I have a 1989 Camaro IROC Z. It has a built 283 with a B&M 144 supercharger mounted on the top. Currently dynod at 300WHP. My transmission, driveshaft, and rear end are all considerably weaker than what they should be and could explode at any moment. Im taking this supercharger off this summer aswell to replace it with turbo kit to get it to 420WHP where I thought It already was. So if they have already gone out at this low of power. I need something bigger. Im just looking for suggestions. Ive been looking at TKO 600s and Dana 60s.

 

So you know what you want to do, are you making a statement or asking a question?

If asking a question, please ask as such.

 

Like I said im looking for suggestions and someone to blatantly tell me dana 60 or or TKO 600 arent a good option but so far ive gotten 28 views and the only person to comment is a *****.

 

I've been eyeing the TKO myself. I think a D60 is overkill unless you are putting >800hp to the ground.

 

Dana 60 is WAAAAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYY overkill at that power level. Sure, it's as near indestructible as anything can ever be; but its weight, and its rolling resistance (power consumption) are some of the reasons why the HD trucks that it comes in, only get about 10 mpg. It uses up ALOT of power. A 12-bolt would probably be the best choice for your situation, from one of the aftermarket mfrs (NOT a stock one). A Frod 9", also NOT stock, would be the next best choice, but uses quite a bit more power than the 12-bolt, and doesn't fit the car quite as well. Cost is roughly similar. There are other comparisons that could also be made about the 2 such as parts availability and such but with that tiny of a motor and that little power, drive train loss is going to be a SIGNIFICANT factor for you; more so than ultimate power-handling capability.

For that matter, at 400 RWHP, your 10-bolt might be just fine, if you don't have a whole lot of traction. (street tires) The LSx people seem to get by just fine at that level.

Your stock drive shaft is fine as far as its power handling, although when other parts are changed, it might be forced to change as well. Yokes, length, etc. You'll just have to deal with that whenever you get to it.

You speak of the TKO. Do you have a manual transmission now?

 

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On https://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992...dy/Drivetrain/ They have everything you speak of. I dont think I would go for the Ford 9". I think from what you have told me im looking at the Strange Engineering 12 bolt on their website. I wish it told me power limits though. The driveshaft that is in it now is the cheapest one from DennysDriveshafts. Only handles around 375HP. I was gonna at least go for the one that handles 500. Cause I do plan on getting some wide rear tires like 275s with mickythompsons on it. The transmission is currently a re-built T5.

 

There is no such thing as "power limits". That's why people aren't telling you that.

You can DESTROY a T-5 with a 6-cyl, or make it live a LONG time behind a 400. It's all in how you treat it. The same goes for ANY drive train part. Nothing is completely indestructible.

I don't think you understand what "horsepower" is; the meaning of the word. The thing that tears up drive train components ISN'T that; although since that and the thing that DOES tear stuff up are somewhat correlated, it makes a reasonable surrogate for it. What breaks things is TORQUE, particularly PEAK torque. Which occurs at launch, and shifting, with a clutch that hooks up and tires that have traction. SHOCK LOADS in other words. Big smoky clutch dumps and speed-shifting are what tears stuff up. Which in fact is one of the advantages of automatic transmissions; besides being faster in most cases and almost always more consistent, it's MUCH easier to control the impact on everything else with one of those, than a manual. If you're going to set this car up for strictly strip use, I highly recommend considering switching to an auto trans.

 

I would also add, manual transmissions and turbochargers don't generally make a good combo. Turbos work best when they can just spool up and STAY spooled up. A manual trans defeats that because you unload the engine completely between gears. Driver inconsistency is also MAGNIFIED by the inevitable behavior of the turbo. Yeah sure you can make it go fast, but there's more to winning races than merely going fast.

 

No need for the attitude.

 

Just dreaming I think. No real world experience, I question why one would put a 283 into a 3rd gen, etc. Never heard of a rated driveshaft, I have a BBC with min 400hp 550ft/lb in a vehicle, never looked at what the driveshaft would be rated at, guess I got lucky.

