I installed an aftermarket t56 in place of my factory t5 in the fall. Went mostly pretty smooth using my former parts to swap it except for the crossmember and having to redo the y-pipe. No big deal. My question is the angle it sits at. I have it setting as high in the tunnel as I can get it, I believe I’m at about a 3 degree angle with it. Started at 5 but I was able to get it a touch higher. It just looks awful low to me though. I know it’s about 2 inches longer than a LT1 t56 so it is in a narrower split in the tunnel. But I also see my super ram is now just barely scuffing the wiper motor. I’m lookin to see if anyone else is runnin one of these and how they made it work. I’m actually gonna mod the trans crossmember again to adapt a different to arm now. So that’s an easy thing to change. I am also swapping to a tubular k member, so I thought of maybe doin something with the motor mounts to get em lower, which should theoretically level the angle more.

Here you can seethe tailshaft difference from a LT1 t56

If i remember right this is the height it went in at. Sorry bout the blur
Thanks for any input

 

FYI
Mine is a Tremek #1386-000-011 Aftermarket.
Fits perfectly with a PRO 5.0 shifter (no mods to floor or centre console)
Fits flush to the shifter opening.
The transmission/engine angle is -2.5°. Drive shaft is leveled 0.0°. So U-Joint angle is -2.5°. Compound U-joint angle is -2.9°.
Had to shim the transmission up to max possible without touching tunnel. I wanted to reduce the U-joint angle as much as possible. The shims are between the transmission and mount. The angle was aggravated by the new polyurethane engine mount Energy Suspension #3.1116R. It did raise the engine around 1/4in.
The car is lowered so it did aggravate the driveline angles and ride height
I have Spohn 322 Torque arm and crossmember https://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992...nsmission.html
The crossmember does ride a bit low and will rub sometimes.
Part of the transmission touches the tunnel near the firewall. It can be "massaged/grinded to accommodate"

 

Ok. Thanks for the input. Same trans that i have. No cutting the floor. I modified a Hawks crossmember onon mine. Shifter sits just apove floor pan. Im assuming im pretty good then. Thanks again

 

Looks alright! Here's mine.

 

bolt metal down with the case bolts. Shim under the transmission mount until the transmission pushes the floor up and things will clearance perfectly.
Then remove the shim(s). Voila. Yep, I am aware this is not for the nambypambys.

 

Not sure I'm following you! What part are you replying to?

For my part, I just used a pry bar and massaged the floor a bit at the contact point. It did the trick

Cheers

 

Bolting sheet down by drilling 4 holes and bolting it down with the 4 bolts for the inspection cover (top of the case) would work. So would using the shifter bolts. Vibration will push the case into the floor and self-clearance things exactly where needed. Keep adding shims until things are ideal. This works well for the reverse lockout solenoid.
There you go.