I have a 86 Camaro with 3.23 open carrier and drum brakes. I installed a mini spool and the rear end broke after 1000 miles. Not sure if I installed spool wrong or the torque broke the rear end. I need to know can I rebuild the current rear end or should I get a 12 bolt. The motor is carbed zz4 with afr heads. The car is mainly street driven.

 

Spool + street = busted rear end.

What broke? The ring, pinion, carrier, something else? Exactly which part(s) broke will determine what is needed to fix it. For instance, if you broke the cast center of the housing, ain't no fixing that.

 

I would not spend ONE PENNY on a drum brake housing core. (or for that matter, one with Saggy discs)

I would find a better core to start out with, and build that instead.

Nothing about your description of the rest of your car seems to require a 12-bolt. A 10-bolt w posi (NOT Auburn or Gov-Lock) or ratchet locker of some sort would be entirely adequate.

 

A spool of any kind on the street is a bad idea. I've seen many rear ends with a spool in them that broke. It can also be very dangerous.

If the housing is still good then you can rebuild it. Contact Quick Performance and get their kit with the Yukon Dura Grip, gears and the USA Standard installation kit. This is just over $500 and good quality stuff.

 

Except, put all that in SOME OTHER core; one that's not

or Saginaw (cast-iron) discs.

And of course, this would also be the time to evaluate the ratio; might be your golden opportunity to upgrade your gears, as well as your housing.

Don't spend EVEN ONE PENNY, let alone $500, on a drum brake 26-spline rear.

 

The ring and pinion broke. Along with the blocks the spool came with. It broke going in straight line.

 

what gear ratio? I found a rear at hawks third gen he wants 750.00 that's way too much. bythe time I build that I will have way too much money in that rear. It is a 92 1le 3.42. You think a 10 bolt will live in my car I thought they were week.

 

ebay has a 93-97 for 500.00 with 4.10 I don't know if I want my tires to stick out.

 

Those are probably going to have the Auburn in them. It's junk. Don't use anything with an Auburn.

 

LS1 cars come with 10-bolts and seem to live just fine for the most part. Should work just fine for what you're doing.

A junk one out of a 98-2000 SS would be ideal. Already has everything you need; good gears, Torsen carrier, good brakes, etc. All you'll need is brake lines and some fluid, and some wheels to fit a 93-2000 F-body or Vette. Worth what it costs to just buy and not worry about "rebuild" and all that.

 

What do you think about the 1le from hawks he said it had a 3.42 with torsen. I could still use my factory wheels 16"
the cost would 1000.00 by the time they shipped it. does that year have the auburn or the torsen. thanks for you guys help.

 

What year?

That would seem to have a Torsen. Not sure though, might want to call and ask.

But yeah, if that has the aluminum calipers (PBR), that carrier, and those gears, that's about the cheeeeeeeeepest way you'll be able to get all that stuff. No way you'll be able to piece it together for that.

 

its a 92

 

'98 to '02 was Torsen. All earlier were Auburn, except some SLP cars.

 

If somebody put a Torsen in it, it has a Torsen, no matter what year.

If not, it has an Auburn. (or at least, came with that steaming POS)

I guess it boils down to truth in advertising, eh??? Call em and ask em. Get em to send photos.

 

ok thanks ill call him and see what he says

 

GM 7.5" & 7.625" 10 Bolt / Posi / Gears / Bearing Kit
View/Hide options $575.00 $575.00

YA G22515441 - Yukon 1541H alloy rear axle for '82-'89 GM 7.5" Camaro (drum brakes) $217.77 $217.77

TA_1809 Chevy 7.5" 10 Bolt Rear End Girdle $159.95 $159.95

Subtotal $952.72
TOTAL $952.72

this is what i am thinking about purchasing would you be able to help with the installation? Is there anything else i need?

 

If the rear you are looking at already has gears you can live with and a Torsen, you don't need a gear/carrier/bearing kit.

If its axles are good, you don't need axles.

The "girdle" cover is a good idea regardless.

Don't buy any parts until you have the core rear in your hand and have fully evaluated it.

 

No the rear that i am looking at does not have the torsen he said it has the eaton. I think he is just trying to sell the rear. i will use my current rear end. it has a broke pinion and ring gear and maybe axles. I was going to build myself but i don't have the tools to set up correctly. Donnie at advance driveline said for 500.00 he would put it together.

 

what do you think about gear ratio? I don't care about the mpg or rpms on highway i have a new truck for that. thinking 3.73 3.90 4.10

 

Looks to me like you're into it for 15 big ones then, if you can't do the work yourself. BEFORE the brakes.

