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I'm worried about longevity of the car with how the previous owners treated the poor thing. The trans fluid needs to be changed, so I thought why not cut the trans some slack and give her a nice cooler.
I know what parts I need, but idk which fittings I need (size of stock steel lines). I also don't know how to mount it. It will be in front of the radiator and it will still pass through.
Any tips for installation are part selection will be appreciated!
If anyone has pictures of mounting brackets or hose routing, that will also be appreciated! I'm not afraid of a little fabrication.
braided stainless is a little tricky to cut without the braid fraying out, but well worth the effort vs regular hose-I used -6 hose,and first mounted the cooler under the battery area with a fan mounted-later,after battery relocation,remounted the cooler underhood in the battery area.I used a(very nice stacked plate style) cooler from a ~1994 Ford Explorer,drilling out the original fittings and tapping for 1/4 pipe to use AN fittings.
braided stainless is a little tricky to cut without the braid fraying out, but well worth the effort vs regular hose-I used -6 hose,and first mounted the cooler under the battery area with a fan mounted-later,after battery relocation,remounted the cooler underhood in the battery area.I used a(very nice stacked plate style) cooler from a ~1994 Ford Explorer,drilling out the original fittings and tapping for 1/4 pipe to use AN fittings.
I'll probs mount it in front of the radiator and fab some sort of bracket to get it to work. What size are the stock tranny line?
You can use Earl's ultrapro. Way more flexable than stainless braided and 100x easier to put together. Earl's makes tube nut adapters that you can put right on the factory cooler lines. Plumb right out of the factory cooler into a secondary cooler then back to trans. The tru cool by long is a good cooler for cheap money. Simaler to the B&M unit but not paying for the name. If you want to go the cheap route and just cut the factory line, slip on rubber hose and use hose clamps you can do that. The factory trans cooler lines are very low pressure. 20-30 psi. Either way works. I had a small long cooler inline with the factory unit and on a gauge I was seeing 120 max degrees. Hope this helps.
You can use Earl's ultrapro. Way more flexable than stainless braided and 100x easier to put together. Earl's makes tube nut adapters that you can put right on the factory cooler lines. Plumb right out of the factory cooler into a secondary cooler then back to trans. The tru cool by long is a good cooler for cheap money. Simaler to the B&M unit but not paying for the name. If you want to go the cheap route and just cut the factory line, slip on rubber hose and use hose clamps you can do that. The factory trans cooler lines are very low pressure. 20-30 psi. Either way works. I had a small long cooler inline with the factory unit and on a gauge I was seeing 120 max degrees. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the reply.
What size tube nut adapters do I need? I don't know the stock size of the tranny lines.
I'm gonna cut the return tranny line 3-4 inches before the radiator and adapt the hoses onto the cut tranny line. I have a diagram in my head, but it's hard to explain haha
What size tube nut adapters do I need? I don't know the stock size of the tranny lines.
I'm gonna cut the return tranny line 3-4 inches before the radiator and adapt the hoses onto the cut tranny line. I have a diagram in my head, but it's hard to explain haha
When I installed a cooler onto my GMC van, I used Earl's hard line adapters (male), Jeg's 90-degree hose barbs (female), FI fuel hose clamps and the rubber hose that came with the Tru-Cool LPD cooler.
IIRC, the steel cooler lines are 3/8" diameter. F-Body lines might be smaller - https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...oler-line.html. However, it's best that you confirm this yourself. It's not that hard to check.
I mounted mine where a splash shield used to be.I used the former shield as a template of sorts to make a bracket using the shields mounting points for the cooler.Incorporated a yamaha R6 fan to draw heat out at around 180*, works quite well.My front cooling fan prevents me from using that location.
The brass switch above triggers a relay, which in turns powers the fan.
For you guys that want to run stainless braided high pressure hose that attach to the hard lines with the proper adapters I will list all part numbers from summit racing. Btw this make a very clean install and guarantees you more driving with less leaks. These 2 fittings will convert your hard line to AN fittings- (1)RUS-640331, (1)RUS-640600, and these will finish off the install, (3)RUS-610020 straight fittings, (1)RUS-632060 proflex -6an hose, (1)RUS-610160 swivel 90 degree. Took a while to compile all these part numbers but I used them on my car and worked great for around a hundred bucks plus cooler of course.
