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Dana 60 Rear End (Strange S60) Drag Racing Rear Ends
The Strange Dana 60 Rear End (S60) is a vast improvement over factory Dana 60 rear axle, while still accepting the same components. The casting and oversized main caps are constructed from a proprietary nodular iron which is substantially stronger than cast iron. This has allowed the casting to be made not only thinner and lighter, but also stronger. The heavy duty main caps are fitted with adjuster nuts that eliminate the side carrier shims. Backlash and preload are adjusted by a turn of a wrench, greatly reducing the time and effort to change a gear or differential. The 9.750” ring gear can endure a tremendous amount of abuse- equal to a 9” Ford at a fraction of the price. It is also more efficient , taking less horsepower to drive the ring and pinion. The S60 weighs 15 lbs. more than a comparable 9” rear end, and only 20-25 lbs. more than an aftermarket 12-bolt. The S60 rear end is equipped with 35-spline axle shafts without costly upgrades. All castings feature a drain plug located at the bottom. Mopar applications have a machined provision to accept factory or aftermarket pinion snubbers. GM F-body applications have the torque arm mounting location cast into the unit, while A-body and G-body feature integrated upper control mounts. The HD 1350 series pinion yoke is larger than any factory yoke and needs to be accounted for when ordering the driveshaft.
STREET/TRACK: The Dana 60 Rear End (S60) is equipped with a Spicer Trac-lock (clutch style) posi unit, Standard gear set, 35 spline Alloy axles, 7/16” or 1/2” wheel studs, HD 1350 series yoke, u-bolt kit, and steel rear cover. The Trac-lock is designed for street use in vehicles that will not be raced. The optional Truetrack (helical gear) differential is a great choice for a Street / Track applications. Dana 60 gear ratio choices are 3.54, 3.73, 4.10, 4.30, 4.56, 4.88, 5.13, & 5.38. Upgrades are available to the differential and wheel studs. Options include a chrome moly 1350 yokes, Strange aluminum black powder coated cover, LPW HD aluminum cover, and satin black powder coated housing. The steel cover would also be powder coated when this option is ordered.
F-BODY: This assembly comes standard with the upgrade to the Truetrack (helical gear) differential, Standard gear set, 35 spline Alloy axles, 12 mm or 1/2” wheel studs, HD 1350 series yoke, u-bolt kit, and steel rear cover. Gear ratio choices are the same as above. The rear can be configured for 82-92, 1993-1997 or 1998-2002 factory disc brakes and 3 or 4 channel ABS. Aluminum covers can not be used due to the close proximity of the rear end to the gas tank. Upgrades include provisions for ABS. Options are a chrome moly 1350 series yoke and satin black powder coated housing. The steel cover would also be powder coated when this option is ordered.
Did you order a Strange S60 or a Strange 12 bolt? They're not the same.
The "Super 60" is rather large and is like something you'd see in a new 1 ton diesel truck.
Did you order a Strange S60 or a Strange 12 bolt? They're not the same.
The "Super 60" is rather large and is like something you'd see in a new 1 ton diesel truck.
the strange 12 bolt s60 the new design from strange bolt In to the f bodys
Right, you're kind of tripping up on the terminology though.
That's basically a "Super 60" axle adapted to the F-body with torque arm mount.
They also make a "12 bolt" axle adapted to the F-body that is based on the old car GM 12 bolt axle.
I didn't say anything earlier because you already purchased it, but honestly you might want to do a little poking around at LS1tech about the S60 axle. You might be alarmed how many people have troubles with those things. I don't know, I never looked into it seriously, just remember seeing that topic matter pop up and took note of it in my mind.
Right, you're kind of tripping up on the terminology though.
That's basically a "Super 60" axle adapted to the F-body with torque arm mount.
They also make a "12 bolt" axle adapted to the F-body that is based on the old car GM 12 bolt axle.
