Yeret

After some reading and crunching the numbers, I've more or less decided on going the 350 route to replace my seized 305. I'm looking to nab a short block and drop my TPI right on top. Basically, I'm looking to build what would more or less be a stock L98. Might do some exhaust work while everything's apart. Now, the tranny fluid in my car is black as hell and considering how thrashed the engine is, I don't figure the tranny fared much better. I may or may not just do a partial fluid change and cross my fingers but in the event that I do have it rebuilt, I'm definitely going to have a shift kit installed. My question here is what should I run for a torque converter? Should I just stick to stock stall speed or should I go with something a little higher? Not certain but I'm pretty sure my car has the 2.73 rear gear. I'll probably go to a shorter gear if the axle needs to be rebuilt so I guess what I'm looking for is a torque converter that will work optimally now but will still perform well with different rear gears and/or some engine mods down the road.

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

all depends on the RPM range of the camshaft and rear gears

skinny z

To get a torque converter properly spec'd requires the information Tyler has posted above as well as few other things.
That said, if a maximum effort isn't required an off the shelf unit will do more than you might think. One of the single best improvements I've experienced was with the installation of a TCI 10" "Street Fighter" converter. It's advertised as +1500 RPM over a stock stall speed. Keep in mind that it's all relative. If you have a strong engine with lots of torque then any given converter will stall higher than when compared to one with less power.
Something like the above will work fine with your current setup and still perform properly as you add improvements whether they're in HP or gearing.

Yeret

I'm looking to run this camshaft as it seems to be a pretty close match to the L98 cam...

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=211&sb=2

The idea is to basically do a stock-style build on the 350 since all I really have to do is bolt on my intake and heads and swap the PROM. Keeps things cheap and uncomplicated and the factory specs of the 350 TPI are good enough for me, especially since it's a fair improvement over the 305, LOL.

I figure OEM-stall would be fine but I'm just curious if a slight increase would yield any real benefit.

Yeret

Okay, so after doing a bit of reading, it looks like GM offered a high-stall torque converter for the 4l60 as factory equipment primarily for trucks. Seems to have a stall rating that is 6-700 RPMs higher than stock vs the car torque converters. Looks like I can score a brand new one for around $200. Seems a pretty sweet step up from what my car's tranny likely has in it now. Has anyone tried this?

TylerSteez

iTrader: (3)

GeneralDisorder

iTrader: (1)

Higher stall makes it more fun. 2500+ is where it's at for fun. Gets the engine up into the power band on take off. I have a 3000 stall non-locking and it's great. I daily mine. If you drive it like you stole it then you want that higher stall. And a shift kit, corvette servo, etc.

GD