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Streetable Torque Converter

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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 07:51 AM
  #1  
Nickerz's Avatar
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From: Waukesha
Streetable Torque Converter

Im really at a loss of what I want to run here. Whats the most streetable converter I could run with this combo? Notice that it makes its peak power up high, but the torque is up high too...
-383ci
high nodular 3.750 stroker crankshaft
4340 forged 6" long "H" bean connecting rods with ARP cap screw bolts
Clevite 77 rod & main bearings
J&E lightweight forged Sportsman flat-top pistons
Speed Pro low friction 1/16" Moly rings
Fully machined & clearanced 350 4-bolt @ 4.030 bore
Balancing (external) to within 1/2 gram
Dart Iron Eagle heads with 215cc intake runners 2.05"/1.600"stainless steel swirl polished undercut valves, performance springs, guide plates rocker studs & positive seals
Fel-Pro gaskets
Cloyes true roller timing set
Competition Cams solid Magnum camshaft 248/248 @ .050, 294/294 552/552 lift, 110 LC
ARP head bolts
Manley heat treated .080" wall pushrods
Edelbrock Victor JR. intake with stainless steel bolts
Carter 750 CFM carburetor w/mech. choke

Compression Ratio=11.0-1
Peak Torque=495ft/lbs @ 5,000
Peak HP=538hp @ 6,500
-Nick
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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 08:43 AM
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Momar's Avatar
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I dont have any personal experience here even though I would like too. I have looked into it though. It lookes like you are going to need a pretty loose converter. Someone else could probably recomend a stall speed. VIGIALANTE is what I hear every time someone seems to be serios about a good torque converter. They say that even the high stall converters seem to be real streatable.

Ben
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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 09:00 AM
  #3  
Nickerz's Avatar
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im thinkin a 2800 stall if anyone can tell me if that would be streetable that would be nice.
-Nick
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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 02:09 PM
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From what I have heard you can have even higher stalls than that, it depends a lot on the brand what is streatable. My cousin actually has one that stalls at 2900 and it does fine on the street.

Ben
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Old Jan 11, 2002 | 02:47 PM
  #5  
Pro Built Automatics's Avatar
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From: Calimesa, California, U.S.
A.C.T. has a high stall a 9.5" lockup for the 700R4 with a one time free stall change and a one year warranty for $545.00. I recommend a 3,200 rpm stall with the engine and cam specs you presented. This torque converter is very similar to the Vigilante at a lesser cost. It will handle 800+ horsepower. Give me a call if I can be of some assistance, 800 7763288 M-S 10-6 PST or go to my web site www.pro-built.net
I Hope This Helps!!!
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Old Jan 14, 2002 | 07:48 AM
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85MikeTPI's Avatar
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From: Elkton MD, USA
Car: 1985 Camaro Z28, VIN F
Engine: 427 sbc, HSR
Transmission: T-56, self rebuilt 700+ hp
Axle/Gears: Moser 12bolt, 3.42 trutrac
FWIW, I have a Vig2800 (flashes at 2900)
and it is very streetable. I didn't see
where you posted your rear ratio.. Mine is
3.73 and am very surprised how streetable
these new converters are. (My last experience
was back in the '70s and those technology
converters just simply were no comparison
on the street as the Vig, Yank, etc..

BTW, I dyno'd my car after putting in the
Vig, you can check it out here:

http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/winter01/dyno/


(Nick, I had a question for you RE: your
Griffin. Would you mind emailing me? )

mike
'85Z28 350-TPI (N/A) 11.94 @ 111

davis@eecis.udel.edu
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Old Jan 14, 2002 | 06:59 PM
  #7  
'87FAKE-IROC-Z's Avatar
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Car: Damn
Engine: This
Transmission: New Stuff
I have to throw in a bone for Yank converters here.
I am running a 3200 stall lock-up, and it is extremely streetable, pulls like an SOB, and is a very nice piece.
For that engine you need some good stall. I'd look into somethning around 4000.
Get a good one and it will be plenty streetable with this stall.
Go to Yank's website at www.converter.cc check out thier stuff, get thier phone #, and call them, they can recommend a converter for you.
With whatever manufacturerer you go with, call them, they will tell you which of thier converters is best for you.
good luck
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Old Jan 14, 2002 | 07:03 PM
  #8  
Nickerz's Avatar
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From: Waukesha
4000!? you really think that would be ok?
-Nick
thanx for all the input by the way!
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Old Jan 15, 2002 | 04:31 PM
  #9  
'87FAKE-IROC-Z's Avatar
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: Damn
Engine: This
Transmission: New Stuff
4000 and even a little more is fine if you go with a GOOD converter, not a B&M, TCI, or the cheap summit ones. You get what you pay for.
High dollar converters are known for thier tightness.
Take mine for example. I was recommended by Yank to go with a 3200 stall to help me off the line with 3.27 gears. My stock converter stalled at 1200. Even with the 2000 rpm stall difference, they are very close on the street.
With the Yank, it will rev slightly more on mild take offs from stop lights, maybe 400 rpm more than the stock one till you start moving.
If you brake stall then there is a bigger difference. I could brake stall my stock converter to 1000-1200 before it would spin the tires. I can brake stall the Yank to about 2200-2400 before it will spin them. With sticky tires i should be able to stall to the advertised 3200 stall speed.
But you don't brake stall when you are driving normally. Therefore, there is little difference in street manners. The biggest difference i have noticed is only when going up steep hills at low speeds like 10-15 mph. The converter will rev into its stall range to keep you going. I personally think this is very cool. It gets alot of attention. Once on a flat area, or you are already at speed, or the TC is locked up, there is nearly no difference.
So basically these converters are tame untill you provoke them. And let me tell you, they pull good. I can idle into second gear and floor it up to 3500 and it will brake the tires loose! First gear is a joke under full throttle and street tires, so if you like to peel out, then you'll enjoy that.
I don't know how hard my car will pull in first with traction under full throttle yet, but judging that second pulls as good as first used to, it outa be good!
Just a thought, check out www.LS1.com , go to forums, and look at the drivetrain board. These guys are serious about street performance and are running Yanks and Vigs. Thier modified LS1s are making power around the same rpms as your engine. The really fast cars are running 4500+ stall converters, and they drive these cars everyday! Not too many complaints about street manners, more praises than anything else.
So in short, yeah, you'd be fine with 4000 stall if you go with a good company. A converter is a big deal, don't go cheap on it.
With your peak torque that high i think 4000 should be the lowest you should go for an optimum combo. The rule of thumb that i have heard is take your peak torque rpm, and subtract 400-500 rpm, and that is your optimum stall.
Hope some of this helps, my fingers are tired.

Last edited by '87FAKE-IROC-Z; Jan 15, 2002 at 04:37 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2002 | 05:42 AM
  #10  
Pro Built Automatics's Avatar
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From: Calimesa, California, U.S.
I am familiar with LS1.com (these guys have money and are serious racers) and I answer questions there to. From all my experience, (over 24 years in performance building of automatic transmissions, not to mention I started "street racing in 1966") go with my recommendation of apx. 3,200 rpm stall, you will be happier with it. If however you are a very aggressive in your driving manner, then the 3,200 rpm stall might not be what you want. If you have any questions call me or E-mail me.
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