I didn't say anything earlier because you already purchased it, but honestly you might want to do a little poking around at LS1tech about the S60 axle. You might be alarmed how many people have troubles with those things. I don't know, I never looked into it seriously, just remember seeing that topic matter pop up and took note of it in my mind.
I'll go research it thanks..good thing it's new and im sure its warranted..
If parts are more available now for 9 bolts I suppose that aint a bad option but i certainly do not feel comfortable investing in them when they are 7.75” vs a bigger 12 bolt if you plan on more power down the road.
back when i had a 9 bolt they didnt have parts available. You had to try order gears and parts from
australia which costs alot of money then and who knows when you would get them. The cones were a problem. One tire would burn rubber hard but the other would not consistently when worn out. Like i said before i broke a spider gear in the 9 bolt on a stock bolt on car that was running high 13’s lol
i also chipped a worm gear in a 10 bolt torsen diff with 650 whp on the street lol
I would not get a dana 60. Just not a great rear imo even if it is cheaper. 12 bolts make much more sense and alot more parts available imo. They work fantastic
Yes the D/S60 is WAY overkill and much too large/heavy IMO. Honestly wouldn't be surprised if that sucks an additional 5% of drivetrain loss...... that's literally a dump-truck rear end. Ford F-series (3/4 ton and up) some with dump beds..... ridiculous IMO. Probably great if you have 1500 HP - plenty to spare - would need the strength to handle it.
Spider gear failure on the 9 bolt - totally understandable with the factory worn out cone-style hot garbage. With the Torsen there are no spiders anymore. Also no more one-tire-fire.
The 9 bolt is light, strong, and efficient. Excellent IMO for builds in the 500-600 WHP range. Plenty of people using them successfully.
GD
Last edited by GeneralDisorder; May 17, 2020 at 09:16 PM.
I'll go research it thanks..good thing it's new and im sure its warranted..
Well, that's the problem is Strange was denying warranty claims. That's why it caught my eye. Again, I did not research it, just one of those things I filed in the old memory banks.
Well, that's the problem is Strange was denying warranty claims. That's why it caught my eye. Again, I did not research it, just one of those things I filed in the old memory banks.
I'm reading on ls1 tech alot of guys love it...and the shop thats building the car wont leave me hanging if something goes wrong he is a strange dealer so I hope that helps...car will be driven hard and a procharger will be added in the near future so if its overkill so be it...lol
Well, that's the problem is Strange was denying warranty claims. That's why it caught my eye. Again, I did not research it, just one of those things I filed in the old memory banks.
Did alot of reading over at the LS1 tech page it seems like 90% love the s60 dana rear LOVE say it is heavier but all that run it say the goes faster with it...no idea why but thats what the people are saying.. and i see what you mean about warranty but from what im reading it seems none do...some are older posts so i have no idea if that changed by todays standards.... it looks like its a great choice from me...i want to be able to drive to the track beat the hell out of it and drive home and not worry about the rear going boom...so i think ill be very happy with our decision...to go with the s60 dana
The 9 bolt is not a GM diff. It's a Borg Warner diff that's made in Australia. I wouldn't say it's stronger than a 12 bolt, but it's been proven behind some pretty serious machines in Australia. They came in Nissan Skyline's and Holden Commodore's over there.
Here's a 9 second Commodore with 510 HP at the rear wheels from an RB30. Still running the 28 spline 9 bolt (same as used in the F body):
It's your money but don't kid yourself into thinking it's "necessary" or blow wind up my skirt and try to tell me your 300 RWHP street car with radials is going to break the 9 bolt. Because it's not.
GD
Oh by the way maybe you should go into a different business because guessing my rwhp you were way way way off 300 rwhp LOL I wouldnt believe a word you say..you were so wrong ..
