Hey fellas, I have a question about getting my 700R4 to warm up. I am running a large stacked plate tranny cooler, and a Vigilante 2800 stall converter behind a built 383. I currently do not have any TC lockup stuff in place because I'm running a carb, waiting until I can get back to computer control. So, the TC doesn't lock up right now. I've got the TCI extra deep pan and temp gauge as well (which never even hits 140 IIRC).

My problem is that as it gets colder outside, it takes longer for my tranny to warm up. Until it warms up it a) doesn't shift until 3000 to get into second b) doesn't shift until 4000 to go to third and c) won't shift into fourth until I've driven for twenty minutes. This can't be good for the tranny right? Is there a way I can either bypass the cooler for the winter (maybe just attach the inlet to the outlet with a piece of hose) or will warming up the car with the tranny in Neutral allow it to heat up faster?

Any advice is appreciated!
Steve

 

bypass the tranny cooler like you would a blown heater core. Also an easy way to warm up the fluid is by holding the brakes and simultaneously stepping on the gas. The fluid shear from the fast mmoving pump and stationary turbine will get the fluid warm real quick. Also, burnouts in the morning have been shown to significantly increase the quality of the rest of your day.

 

Also, burnouts in the morning have been shown to significantly increase the quality of the rest of your day.
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I love it!

 

Mine runs at 100* or less on the highway and acts fine when I exit.

Is that too cold? Where do 700R-4's like to runs at?

 

Well, mine rarely hit 150 even in the summer, nowadays it doesn't even make my gauge move and it starts at 130. I thought I remember reading somewhere that these trannies like the 180-200 degree range, but that's if I recall correctly. It could become a serious problem for me if it were to get slippery out, as the tranny likes to shift hard when cold. Eeeek!!

Steve

 

Actually I don't think it is the problem. Either the Throttle Valve is sticky or it is due to having a high stall converter and the engine is not running right cold, if you follow me on this. The first thing I noticed on my Camaro when I went with a higher stall is that it all of a sudden was shifting later. It wasn't that the tranny was doing anything different it's just that the lack of power transfer compared to the original converter required me to give it more throttle, thus delaying the shift. I can see how when cold your engine might not run quite the same and then you W/O really noticing it, give it more throttle. Just a thought.

Also, either way, the L/U won't give it more heat, so to speak.

 

Thanks TFL, it is a lot higher stall than I'm used to from the original 305. I think the engine is running fine, but there is a definite difference between my tranny cold and my tranny warmed up. Would having a "monster valve" installed make that more prevelant? Am I going to jack up my transmission by running it cold like that? Would it be a good idea to just hook up the inlet line to the outlet line? I can keep an eye on my tranny temp gauge to make sure it doesn't get out of line... What do ya think?

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Also, either way, the L/U won't give it more heat, so to speak.

L/U?? Lock Up?? I just figured with more slip (ie not locked up) it would generate more heat.

Thanks for the replies fellas,
Steve

P.S. I don't think burnouts at 0440 would get me extra Christmas cards from the neighbors...

 

150 - 180 degrees is optimum. As transfixleo said the throttle valve is reacting very well (when cold). I would install the Trans-Go Junior Shift kit to solve this, but if you want firmer WOT shifts then install the Trans-Go Performance Shift kit. This kit will still address the throttle valve problem. When you say you have the monster valve, what is the size? .521 or .570? Yes, this could be part of the problem. Let me know.

 

Please elaborate on what a "Monster Valve" is.