I believe I'd keep looking for a whole rear that I could run, with a good carrier, good gears, and good brakes.

Something about like one out of a 98-02 SS/WS6 car, and get some different wheels.

Maybe somebody already mentioned that; just thought I'd throw it in though.

 

I believe if I bought four new matching wheels and tires I would be over the cost of 1500.00. The current wheels and tires are 16' iroc z wheels and they are new tires. The 16' wheels wont fit the 2000 rear?

 

Never seen a 16' wheel on a car; that'd be kinda ... scary.

Seriously, the diameter isn't the problem; it's the offset. 3rd gen wheels will stock out so far they'll look stoooooopid. As narrow as those old stock wheels are, they already look like pizza cutters; and then having them hung outside the fenders, makes them look totally poseur.

Gotta buy tires from time to time anyway; complaining about that is about like complaining that you have to buy new gas when you change out your fuel pump. Wheels, you can get at the junkyard etc., and sell your existing ones. Tires too, if yours are any good. Should be, if not revenue neutral, not terribly far from it. Plus, gives you the opportunity to now buy modern-size performance tires.

 

[QUOTE=sofakingdom;6004855]Never seen a 16' wheel on a car; that'd be kinda ... scary.

Seriously, the diameter isn't the problem; it's the offset. 3rd gen wheels will stock out so far they'll look stoooooopid. As narrow as those old stock wheels are, they already look like pizza cutters; and then having them hung outside the fenders, makes them look totally poseur.

Gotta buy tires from time to time anyway; complaining about that is about like complaining that you have to buy new gas when you change out your fuel pump. Wheels, you can get at the junkyard etc., and sell your existing ones. Tires too, if yours are any good. Should be, if not revenue neutral, not terribly far from it. Plus, gives you the opportunity to now buy modern-size performance tires.[/QUOTe

Ok. I'm not complaining about buying tires or gas I just have a small budget. I like your idea and have researched the wheels and tires. I think I'm going to get the 86 10 bolt built. ive found all the parts for 1200.00. cost 500.00 labor to install. I will put better rear in it if it breaks again. thanks for your help.

 

If I were looking at spending $1500 to piece together a rear axle, I think I'd rather take my money to the aftermarket and get something a hell of a lot better than a 7.5" 10 bolt.

What I did, was bought a crappy 10 bolt drum rear axle from a 90 Camaro for $50, a Torsen take out from E-bay, and had the machine shop mill the axle flanges down to fit inside of the rotors of my existing rear housing. Granted, this didn't get me any better rear brakes, but it did get me a Torsen differential with 28 spline axles for less than $300.

I do agree with Sofa though, that a 4th gen rear would be a hell of a lot easier and cheaper to boot. I'm sure it wouldn't be too terribly difficult or expensive to get some 4th gen rims from a local salvage yard. I'd have gone this way if I could've found one for a reasonable price.

Also, keep in mind that swapping a rear end isn't very difficult on these cars, and you're probably fully capable of doing it yourself with basic tools, a jack, and a pair of jack stands.

 

$1700

And in the end you'll still have drum brakes...

Not a wise use of money.

 

I'm going to put disc brakes on it for 300.00. everything will be new instead of some used junkyard stuff. I just don't do junkyards thanks though.

 

Well, good luck with all that. Should end up a pretty nice setup, at least, if those "new" brakes are PBRs. If they're saggy, you'll be back.

 

Oofta. Since you're dropping that much dough, why not just pay the extra couple hundred and get something better? There's probably better pricing than this out there, but as an example:

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/ha...-end-assembly/

 

Yea, there is no way I'd spend $1700 on a 7.5 rear end when you could almost put a 9 inch in it for that. Check around before spending that much money on the weak little 7.5.

 

I don't know what pbr brakes are or saggy brakes. What are you talking about. I don't know the lingo.

 

Saggy=Saginaw iron calipers

 

PBR calipers are aluminum and Saginaw calipers are cast iron.

 

Avoid saggys at all cost....get the PBR.

 

No point investing a grand into this when you can adapt a '99-'04 Mustang GT 8.8" Traction-Lock 28-spline rear for under $200 if you can metal-fab. Will hold 500 RWHP on drag radials with a TKO500, so 600 with an automatic, on the stock shafts. Ford 28-splines are much stronger shafts than GM 28-spliners. Comes with discs, too. Small, unvented, and the crappy internal-micro-drum parking brakes, however. It's no challenge to fit 11.75" x 1.25" rotors and '76 ElDorado calipers inside 15" wheels. Just gotta do the mounting brackets. With new rotors and reman calipers, around $300. If you go 16" wheels, then 12.5" rotors are easy.