No dyno numbers as of yet we will tho got anxious and tried the car on the track not bad for its first shake down passes we have a few bugs to tweak but overall it did well... I guess 300 rwhp really moves these pretty good... not bad for just rolling off the throttle because nittos suck...lol
I try not to install any Dana-60 differentials into vehicles in my shop unless they are making at least 1,500+ HP.
I really prefer an extremely well tailored 12-Bolt for anything under 1,000 HP.
But I use all of GM, Ford, Dana, and custom Diffs for project cars depending the vehicles Power-Train.
I also like the jumbo versions of the Ford 9" (IE: 10", 11", or 12" ring-gear: 9+ Diffs for builds up to 3,500+ HP.
Check out these aftermarket 9" Ford based Pinion-Gears... 9.5", 10", and 12" gear sets:
All 3 Diffs (12-Bolt, 9", and Dana-60) have their flaws stock...
The amount of broken Ford 9" Diff housings is laughable!!!
All 3 have been improved by the aftermarket to minimize their weaknesses...
They all still each have PROs and CONs compared to one another...
But they all can be built very nicely and made to work for a broad range of uses and power levels.
By far, the 9" Ford based SUPERSIZED Differentials have become the KING of Massive-Power rear-ends...
15,000 HP... No Problem!
The dana s60 is already installed and happy we did it...its strong and overkill but I wanted that I made this updated post because I was told i.was lucky to make 300 rwhp with our build guess we made more.
Oh by the way maybe you should go into a different business because guessing my rwhp you were way way way off 300 rwhp LOL I wouldnt believe a word you say..you were so wrong ..
Based on your ET you are running about 330 RWHP. That's far from "way way way" off. That's 10% off. So I was 90% accurate. Get your numbers straight.
Based on your ET you are running about 330 RWHP. That's far from "way way way" off. That's 10% off. So I was 90% accurate. Get your numbers straight.
GD
dont know what calculator you use bud by weight of car and ET thats 370 rwhp and guess what that wasnt even the whole potential of the car 1st time out with it and it had traction issues and still ran 1.6 60fts so.guess its putting power down to manage that...and thanks for the advice the s60 is a perfect rear way better then a gm bolt no worries of breaking anything now.. can't wait to throw on the MTs and turn some 11 Ets with my 300 rwhp car... lol
Lets see the dyno sheets and for the matter the weight on the scale.
GD
I have nothing to prove to you it's a full weight 89 iroc z with t tops with my wife in the car its 3500 lbs and she drove it at the track...its her car.. and it wasn't even dialed in yet..so I'd say you figure of initially 300 rwhp is WRONG and 330 rwhp lol ok...
You're right. You have nothing to prove. Because you don't have any figures to prove it with. No Dyno sheet, no scale sheet.... nothing but some conjecture based on an ET. Could be 320, could be 370. Depends on weight. Without a scale sheet - if you are 100 lbs off on your estimate it makes a large difference. Dyno will tell the real story.
If you read this official GM document containing the actual curb weight of your 1989 IROC-Z Coupe, you will find that it is 3,099 lbs and you can deduct 50 lbs from that just from the aluminum heads you swapped in (bet it has an aluminum water pump too? Oh and what about that 9.5" converter vs. a 12" stock unit?). I certainly hope for the sake of your wife's health that she is not 450 lbs:
The math doesn't add up to 370 wheel. Sorry but it adds up to about 330 wheel.
And most scales that you will find - such as at metal recycling yards, the city dump, etc.... are not well calibrated. They are only really interested in the difference before/after and are weighing by the fraction of a ton. Those numbers are.... less than useful for this type of calculation because in practice they are rarely accurate enough. Again the Dyno tells the tale.
But - if you go by the published weight given by GM, and you want to actually account for the weight savings of performance parts such as aluminum heads, etc and do some arm-chair dyno calculations based on ET. It's very likely about 330 wheel. Which isn't bad. But it's nothing special for a 383. Certainly didn't need that throttle body upgrade. I'm pushing 325 from iron Vortec heads on a 350. Worse heads, less compression, and less displacement. And I fully expect to be over 350 wheel with the AFR 195's I'm in the process of installing at the moment. Dyno sheets coming soon.
