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Mating T56 to engine - Missing Something

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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 08:07 PM
  #1  
CREATED41's Avatar
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From: Huntsville, AL
Car: 1992 Chevy Camaro RS
Engine: LO3 - 305 TBI (Stock)
Transmission: 5-speed - T5
Axle/Gears: Stock
Mating T56 to engine - Missing Something

I may be asking a dumb question because I am probably overlooking something on this but if asking a dumb question is what it takes, I've got no problem doing it. I'm getting ready to swap in a 4.8 & T56 into my 92 camaro. I just finished swapping everything over on the motor and installed the new clutch kit and slave cylinder. My problem is that I cannot get the trans to mate to the engine. The splines are started about 1" but it seems I may be contacting the pressure plate with the slave cylinder. IIRC my slave cylinder to bell housing-trans surface is 3" while my pressure plate to the same surface is 2.25" Meaning I have about 3/4" interference. I don't want to force it on using bolts to pull the two together - I'm not completely opposed, I just want to do it right. This is my first time dealing with this type of slave cylinder. Do I have to bleed the slave cylinder prior to bolting the trans to the engine? My only other conclusion is that I'm not lining up with my pilot bearing - I know it fits because I tested it prior to installing it.
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 09:05 PM
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Thirdgen89GTA's Avatar
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From: Chicagoland Suburbs
Car: 1989 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LT1, AFR 195cc, 231/239 LE cam.
Transmission: M28 T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10bolt waiting to explode.
Re: Mating T56 to engine - Missing Something

Originally Posted by CREATED41
I may be asking a dumb question because I am probably overlooking something on this but if asking a dumb question is what it takes, I've got no problem doing it. I'm getting ready to swap in a 4.8 & T56 into my 92 camaro. I just finished swapping everything over on the motor and installed the new clutch kit and slave cylinder. My problem is that I cannot get the trans to mate to the engine. The splines are started about 1" but it seems I may be contacting the pressure plate with the slave cylinder. IIRC my slave cylinder to bell housing-trans surface is 3" while my pressure plate to the same surface is 2.25" Meaning I have about 3/4" interference. I don't want to force it on using bolts to pull the two together - I'm not completely opposed, I just want to do it right. This is my first time dealing with this type of slave cylinder. Do I have to bleed the slave cylinder prior to bolting the trans to the engine? My only other conclusion is that I'm not lining up with my pilot bearing - I know it fits because I tested it prior to installing it.
Did you use one of these to align the clutch while you were installing it?


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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 05:02 AM
  #3  
CREATED41's Avatar
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From: Huntsville, AL
Car: 1992 Chevy Camaro RS
Engine: LO3 - 305 TBI (Stock)
Transmission: 5-speed - T5
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: Mating T56 to engine - Missing Something

Yes, I used the clutch alignment tool. I've read some ppl have a little slop and have to hold it in the center while installing the pressure plate. I may have to redo that step but if I'm missing a step with the slave I may end up in the same situation.
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 06:38 AM
  #4  
CREATED41's Avatar
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From: Huntsville, AL
Car: 1992 Chevy Camaro RS
Engine: LO3 - 305 TBI (Stock)
Transmission: 5-speed - T5
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: Mating T56 to engine - Missing Something

Yes, I used the clutch alignment tool. I've read some ppl have a little slop and have to hold it in the center while installing the pressure plate. I may have to redo that step but if I'm missing a step with the slave I may end up in the same situation.
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 08:04 AM
  #5  
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From: Huntsville, AL
Car: 87 GTA, 88 GTA, 92 TA, 72 RS SS
Engine: 350, 350, 305, 396
Transmission: T56, 700r4, 700r4, T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.23, 3.23, 3.73
Re: Mating T56 to engine - Missing Something

Try having someone push in the clutch while working it in from the bottom to get it to seat all the way.. That's always worked for me.
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 04:55 AM
  #6  
CREATED41's Avatar
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From: Huntsville, AL
Car: 1992 Chevy Camaro RS
Engine: LO3 - 305 TBI (Stock)
Transmission: 5-speed - T5
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: Mating T56 to engine - Missing Something

Originally Posted by battman
Try having someone push in the clutch while working it in from the bottom to get it to seat all the way.. That's always worked for me.
It's not in the car yet. The hydraulics are not hooked up to anything.
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 05:25 AM
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From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Re: Mating T56 to engine - Missing Something

You may want to look into the different crank flange lengths on the 4.8 vs 5.3/5.7. IIRC my friend had this issue when he did a 6speed swap in his 4.8 truck. He had to do something to make it work right but I cant remember exactly what.
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Old Aug 11, 2016 | 10:37 AM
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From: RI
Car: 1984 Camaro Berlinetta
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56 6-speed
Axle/Gears: 4.11 LS1 Rear End
Re: Mating T56 to engine - Missing Something

Try having someone push in the clutch while working it in from the bottom to get it to seat all the way.. That's always worked for me.

+1

Always works for me too,.... hook up the hydraulics and try it !


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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 02:15 PM
  #9  
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From: Santa Monica, CA
Car: '91 Camaro RS
Engine: F1R Procharged 383
Transmission: Tremec 600
Axle/Gears: moser 12 bolt, 4.11's 33 spline axl
Re: Mating T56 to engine - Missing Something

If the alignment tool doesn't fit snug into the pilot bearing/bushing (and it never does) wrap a few turns of masking tape around the snout until it fits very snug.

That's generally gotten me close enough that I could get the trans to seat without having anyone push the clutch in, so I could do it by myself, and before the clutch is hooked up.
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Old Aug 12, 2016 | 04:34 PM
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From: Tracy, CA
Car: '87 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: TH700R4
Re: Mating T56 to engine - Missing Something

I've only used one of those universal alignment tools once with success. Instead of splines, it used a cone to center the friction disc. The pilot bushing end isn't nearly long enough to hold the tool straight.

My father used to have one drawer in one of his tool chests full of junk input shafts. These seem to work the best but for a one-off install? Maybe not.

He even had one that worked for a 1931 Ford AA truck.
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