what color stripe are you looking for?

 

Thank you for your tine, Alright I shall try this.
So the 350 turbo basically is just a name?

 

Red stripe.
I just should have beeen a mechanic in stead of wasting my time In computer trouble shooting lol

 

Precisely.

What else would it be?

The full name is actually Turbo-Hydramatic 350.

Is what I said, what it's doing?

 

I believe it's just a vacum leak.
She idles great sounds good but when I go to take off she doesn't want to get on it I can get it up to 35 mph and it slowly accelerates from there...

 

What gear is it in when it takes off? What gear is it in at 35 mph?

Can't be a vac leak. THIMK... when you're accelerating, there's no vacuum to leak.

Vac leaks cause terrible idle and problems cruising; CANNOT cause problems when vacuum is low. (that is, high load, aka driver demands lots of power)

 

It changes to first n second fine but when it come to 3rd it doesn't want to accelerate

 

Sound slike EXACTLY the engine has drained all the gas out of the carb and has run out of fuel by that time then. Not anything to do with the transmission.

Simplest thing to do is to catch it in the act of screwing up, and see how much fuel is in the carb at that instant.

Find a place where you can force it into the screw-up situation reliably. Going up a llllloooooooonnnnnnnng hill on the highway for example. Do that; then when you get to a place you can turn in, cut the gas pedal and the ignition AT THE SAME TIME. You absolutely DO NOT want to let the engine idle AT ALL during this test. Make sure when you turn the engine off that you go to "Off", NOT "Lock"!!!! The idea being, you want to preserve the EXACT state of fill that the carb was in at as it was screwing up. You MUST MUST MUST MUST MUST MUST NOT let the engine idle or the car drag the engine, either of which will allow the fuel system to potentially replenish the carb under the low-demand situation even though it was unable to keep it supplied during the high fuel demand condition.

Pull off the side of the road into a safe place (parking lot etc.) and pop the top of the carb of if it's a Q-jet or Carter, or pull the bottom driver's side bowl screw and let it drain into a paint can top or the like if it's a Holley. See how much fuel is in the carb. If you don't have a good feel for how much is supposed to be in there, do the EXACT SAME thing, except after sitting in the driveway idling for acoupla minutes. The same amount of fuel should be in the carb no matter what. If it's different (less during the uphill test than the driveway test) then you have a fuel delivery problem.

Fuel filter, fuel pump, pickup tube in gas tank full of crusties and funk from sitting up (looking at the car in the pic, that would be my bet... but start with a fuel filter).

 

Yeah turbo 350 or 350 turbo is just the shortened name of the installed transmission.

Like sofa said... It's called a Turbo-Hydramatic 350, which gets shortened to TH-350 or turbo 350.

Can you post some pictures of your engine? Some times a picture is worth 1,000 words.

 

The only pictures I got at this moment are where I put some valve seals in it....
2weeks ago

 

 

Ok let me start over I bought the berlinetta 3 weeks ago from a boy on wise va.
Said hey nothing is wrong with it brand new motor and trans little cosmetic damage blah blah blah...
had it checked out by a mechanic said car was fine was in damn good shape to be 82

So I drive it home and 4 days later it started knocking like no oil knock....
Sure enough there was NO oil in it...come to find out it had a oil pan gasket leak a very bad one so bad I used 3 5 quart jugs in 2 days ...
So we go that fixed asap
Than a week later it stayed smoking really bad like a constant blue smoke so we open up the valve cover NO VALAVE SEALS ON ANY VALVE no exhaust umbrellas...
The spark plugs were so badly oils up and corroded no-one had changed them in a long a** time replaced a 80% of the gaskets on the car.
the exhaust system is welded to the car across the oil pan etc.

now I have fixed all of this besides the fact it needs a new alternator.....

The day I posted the first post about the trans not changing gears unless it is red lined or revved up I asked 3rd gen.
A comment was posted to check the vacuum modulator.
So with the help of the neighbor we found the vacuum modulator the hose was not on properly now since I have fixed that issue it seems as it does not want to to go like it has no power.
No power going up hills
The gears will change 2 xs before it has this problem so in 3rd gear it has no power it does not want to accelerate any faster than 35-40 mph.
I have ran out of money to put it in the shop where I had it in the shop for the seal and oil leak...
Thus I am here asking questions an doing it myself.

 

I will post some tomorrow before work

 

Now before I fixed the vacuum modulator she was a beast barley touch the gas pedal an she took off squealing tire.
accelerating good an on key very fast

(Though I like fast I do not drag this car I have put 4k in this car an I am trying to restore it but I have seen what she can do)

Now she is not like that is more of just barley throw a few gravel, an even than the gas pedal is being being pressed further than it should be for that action.
I am at a loss at this point.

 

 

I fixed it guys...
Vacuum advance/ no vacuum

 

I was just fixing to post that! Last thing you did was hook up vac mod valve.. Means vac line close to the dist. Easy to knock off a vac advance line from dist and also easy to bump the dist. and move it which would change your timing.

So you might want to check your timing too just to make sure.

 

Yes yes adjusted the timing as well
She's good to get on it now!
Thank you guys for your help!

I'll probly have another question one day lol
Oh and the alternator is actually good just a bad battery cable I was looking at it today an it seems to be kinda to big for the battery post so I'll be fixing that tomorrow.

 

I suggest getting rid of the mechanical Rochester and getting a vacuum secondary Holley 700 cfm carb.

 

Yes I'll be doing this soon.
Already thought about it....