GD
Last edited by GeneralDisorder; Sep 23, 2020 at 12:20 AM.
You're right. You have nothing to prove. Because you don't have any figures to prove it with. No Dyno sheet, no scale sheet.... nothing but some conjecture based on an ET. Could be 320, could be 370. Depends on weight. Without a scale sheet - if you are 100 lbs off on your estimate it makes a large difference. Dyno will tell the real story.
If you read this official GM document containing the actual curb weight of your 1989 IROC-Z Coupe, you will find that it is 3,099 lbs and you can deduct 50 lbs from that just from the aluminum heads you swapped in (bet it has an aluminum water pump too? Oh and what about that 9.5" converter vs. a 12" stock unit?). I certainly hope for the sake of your wife's health that she is not 450 lbs:
The math doesn't add up to 370 wheel. Sorry but it adds up to about 330 wheel.
And most scales that you will find - such as at metal recycling yards, the city dump, etc.... are not well calibrated. They are only really interested in the difference before/after and are weighing by the fraction of a ton. Those numbers are.... less than useful for this type of calculation because in practice they are rarely accurate enough. Again the Dyno tells the tale.
But - if you go by the published weight given by GM, and you want to actually account for the weight savings of performance parts such as aluminum heads, etc and do some arm-chair dyno calculations based on ET. It's very likely about 330 wheel. Which isn't bad. But it's nothing special for a 383. Certainly didn't need that throttle body upgrade. I'm pushing 325 from iron Vortec heads on a 350. Worse heads, less compression, and less displacement. And I fully expect to be over 350 wheel with the AFR 195's I'm in the process of installing at the moment. Dyno sheets coming soon.
GD
Ok
I know what the car weighs I've weighed it plenty of times when englishtown was still there the car weighs with driver 3500 lbs..
You just cant face you were wrong can you...well time slips dont lie and AGAIN 1st time out car will be much faster so guess what the HP is there..and much better heads I run 113 vette heads..an out dated lpe219 cam...guess it's not a bad build...for what I spent in parts...
But why is there such a dispute, over an engine making 370 or 330 horse-power?
It's only 40 hp difference...
I just feel badly hearing the arguments; when 370 and 330 are so damn close.
because this guy said I was lucky to make 300 rwhp with this build ...well guess he was wrong.. and AGAIN 1st time out car has more in it...
And you dont think I know what the car Weighs only owned it for over 10 years and our other one for over 25 years...we weighed them I know what they are
You're right. You have nothing to prove. Because you don't have any figures to prove it with. No Dyno sheet, no scale sheet.... nothing but some conjecture based on an ET. Could be 320, could be 370. Depends on weight. Without a scale sheet - if you are 100 lbs off on your estimate it makes a large difference. Dyno will tell the real story.
If you read this official GM document containing the actual curb weight of your 1989 IROC-Z Coupe, you will find that it is 3,099 lbs and you can deduct 50 lbs from that just from the aluminum heads you swapped in (bet it has an aluminum water pump too? Oh and what about that 9.5" converter vs. a 12" stock unit?). I certainly hope for the sake of your wife's health that she is not 450 lbs:
The math doesn't add up to 370 wheel. Sorry but it adds up to about 330 wheel.
And most scales that you will find - such as at metal recycling yards, the city dump, etc.... are not well calibrated. They are only really interested in the difference before/after and are weighing by the fraction of a ton. Those numbers are.... less than useful for this type of calculation because in practice they are rarely accurate enough. Again the Dyno tells the tale.
