Im looking to find out who has done a push style conversion with their T56? I swapped mine in about 7 years ago, first clutch got oil soaked so i replaced it with a spec clutch. I bent a fork a 3 months after, and then season later the throw out bearing failed. after calling tech support and informing them, they considered the clutch disc a lost cause. No burns, no abnormal wear, not down to the rivets, but bellow "specification" After spending 1K on a billet flywheel, disc and pressure plate i put a cheap clutch kit in it and its been fine for the last 3 years, untill last week. The forks rubbing on the pressure plate, OR the bearing is failing again. Installed a set of washers under the slave to serve as a temporary bandaid, but i know its only a matter of time before the fork bends again or the throw out bearing fails. Really not wanting to do a 4th pull style clutch.

 

Did you run 4th pedals? The third gen pedals with 4th gen hydraulics will over extend your throwout. The peg for your master on the clutch pedal are in different locations for the 3rd and 4th gen car. There is an adjustable master cylinder tick performance makes to fix that, or 4th gen pedals. I opted for the 4th gen pedals.

 

Yes, I've done it.

What service tag is your trans.?

How much further into the trans. will your driveshaft go?

What budget threshold are you trying to avoid?

 

Im using third gen pedals, 4th gen master cylinder. The whole Clutch/Brake/Gas pedal assembly swap in or do you have to break it up?

Its close, Im running a 4th gen driveshaft, so im assuming if it has to go any further forward ill need a longer one. If i could get away with a push setup for $600 i would do it in a heart beat. My only concern is that the front of the LT1 T56 isnt reinforced enough because it wasnt designed to be pushed on. I cant seem to find any install instructions anywhere. I might call RAM seeing they have a "Conversion" slave.


Now that i think about it, I put a new master cylinder in around december (Original was leaking around the top) I wonder if the throw is slightly longer. I wish i had a 4th gen to take a throw measurement off of. Wonder if i can put a stop on the pedal to prevent it from overextending.

 

You could run a pedal stop, but swapping pedals isnt very hard. I see the 4th gen pedals on ls1tech for fairlty cheap prices.

 

I might go see if i can find a set at the local yard. There was a V6 there a few weeks back.

 

Typically, you would cut the gas pedal off of the 4G assembly and use your stock 3G gas pedal.

The factory 3rd and 4th Gen driveshafts are the same length. And using a LT-T56 puts the tail of the trans in the same location as a T5 or 700R4, so you can still use the same drive shaft.

There isn't enough depth in the LT-T56 bell housing to replace the pull PP to a push PP AND fit in the taller hydraulic TOB.

The conversion requires non-LT flywheel ($100+), a push clutch ($100-$200, pressure plate, really), the concentric hydraulic TOB ($50? $100?), the LT-to-LS conversion ($300 to change input shaft and T56 front plate), along with an SBC-to-LS-T56 bell housing ($600, the only "adapter" is going to be a scatter shield). AND that extends the trans about 1" to the rear, which means shortening the driveshaft. ($50-$100?)

Unless you get some great sales, clearance, trades and friend deals, $600 won't cover it.

 

More info...
SuperChevy
LS1Tech
Here on TGO
Adapter plate from Tick
Pro-Touring
Camaros.net ... with several (stale) links. For instance, use this link for the McLeod adapter at Summit.
CamaroZ28.net

 

I should develop a conversion.

Back to this:
If you have an LT1 T56 and LT1 T56 and stock third gen driveshaft, how far does yours go in?

If you have an LS1 bellhousing / LS1 T56 and stock third gen driveshaft, how far does yours go in?

 

Looks like i have some good reading to do. Thanks MoJoe. Looks like im gonna have to think long and hard on this one. After reading that, Im thinking i might try a pull clutch once more, and fourth gen pedals. Ill have to read through all that when i have another few minutes to kill

 

Looking over my links, another thought is;

1. replace with LS input shaft ($150), and LS front cover ($150+)... maybe you can get away with the LT front plate.
2. McLeod adapter plate ($237)
3. And use all T5 flywheel, clutch, PP, bell housing, fork, and hydraulics... You might find this much cheaper (used).

Give it a shot and let us know how it works!

 

http://https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engine-swap/655364-ffi-first-injection-421-a.html


Pictures and just so you know its not cheap.