Clutch won't disengage after new clutch install.
#1
Clutch won't disengage after new clutch install.
Ok guys I just replaced the clutch in my 92 rs v6. I know everything is in properly but the clutch won't disengage all the way when the pedal is pressed. I only unbolted the slave and moved it out of the way when I did the swap. I tried bleeding it and no difference. I put a new slave cylinder on and bled it for a couple hours every way I could possibly think of. Could it be the master cylinder?
#2
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Car: 86 Trans Am, 92 Firebird
Engine: 408 sbc, 3.1L of raw power
Transmission: TKO600, T5
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3:70 trutac, 3:23 torsion
Re: Clutch won't disengage after new clutch install.
You pulled the trans to the bellhousing with the 4 bolts for the trans. This causes the input shaft to bind into the pilot bushing. Pull the trans back off and try again, I helps to have somebody press the clutch pedal while you work the trans into position since its usually a slight misalignent of the splines that causes some problem sliding the trans in that last 1/2 " or so
#4
Re: Clutch won't disengage after new clutch install.
So when I get it slid in the splines just a hair get someone to pres the clutch in. Do they press it all the way or what. Just enough to ge it to go in. Will I have to replace the pilot bushing. Thanks for the advice guys.
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Re: Clutch won't disengage after new clutch install.
If you had your assistant press the clutch pedal while you wiggled the transmission in, then, you did it right.
THE WORST POSSIBLE THING you can do is, use the bolts to "draw" the transmission up to the bell housing. That breaks things.
The other, even more common (but at least not fatal) problem, is this.
Doing it the wrong way makes the first half or so of the pedal throw, have to take up the slack in the fork spring. (the piece that looks like it clips onto the throwout in the "wrong" pic) Then, you only have the ability to just about halfway operate the clutch from there.
THE WORST POSSIBLE THING you can do is, use the bolts to "draw" the transmission up to the bell housing. That breaks things.
The other, even more common (but at least not fatal) problem, is this.
Doing it the wrong way makes the first half or so of the pedal throw, have to take up the slack in the fork spring. (the piece that looks like it clips onto the throwout in the "wrong" pic) Then, you only have the ability to just about halfway operate the clutch from there.
#6
Re: Clutch won't disengage after new clutch install.
If you had your assistant press the clutch pedal while you wiggled the transmission in, then, you did it right.
THE WORST POSSIBLE THING you can do is, use the bolts to "draw" the transmission up to the bell housing. That breaks things.
The other, even more common (but at least not fatal) problem, is this.
Doing it the wrong way makes the first half or so of the pedal throw, have to take up the slack in the fork spring. (the piece that looks like it clips onto the throwout in the "wrong" pic) Then, you only have the ability to just about halfway operate the clutch from there.
THE WORST POSSIBLE THING you can do is, use the bolts to "draw" the transmission up to the bell housing. That breaks things.
The other, even more common (but at least not fatal) problem, is this.
Doing it the wrong way makes the first half or so of the pedal throw, have to take up the slack in the fork spring. (the piece that looks like it clips onto the throwout in the "wrong" pic) Then, you only have the ability to just about halfway operate the clutch from there.
man an I feel dumb because I put the throw out bearing on wrong apparently. I didn't see how it was originally because it fell out before I could see. I'll try that tonight and get back to you thank you for the advice.
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Re: Clutch won't disengage after new clutch install.
Hey, don't feel so bad; back in the daze before algore invented the interwebz, I did that myself, and had to figure it out the hard way. That's why I'll NEVER forget it: ye old skool of hard knocks.
Set it straight and let us know if it's better.
Set it straight and let us know if it's better.
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#10
Re: Clutch won't disengage after new clutch install.
How do I get the clutch fork to seperate from the bellhousing? Could I take it off the the pivot ball in the bell housing and get it on the throw out bearing properly without pulling the trans again? Its kind of hard for me to work on the ground with a plate and six screws in my neck. Ever since that happened last year I've lost a lot of strength. But if it has to happen I'll get some help.
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Re: Clutch won't disengage after new clutch install.
Nope, gotta pull the trans. The fork has to go inward, toward the center of the trans; can't go that way with the trans there, by design. It's kinda one of those "nothing holding it together it just can't fall apart" type designs like a C-clip rear.