I have stock gears right now 3.23 and I was wondering if 3.73 or something will help with 1/4 mile times. Thanks

 

The gears would definately help, but I think headers back would be a better choice, especially with worked heads and a cam, that engine can't breathe right now.

 

I had some headers and a Y-pipe and I was about to put them on until I found out that the Emissions people look specifically for the AIR Tubes, so I would have failed visual inspection. I really don't feel like paying 650 for Emission SLP headers or 450 for crappy edlebrocks. I still have the headers and I just passed emissions, so I'm thinking about putting them on anyways. I'll just have to do with the cut-out for now though. I hate AZ Emission standerds.

 

I got my Edelbrock headers with AIR hookups for $313, of course that is uncoated.

 

This is from someone else but I liked it so much I saved it:

There is an easy test you can do to determine the right gear for acceleration on your car. Once this is done you will be able to make an informed decision.

Make 1/4 mile runs and note the speed and tach rpm in high gear as you cross the finishline.*{high is "D"(auto) or 4th (5speed)*. Ignore the ET for now. Take the highest speed and rpm achieved, divide by your gear ratio and then multiply by the new gear ratio.
This will be the new rpm at the finishline when/if you changed gears. For max acceleration, you want the motor to be at Peak horsepower rpm as you cross the finishline. This is the right gear/tire combo for your car. Remember a 3.73 when in "OD" or "5thgear" on the hiway will still have a very reasonable cruise rpm.
A set of sticky high traction tires (don't have to be bigger than stock, just sticky) will really set you in your seat with your new gears.
This message has been edited by F-BIRD'88

I can't add a whole lot to this but just remember, the whole idea is to have the engine where is is making power. If it has more power left in it at higher RPM's then you want to use that, some however run out too soon so it would hurt ET's. Also, along with this is the proper WOT shift points with an auto. You must shift before the engine power band peaks.