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Been a while since I visited. Nothing new to talk about, until now. I finally blew up my OE rear diff last fall. Can't believe it survived all these years behind this motor. Only because I never ran sticky tires or even heated up the BFGs on a launch.
I had planned to install the QP fabricated 9" and aluminum center at some point anyway but was putting it off, working on other areas of the car. Peeled ring gear teeth moved the new rear end to the front of the list. I got the housing and axles last fall soon after the blow up. Had to wait on the center til after I got my wife and grandson off to Disneyland and such. You know, happy wife happy hot rodder, or something like that. Today I ordered the Yukon through bolt aluminum case with 3.70 ratio(stock was 3.23) and TruTrac posi. Went with 31 spline lightened axles. It looks like I still end up at around 180lbs total weight, even with the fab housing and aluminum case, lighter than a factory 9" or 12 bolt though. I want to stay as close as possible to the factory unsprung weight of the rear axle. In any case, I should have a rear axle that can take all that I'll ever throw at it and more with a gain of only about 25lbs. When the unit gets here, I'll start a build and install thread with photos. I'm generally too f-in lazy and selfish for pictures but I promise I'll post some this time.
The Quick Performance fabricated housing with BMR weld on sway brackets installed and a coat of primer. Yukon through bolt aluminum center section. 3.70 ratio and Eaton Truetrac posi.
Finally making some progress. Got the center section from QP last month and finally got the sway bar brackets from BMR two weeks ago. Should have ordered the brackets sooner. never would have thought it would take so long to get them. Main thing is they are very nice laser cut pieces and welded on nicely. Just finished a coat of primer. Probably will wait until next weekend to do the first coat of semi gloss black. At this point, with the summer season over, I probably wont get this guy installed this year. At least I'll have it ready to go in first good weather next spring. Slow progress but still progress. Bright side is, no added miles on the car this year. Also saved alot on gas and collision coverage this summer. Now that the 9" rear is all bought and paid for, I can hopefully get the new front struts and the few pieces I need for the transmission, including speedo gears and have it all ready to install at the start of next season.
I've heard mixed reviews on their 9", and getting a $1500 center section in a bucket drove me nuts
I've heard of issues too, but only when using an adjustable torque arm with their funky bracket. I see they've beefed up the mounts at the top and bottom of the housing where their bracket attaches. When used with the wrong kind of TA, these mounts would break off. The thing is, you don't really want to use their bracket at all. It will work for now to install the axle with the stock torque arm. But probably next summer I'm going to install the one piece adjustable torque arm from Midwest Chassis and Suspension. MCS builds their own 9" housing with TA mounts in the same spot as QP's. They also make a nice TA that attaches directly to the housing at those top and bottom mounts. It looks to be the way to do it.
I don't know much about QP's factory Ford housing conversion. I know that the QP housing my buddy runs in his 72 Chevelle is very nice. This fabricated housing is a completely custom piece, built from scratch, and looks to be very well done. The welds are some of the best I've seen anywhere. If there is an issue with this housing, I can't imagine what it would be. I will see if there are any clearance issues with my car's lowered ride height. If so, I'll have to clearance the rear of the tunnel to fit. From what I've seen though, this style of housing with the TA mounts top and bottom of the housing don't have the same issue with clearance as the housings with the square mount block. Again, we'll see when I go to install it.
The bucket mustbe their F**k You for not buying the Jazz Protecto case. For what it's worth though, The bucket did a great job of protecting the center from damage. The bucket and a big box full of stuffing.
It looks like I still end up at around 180lbs total weight, even with the fab housing and aluminum case, lighter than a factory 9" or 12 bolt though. I want to stay as close as possible to the factory unsprung weight of the rear axle. In any case, I should have a rear axle that can take all that I'll ever throw at it and more with a gain of only about 25lbs.
Did you get a final weight? How does that compare to stock?
Ya, but wondering how much we can shorten it, so it's kind of an extra curricular question
That's a stupid question, YOU need to know how much YOU want it shortened then call your order in. It's custom for a reason. Any company can shorten a built rear end but they need to know how much you want it shortened when an order is put in
That's a stupid question, YOU need to know how much YOU want it shortened then call your order in. It's custom for a reason. Any company can shorten a built rear end but they need to know how much you want it shortened when an order is put in
WHAT?!?!?!? if you don't want to run a 4link, you better know the maximum you can shorten it and run stock a-arms and stuff. That's not a stupid question at all!
