I keep hearing about guys that have Chevy S10 torque converters in their 700r4s. In one of my 87 Irocs I put a B&m 2400 converter in and it feels same as stock. I hear the S10s are 2400 to 2600 reall stall rpm and are good for a little extra launch .. any input or experience? Thanks Chris

 

Mine has one. Don't know how much better than stock its been so long since ive drove a stock one. Id say mines really more like 2200 stall it launches pretty good with that and the 373s. Shes all done by 100ft though..Lol

 

If you have a lot of rear gear, like a 3.73:1, then a loose converter, like a 2500+, is going to drive near-stock. Swap to tall gears like 2.73:1, and the difference in torque converters becomes dramatic. Then the loose converters become annoying.
The L35 S-10 converter is the loosest stock GM V8-compatible converter, is NOT as loose as a B&M TorkMaster 2400, and is a cheap alternative to the B&M.
The 2.2L S-10 converter is much looser than 2.8 / 3.1 converters

 

This car has the stock 2.73 in it. It's a dog

 

Thanks for the info. This is my mostly stock 87 I have one im building with heads superram and 3000 stall 10 inch in it. I'm just bummed I put this b&m in this car and it drives like it did stock.

 

The S truck converter is a lot like the Vega converter was back in the day.

Yeah, it stalls higher. Yeah, it scores higher on the butt dyno than a V8 one, in some ways sometimes.

BUTT:

Go to the track. Are ANY of the cars THAT WIN running one???

And there's your answer.

On to the next topic:

There's your other answer, to the question you didn't quite ask yet.

The 3rd answer is

You already answered that unasked question yourself.

 

What's winning at the dragstrip doesn't matter for making a daily driver fun, most of those drag winners would be hell for commuting.
I had a '95 Z28 convertible with the 2.73:1 axle, couldn't break the rear tires loose with the stock 1500-stall. Swapped the B&M TM2400, instant traction problem, very fun for making twin black stripes on the pavement, but aggravating and frustrating for normal driving.
Next I had a '91 RS LO3 with the 2.73:1 gears. Stock 1500-stall in that one, too. I eventually pulled the TBI, gave it the '87 Monte L69 intake manifold, an '80 LG4 Q-Jet, and a '77 350 HEI. Lost all my low-RPM torque, 2 weeks of playing with the spark advance curve never got it all back.
When a converter doesn't flash to its rated stall, that's a lack of torque out of the engine, which is usually a tuning problem. If you're running a near-stock LG4, that's no surprise, but even so, the B&M should feel different than a stocker. So what's your initial timing at? What cam is in it? What heads are on it? 190-cc heads on a 350 will cost huge torque until around 3500 RPM. Even a 406 doesn't need more than 180-cc heads to make over 525 HP on a mild street cam. If your intake closing is later than ~35* at 0.050", that's not helping, either