Please Help with a bad Vibe.
Please Help with a bad Vibe.
I have a bad vibration I cant get rid of. About 6 months ago I went from 3.08 to a 4.10. Also installed a zexel torsen Posi, and new axles. the Vibration is only slightly noticeable crusing around town. Down the Hiway It is a little worse , Down the freeway is terrible. I cant go any faster than 60.
Here are some clues that might help.
It does not matter what gear i am in.
It is not related to engine RPM's
I Have already tried balancing the drivline.
I bought new tires and rims.
New Tranny mount.
New Clutch (t56)
The vibration Is 10 times worse when I press in the clutch. When I accelerate or slow down the vibration is not as bad. When I maintain the throttle and I am not going up or down a hill it is worse.
Please help if you can It getting expensive
Here are some clues that might help.
It does not matter what gear i am in.
It is not related to engine RPM's
I Have already tried balancing the drivline.
I bought new tires and rims.
New Tranny mount.
New Clutch (t56)
The vibration Is 10 times worse when I press in the clutch. When I accelerate or slow down the vibration is not as bad. When I maintain the throttle and I am not going up or down a hill it is worse.
Please help if you can It getting expensive
Well it seems to be from the driveshaft back. What do you mean that it is 10 times worse when you step on the clutch? The driveline is giong the same speed either way. Remeber too that the driveshaft is going considerably faster than it used to. Have you tried swapping in another driveshaft to see what happens? Perhaps it is slightly bent?
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From: Houston Area
Car: Faster
Engine: Than
Transmission: You!
You need an aluminum driveshaft (NEW) not used. I used to have real bad vibration from 110mph to 150mph. I took my stock steel shaft to a driveshaft company and they spin balanced it. Now it's only slightly noticable during that high of a speed. I'm getting an aluminum Emperial Driveline shaft from summit, (I think thats the name of the company that makes it). It will cure it for good and free up 5-8hp according to Horse Power TV. Hey whats going on. I had same damn problem (to the T) after my t56 swap. I went out and got a used aluminum LS1 driveshaft out of a 01 SS, and the problem went away. Just bring it to a driveshaft shop and have balanced before using USED parts, but there is nothing wrong with used, especially when you can get it for a price of $40. I delayed for months, not thinking it was the shaft, but I got a great price and went with it. The vibs that I had before Alum DS did do some damage to my 9" though, and I will be rebuilding that this spring. So dont wait, just get a shaft, I think you can get a nice LS1 (3" diam) new from any chevy dealer for like $250 or something, or you can check some local junkers. Good Luck,
Joe
Joe
Here is a guy on the forum selling one. This is a great shaft, I polished mine up, and it looks sick under there.
Hope this helps,
Joe
'91 Formula
Senior Member
Registered: Nov 1999
Location: Lk. Ronkonkoma, N.Y., U.S.A.
Posts: 149
FS: 3" 4TH Gen Aluminum Driveshaft
Since the classifieds are closed, I figured I would post this here:
Brand new ordered from GM. Its the new design, non tinking one. Asking $200.00 neg. plus shipping. Fits 1982 to 2002 F-body. Email:battagli@ilcddc.com
Hope this helps,
Joe
'91 Formula
Senior Member
Registered: Nov 1999
Location: Lk. Ronkonkoma, N.Y., U.S.A.
Posts: 149
FS: 3" 4TH Gen Aluminum Driveshaft
Since the classifieds are closed, I figured I would post this here:
Brand new ordered from GM. Its the new design, non tinking one. Asking $200.00 neg. plus shipping. Fits 1982 to 2002 F-body. Email:battagli@ilcddc.com
What driveshaft are you running. I had same problems as above, and also had driveline balanced. Turned up nothing, as well as wasted cash on new u-joints. I finally broke down (for $40) and got an aluminum driveshaft. This fixed all my problems. When I mean I had same problems, I mean I know exactly what you are going through, clutch pushed in while crusing(baad!!!), give gas(go away, not totally), coast in gear(vibes, not as bad as with clutch pushed in or neutral when coasting).
I had the same to a T. Get aluminum, and Id bet it would go away.
Joe
I had the same to a T. Get aluminum, and Id bet it would go away.
Joe
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1987gta,
It is good to talk to somone who can relate. I have visited a handfull of shops and when I tell them about the Vibration they look at me like im crazy.
I am using the stock steel driveline that came with the 89 camaro.
It is good to talk to somone who can relate. I have visited a handfull of shops and when I tell them about the Vibration they look at me like im crazy.
I am using the stock steel driveline that came with the 89 camaro.