Unless you have a specific reason you need it shortened ( Fit bigger wheel, Back half ETC) rather than leaving it stock width your question is irrelevant
Originally Posted by CactusS4
WHAT?!?!?!? if you don't want to run a 4link, you better know the maximum you can shorten it and run stock a-arms and stuff. That's not a stupid question at all!
WHAT?!?!?!? if you don't want to run a 4link, you better know the maximum you can shorten it and run stock a-arms and stuff. That's not a stupid question at all!
Tory
Best be getting a measuring tape out then and figure that all out yourself. Companies like QP, Currie, Moser etc don't know what a guy is running back there they are building and selling a product. BTW a-arms are used in front, the rear uses straight lower control arms
I installed mine last month. Fits great I just need to trim my TA bracket to get to the inside holes. No bashing the tunnel or any other BFH mods. I also need to grind down a rib on my center section the TA mount just comes into contact. Just need to grind it like the thickness of a zip disc
was going to ask about brake lines. i will be installing a the QP 9" with strange rear disk brakes. what did you guys use as far as brake lines and emergency brake cables?
was going to ask about brake lines. i will be installing a the QP 9" with strange rear disk brakes. what did you guys use as far as brake lines and emergency brake cables?
That kit didn't come with some braided SS brake line ?
Originally Posted by 91 camaro racer
was going to ask about brake lines. i will be installing a the QP 9" with strange rear disk brakes. what did you guys use as far as brake lines and emergency brake cables?
That kit didn't come with some braided SS brake line ?
nope. not according to summit and strange's website. both say they dont come with brake lines. i wont be home for 3 months so the actual box i received hasnt been opened. wife just put it in the garage
nope. not according to summit and strange's website. both say they dont come with brake lines. i wont be home for 3 months so the actual box i received hasnt been opened. wife just put it in the garage
I bought my my brake kit from Moser since I was buying the rear end from them anyway. It came with the SS lines, I had to hard line there after to the distribution block
Can you believe it? I finally got my 9" ford installed. Here are some photos. The carnage I found when I pulled the cover on the 7.5 was legendary. The pinion gear was in chunks. So weird now not to hear a loud whine from the rear end when driving the car. Used to keep the tunes up high to drown it out. The job went nearly perfect, with just two minor snags. I ordered the center with a 1310 yoke thinking that the 7.5 must have the small yoke. Turns out the 7.5 used a 1330 yoke with a 1310 to 1330 conversion yoke at the rear of the driveshaft. Had to switch the rear u joint to a 1310. Then, when I had it all done and went to drive it, I found I had only first gear in my built 700R4. Somewhere while moving the car from my garage to the flatbed and from the flatbed to the hoist, I lost my governor gear. A new gear and shes now good to go. Of course, with the air here filled with smoke from the wildfires, I only drove her home and tucked her safely away. Hopefully the air clears before the fall rain sets in so I get some chance to drive her before shes go back into storage for the winter.
Next is finishing the exhaust, then a little more beefing up of the trans, then the new motor.
I see in your first pic that your shock is angled about as much as mine to the rearend. Everything on mine is adjustable so I thought I got something out of wack. Did you set the pinion angle before or after that first pic? I made adjustments to fix this problem as the rear looked like it was in a bind. I am setting my pinion angle tonight with an angle finder to see if I corrected it or not. After more reading on the forums I am not sure I had the pinion angle setup right the first time around,
I checked with the car hanging on the hoist. It was right at 1.5 to 2 degrees. I will recheck when I have it on the flat rack tonight. I noticed that my shocks were at a weird angle on assembly. The bracket QP sends with the housing is pretty much set for near zero pinion angle and doesn't really allow for much adjustment. It barely lines up with the brackets welded to the housing. I will run it this way only until I get the Midwest Chassis and Suspension torque arm. It bolts directly to the brackets on the housing and is adjustable. It's the ideal solution when running this housing.
07-12-2019, 05:35 PM