I think the OP needs to lay out his build correctly,

 

What is the future going to look like when the youth of today can't handle the slightest adversity without having an expletive heavy tantrum?
Who cares what anyone else thinks? You do realize that people in the real world will judge you more harshly based on less, than anyone on the forum will? Compared to Youtube or Facebook comments, this place has padded walls.

 

Dang I miss Freddie, what a performer. Days gone by, thank goodness for youtube to relive it!

 

Young man, i/e the dana 60. Familiarize yourself with unsprung weight.

I won't tell you what to do, but will try to lead you in the right direction.



So let's just reset for a minute, can we?

Are you building a A-B car, or a ?

Let's kiss and make up, start over slowly, there's a few guys on this board that can help you immensely.

Me, I'm just listening to Chuck Berry...love a lil Jonny Be Goode

 

This is my "a" car. Assuming I understand your terminology as to it being my car that I keep in my garage. Never let a single bit of Wisconsin salt get on it. Turn it into my retirement car that is absolutely prestine and know every piece inside and out? Completely strip it. Repaint it. tweak every little thing. Then yes. This is that car. This is my project car. With my current income I have planned 1 year to have this car completely transformed drive train wise. forced induction wise. and hopefully dyno numbers. with my current list of parts coming out to little less then $12000. I added buffer for unknown side items. Then I will start cosmetics. Living at home and working full time is something im dearly taking advantage of right now while i got it lol. Ill have something nice while others are paying off student loans.

 

When I said an A-B car, I mean a strip minded car, so what do you want out of the car? Fast, handling, etc? If both, then a balancing act has to follow.

So, let's start back with the engine, are you going to go EFI, or going carbed? Back to the car, road hugger or 1/4 mile at a time?, different engines builds but you have ways to compromise, neither will be the best for both.

 

Aaaaa, confused A-B with daily driver. Yes Id prefer as close to the middle as I can get with fastness and handling. Yes which I was reading up on finding correct spring weight for my car and going with coil overs eventually with adjustable spring weight to hopefully iron it out like you said. This car is carbureted. And ya like I said I want it to hug the road safely but still be fast with good braking. Like I have told my friends I want it to be an 89 with the same 1/4 times and goals of a new Camaro. TO ADD to that I wont be taking it to the drag strip. Ill be taking it the track. thats a good way for me to put it. To learn how to drive well.

 

Well, I didn't mean spring weight, I was talking about unsprung weight, i/e the stuff that touches the ground...i/e heavier wheels, heavier rearend, etc,. all affect handing.

So what engine are you planning to run? Let's start there.

 

Everyone in this thread is being an a$$. Just sayin'.

I'm guessing you got the 283 super cheap and that's why it's in the car? Simply putting a 350 under that blower will kick it up to the 400 HP you want. Bigger engines and better cylinder heads make more power.

If you want a manual trans upgrade then your options are pretty much a T56 from a '93-'97 Camaro Firebird, or the aftermarket TKO 500/600.
But two reasons to go with an auto trans: (1) it's quicker from a standing start; and (2) a good manual trans and clutch costs quite a bit of money.
I personally have a T56 and it's been a good transmission, but it was all pretty expensive by the time it was working in the car. Pretty darn fun to drive though, but it's not so fun at the drag strip when I get clobbered off the line by somebody (more like anybody) with an auto trans.

Stock 10-bolt axle can maybe stay. Just put a posi and some gears in it and see how long it lasts. Somewhere between 3.73 to 3.90 gears with a manual trans will be a fun street/strip combo. Anything more than a 3.90 gear will snap like a pretzel in a 10-bolt axle. Use Chevrolet (GM) gears, they've got the best metal and run quiet.

Options for aftermarket axles are the 12-bolt, Ford 9" and S60. And Hawks Motorsports will put together a Ford 8.8" axle if you want. The Ford 9" will give you the most choices of brakes, parts interchangeability, and future upgrades. I personally have a 20 year old Strange 12-bolt with the Super Posi and C-clip eliminators. It's been a great axle but I'm very limited to what brakes will fit. These days I'd probably buy a Ford 9". I'd stay away from the S60. It's massive and there are way too many unhappy customers with problems. Strange just doesn't seem to have their act together with the S60.