AustinT,
Yep, I had same problem. Steel shaft sucks, I think GM had a recall on them when used with LT1. They were replaced with the aluminum 3" shafts, with an additional weight on it. I had the stock shaft in for about a year, and with it came those vibration problems. I didnt have those problems with T5 in it, just after the t56 went in. Im almost 100% sure that an aluminum ds will get that vibration out. Especially if you had everything else ruled out. Its not a waste of money either, very nice piece to have, and lets you rev faster. There is no immense difference, but at least you will know that you have a great shaft in there. Polish it up a bit, and it will look really cool while on a lift too!
Good luck, hope this helps,
Joe
Yep, I had same problem. Steel shaft sucks, I think GM had a recall on them when used with LT1. They were replaced with the aluminum 3" shafts, with an additional weight on it. I had the stock shaft in for about a year, and with it came those vibration problems. I didnt have those problems with T5 in it, just after the t56 went in. Im almost 100% sure that an aluminum ds will get that vibration out. Especially if you had everything else ruled out. Its not a waste of money either, very nice piece to have, and lets you rev faster. There is no immense difference, but at least you will know that you have a great shaft in there. Polish it up a bit, and it will look really cool while on a lift too!
Good luck, hope this helps,
Joe
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
Likes: 0
From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Originally posted by 1987gta
Steel shaft sucks, I think GM had a recall on them when used with LT1. They were replaced with the aluminum 3" shafts, with an additional weight on it.
Steel shaft sucks, I think GM had a recall on them when used with LT1. They were replaced with the aluminum 3" shafts, with an additional weight on it.
Last edited by Matt87GTA; Dec 20, 2001 at 10:41 PM.
Did some more test today. I put the car up on blocks, feels like it always has a little vibration. I slowly accelerate and grab higher gears. finnaly I reach 6th gear and ease into the throttle. at 2000 rpms I back out because it feels like something is going to come apart. Next I pull both rear wheels and drums, Vibration is the same ( Its not the Tires or rims) I decide to try rotating the drivline 180 degrees, Vibration is the same.
Then I give it throttle in High gear while Dad is under the car whatching the drivline. "it Looks Ok" He says. He crawls out and gets a wrench to rest on the drivline while it spins. He cannot hold the wrench on the drivline. From inside the car I hear a ting, Ting, Ting. Then he holds the wrench against the end of the axle and it is nice and smooth.
Looks like the drivline like you all have said, But ive a couple of questions.
1. How Can the drivline be so far off just after it was balanced?
2.Can it be bent and balanced at the same time?
3.My T56 came out of a wrecked camaro. The tranny looks great from the outside and shifts smooth. But could the output shaft still be bent?
4. Would I hurt anthing if I jacked up the back of the car, Pull the drivline off and ran the car to feel for vibrations?
5. Is there any way the yoke on the rearend is out of balance.
Thanks everybody
Then I give it throttle in High gear while Dad is under the car whatching the drivline. "it Looks Ok" He says. He crawls out and gets a wrench to rest on the drivline while it spins. He cannot hold the wrench on the drivline. From inside the car I hear a ting, Ting, Ting. Then he holds the wrench against the end of the axle and it is nice and smooth.
Looks like the drivline like you all have said, But ive a couple of questions.
1. How Can the drivline be so far off just after it was balanced?
2.Can it be bent and balanced at the same time?
3.My T56 came out of a wrecked camaro. The tranny looks great from the outside and shifts smooth. But could the output shaft still be bent?
4. Would I hurt anthing if I jacked up the back of the car, Pull the drivline off and ran the car to feel for vibrations?
5. Is there any way the yoke on the rearend is out of balance.
Thanks everybody
I have been emailing Dennys driveshafts. I do not have any experience with their driveshafts but they said they could build a steel shaft that would be balanced at the Rpms I need.
Has anybody ever Used one of their shafts?
Has anybody ever Used one of their shafts?
I Put a dial indicator on the driveline today. These are the results.
The Dial Indicator was placed on the transmission slip yoke by the tranny seal. .005 runout
Half way down the drivline = .040
End of drivline by the Universal joint= .032
Yoke of rearend .005
Oh one more thing, The weight that the drivline shop welded on is on the High side of shaft?
