Looking to purchase a S60 and possibly the short umi torque arm since the jegster isn't sold anymore. Does anyone have any suggestions for me. Car will be a street driven restomod 500 Hp

I thought CRP had a rearend/ T/A combo once, but cannot locate it anymore.

 

Subscribed for future reference for my build. GL

 

Bump. Anyone?....

 

Midwest chassis 9" and crossmember/torque arm
or a moser 9" aluminum center and trutrac
umi crossmember mount TA setup

 

12 bolt will handle that without the power loss/weight of the S60.

 

What makes the S60 attractive is the low cost and the amount of power it'll hold.
From what I "read" the power loss is single digits so it's negligible.

I would love to have more insight though.

 

Maybe even use a 8.8, cost, weight and power loss problems solved.

 

How much does a 8.8/cost setup for our cars?

 

Not much less expensive unless your able to fab your own up. That's only what I've personally seen, so I could be wrong.

Anyone buy from S&W race cars? They have some decent prices.

 

There are a few guys doing these and they are really pretty cheap.
Search around and you'll find them.

 

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/ha...-end-assembly/

 

S&W race cars is a great place to deal with. I ordered my roll cage kit from them.

 

You add Tru-Trac, 1350 yoke, Paint, and sway bar brackets and your over $2500. Just not appealing enough for the minimal price savings.

 

Do they do any price matching? How was their customer service?>
I can pay a little more if the service is worth it!

 

Does anyone else have any feedback?

 

Get whatever your budget allows. Cheap, easy, simple and inexpensive is a basic 9" direct bolt in. A 12 bolt is nice and a S60 is big, heavy and way more diff than you need. In the end, you'll be spending close to $3000 for any of the diffs. It all depends on what internal options you use and what brakes you install.

I have a 9" in my race car with about twice as much power as you want to make. Other than the narrowed housing, everything is aftermarket. The aluminum center section, aluminum daytona pinion support and aluminum spool means I can lift the center section with one hand to put it in. Reduced unsprung weight is a huge advantage. I only run 31 spline axles but if I was using a 3 speed trans instead of a powerglide, I'd have 33 or 35 spline axles.

 

I was thinking why not over build it and never have to touch it again.
So you think a 12bolt will hold a 3200lb car with 500+lbft tq I was thinking 35splines with trutrac, guess that's overkill too?

Down the road once it's all together for a while (few months) I'd like to supercharge it or dump a healthy shot of dope.

 

Customer service was top notch. Above and beyond really. I talked with them 3 times before I ordered my cage and twice afterwards. Even before the sale they went the extra mile to get me info I needed and help me down the right path. It was my first roll cage install and I had a lot of questions.

The 5 phone calls totaled well over 2 hours and never once did I feel like I was being rushed or pushed to the side.

 

Hell yeah, that's good to know. I'll be calling them for sure, I appreciate your help.

 

Anyone have any recommendations for who to purchase from?

 

like posted go with a 9" it will pay for its self. you can get a Detroit locker any gear. 31 spine the unit will bolt in in 40 min by your self for under $2300 shipped. youll never look back. gear sets in units that just drop out and drop in run about $500 ea after that. depending on what parts ya want in them..just did a 2nd one with bolt through alum housing with 4.56 gears and detroit locker for $750. just shop..

 

I've been shopping around, and cannot find the 9" for 2300.

 

i went with a moser 9in

Moser housing fully gusseted and braced
1/2in screw in studs
fill/drain holes installed
stock width
31 spline axles
yukon aluminum third member
yukon trac-lok posi
4.11 gears
1350 yoke
third member assembled by quick performance.
rear brakes were upgrade to lt1 since the older third gen backing plates will not work without modifying them.

the install went fine, things fit perfectly. honest rookie mistake when pressing on the axle bearings.. i assembled them with the backing plates on the wrong sides (9in axles are different lengths). so that was a costly mistake with shop fees and the cost of new bearings. i also noticed the car does sit 3/4-1in higher than the rear due to the tall spring perches so i will have to get shorter springs for my weight jacks

havent really flogged on it yet, i really want to see how the car likes the gear. it is quiet with a slight whine on decel, kinda bummed about it but i will live with it.

overall i am happy with how it looks and now really cant wait for the racing season

 

You can do the ford 9" cheaper if you shop around. Here is what I done..

Moser housing and axles shipped to my door $1100
Ford iron case third member built by valley custom diff. in CA with motive gear set, timkin bearings, nascar take out Detroit locker, $735 shipped.
Second gen F body drum backing plates (free, I had them) and enlarged the hole to fit.
Second gen wheel cylinders, brake shoes, springs, etc $70
ES poly uni. sway bar end links and bushings, 3" exhaust clamps...$30

Around $1900 for my complete ford 9"