ironhead88

I had a shop do some work on my 700R4 a while ago
I'd go and ask the mechanic about this, but the shop is in another town.

So - When he did work on my tranny, he had the valve body off and he asked me if I'd like a firmer 1-2 up shift.
It sounded ok to me so I told him to go for it. But it's firmer than I like it to be, now.

I've been reading up on it and I think it involves removing a check-ball or some thing that's fairly simple.

Is this something someone could inform me on?
I'd like to restore it back to original or at least make it so it isn't so harsh, because it slams second on upshift.

Can this be remedied without removing the trans from the car?

Thanks for helping

LiquidBlue

quite honestly, I don't know. but typically a shift kit doesnt require trany removal. depends on what he did. but usually it if under $150 bucks, that would be it. try googling 700r4 shift kit. P.S. be sure to check tran fluid for level and color, and make sure harsh shift is not a loose part. i.e. u-joint, bushing or something else.

maroe624

Might want to check the 1-2 servo and make it stock again if any mods have been made to it.

Pro Built Automatics

Most likely the 2nd gear feed hole in the separator plate is enlarged and the 2nd gear accumulator blocked or very restricted. Both can be fixed while the transmission is still in the vehicle.

TheFryer

i agree with Pro Built, he could have also pulled the spring out of the 1-2 accumulator, that would cause a hard shift as well because there is not cushion for the pressure to build up, its just instant engagement of the 2nd gear band..

ironhead88

Thanks - That's good news
I discovered that it made a bit of difference to tune my idle to work with a ported vacuum source for the spark advance, rather than manifold vacuum... And then to make changes in the mixture to compensate.
It meant that there was more draw on the TV cable before the RPMs got to a certain point, and that made a slightly noticable difference.
The first few times I test drove it, it was bad. The RPMs would jump and then second would engage hard, about 20ft into an intersection.
It felt like it would self destruct... But it's tolerable now that I'm getting it dialed in.

I have to educate myself on my transmission.

TheFryer

vacuum advance should be off the throttle body and the brakes off the manifold if i remember right. that way at an idle it runs base timing and as you give it more peddle it pulls more vacuum and gives the motor more advance in timing. even on normal carb cars it comes off the carb and not the manifold for that reason. if it is hooked directly to the manifold your getting timing advance even at idle, that would cause a lot of issues.