The Dial Indicator was placed on the transmission slip yoke by the tranny seal. .005 runout
Half way down the drivline = .040
End of drivline by the Universal joint= .032
Yoke of rearend .005
Oh one more thing, The weight that the drivline shop welded on is on the High side of shaft?
hey AustinT,
The driveshaft shop that I went to also welded weight on the same side. I brought back ds after i noticed vibs. He moved the weight to other side, and re-balanced. Made no difference though. There was a slight dif when I spun shaft 180 deg (one way was just a little better), but vibs were still there. All I did was change shaft and BAM!! no more vibs. Maybe you can find somebody in your area that has alum DS, and test in car. Im sure you too will feel the difference that it makes.
Later,
Joe
The driveshaft shop that I went to also welded weight on the same side. I brought back ds after i noticed vibs. He moved the weight to other side, and re-balanced. Made no difference though. There was a slight dif when I spun shaft 180 deg (one way was just a little better), but vibs were still there. All I did was change shaft and BAM!! no more vibs. Maybe you can find somebody in your area that has alum DS, and test in car. Im sure you too will feel the difference that it makes.
Later,
Joe
I emailed Denny's Drive Shop in NY.
I wrote:
Hi. I have a 89 camaro with a zz430 clone, The Motor makes 430 Hp at the crank. Transmission is a t56. Rearend Is the stock 10 bolt with a HD Zexel Torsen Posi, Aftermarket axels and Richmond 4.10 gears. In the Future I will add a Ati Procharger. I am currently using the stock Driveshaft for the 89 camaro. After swapping the 3.08 gears for the 4.10 gears I now have a bad Vibration. The vibration starts at about 3000 rpms (Drivline speed) I took my current drivline to the shop to have it balanced and now the vibration is worse. The same day I took the drivline back to the shop to have them balance it again and they said it would be a waste of money. How well balanced are your drivlines? A lot of people told me to go with an aluminum driveline because they are better balanced at higher speeds. I would Like to keep a steel shaft for the strenght. What are my options? ThanksAustin
They replied:
I Think Ill try one of their steel driveshafts.
I wrote:
Hi. I have a 89 camaro with a zz430 clone, The Motor makes 430 Hp at the crank. Transmission is a t56. Rearend Is the stock 10 bolt with a HD Zexel Torsen Posi, Aftermarket axels and Richmond 4.10 gears. In the Future I will add a Ati Procharger. I am currently using the stock Driveshaft for the 89 camaro. After swapping the 3.08 gears for the 4.10 gears I now have a bad Vibration. The vibration starts at about 3000 rpms (Drivline speed) I took my current drivline to the shop to have it balanced and now the vibration is worse. The same day I took the drivline back to the shop to have them balance it again and they said it would be a waste of money. How well balanced are your drivlines? A lot of people told me to go with an aluminum driveline because they are better balanced at higher speeds. I would Like to keep a steel shaft for the strenght. What are my options? ThanksAustin
They replied:
Your email is one that we have seen many times. This is a very common problem and common question. We agree... your stock shaft is in fact a waste of time for your application. Your application requires a driveshaft that is built much better than any stock shaft was designed to be. The OEM shafts are good to usually 3500 rpm. Some do better some do worse. Most driveline shops do not have or need "high dollar" High Speed balance equipment. Our shafts are HIGH SPEED balanced and tested. This means that there is no guess work built into our driveshafts. Our STEEL can be just as smooth as our ALUMINUM in your application. Aluminum is not necessary to cure your problem. Our Heavy Duty steel shaft costs $265.95 complete and the HD Aluminum costs $450.95 and both will run smooth for you. The steel is strong and cheaper in cost. Please see our DIAGRAM "B" at our web site http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/ if you decide to order. Also please read the "Heavy Duty" steel shaft section and also the "HD Aluminum" section to make your decision. Thanks, Tech Dept.
I Think Ill try one of their steel driveshafts.
AustinT,
Looks to be a good choice. Steel may be a better shaft for you anyways. Dennys is a great shop that puts out excellent products, so I would not worry about making a bad choice here. Good luck and enjoy some vib free driving.
Joe
Looks to be a good choice. Steel may be a better shaft for you anyways. Dennys is a great shop that puts out excellent products, so I would not worry about making a bad choice here. Good luck and enjoy some vib free driving.
Joe
damn you got me thinking....mine shakes pretty bad when i get up to speed but when im going under 45 or so its fine....about 70 and its like a vibrator...what could bend a driveshaft and cause it to do that?
damn you got me thinking....mine shakes pretty bad when i get up to speed but when im going under 45 or so its fine....about 70 and its like a vibrator...what could bend a driveshaft and cause it to do that?
Got to be carefull when you try this. Notice I said I had it on blocks I have some 18X18 blocks that I put under the rear axle. I wouldent dare use jackstands and get under the car! Also dont let the drivline take your wrench away when your looking for vibes.
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