But - if you go by the published weight given by GM, and you want to actually account for the weight savings of performance parts such as aluminum heads, etc and do some arm-chair dyno calculations based on ET. It's very likely about 330 wheel. Which isn't bad. But it's nothing special for a 383. Certainly didn't need that throttle body upgrade. I'm pushing 325 from iron Vortec heads on a 350. Worse heads, less compression, and less displacement. And I fully expect to be over 350 wheel with the AFR 195's I'm in the process of installing at the moment. Dyno sheets coming soon.
GD
That listed weight is wrong. Mine with just a Procharger kit and lightweight centerline billet wheels was 3860 with me in it. 200lbs me -100lbs ATI kit= 3560. Can't calculated track weight without a driver anyway so that point is mute. That listed weight is wrong. Mine is fully loaded except a power antenna. Thats a good et and mph for a 3500lb Iroc na. Definitely not 300rwhp.
That listed weight is wrong. Mine with just a Procharger kit and lightweight centerline billet wheels was 3860 with me in it. 200lbs me -100lbs ATI kit= 3560. Can't calculated track weight without a driver anyway so that point is mute. That listed weight is wrong. Mine is fully loaded except a power antenna. Thats a good et and mph for a 3500lb Iroc na. Definitely not 300rwhp.
Thank you I've weighed it plenty of times car with driver that's how you find true hp imo Weight vs time vs mph all calculators I use puts it at 360 to 370 rwhp and I'll say it again thats not the full potential of the car she was having issues hooking on the 555rs that was rolling off the line..and stock shift points of around 5200 rpm being this has a cam and the first performance intake I'm thinking 5800 to 6000 rpm shift points so it will pick up ET and mph so its making decent power..
Yeah my 89 was 3400 lbs with power everything and leather. I was a light kid back then when i got it. Lol. 383 Alum heads, delete ac/smog, with roll bar and light carpet and skinnies/drag wheels was 3450 with me
i would say 109 mph and 3500 lbs is 320 whp. My 99 TA with 308 whp ran 108 at 3650 lbs in good air. Almost 112 in spectacular air quality and 3411 lbs gutted.
my 3450 iroc ran 115 mph on 372 whp. 119 on 400. It was 392 whp heat soaked 10th pull. Lol
those are nice times and might improve with more tuning and seat time, but far from 370 whp. 300-320 isnt far off.
I still think it's more sorry it wasnt even run on it's full potential so were going off runs that werent fully the cars true all out it had issues which are being addressed and couldnt even use the convertor maybe not 370 but not 300 rwhp either...all calculators put it with weight and ET 350 to 370 so guessing there off? And before you say yes then there off on all the cars I've ever run and all the cars people I know run..I did it with my own car weight et and mph and it puts it right on the money as far as HP. Compared to ET and mph..
But whatever im not a dyno guy looking for numbers my proof is in the slip my dyno is at the end of the track...
If this gets into the 11s NA it far went past my expectations! Especially since I was trying to make her a 12.50 car
I dont know any calc that outputs rwhp numbers. While its true hp to ground matters, torque multiplication with a converter also matters so drivetrain losses are harder to compute. So given flywheel hp numbers is easier to do and well documented over the years.
i just find most guys overestimate their power numbers on the dyno. Dyno is a heart breaker lol its happened to me several times lol. But if the car does what you want thats all that matters anyway
i use the wallace hp calc. Weight and mph. Now it gives somewhat fully optimized results. 3500 and 109 is 350 hp flywheel. Meaning car may make more and just not fully optimized to use all the power.
my 383 119 at 3450 is 447 hp. But it wasnt fully optimized for suspension gearing and shift points either. Being typical to see 15-20% loss on dynos at the tire that be closer to 460-490 flywheel. So it may dyno 320-350 but dont be surprised it doesnt. Tpi cars run well on the torque curve and dont always make big peak hp figures, kinda like diesels
I think the first is helping with torque too my wife said it pulled basically the whole run..but it also wasnt shifting high either gotta log it see exactly were it is shifting now to figure out the holley hp for data logging lol
easy! Datalog setup ecu logging. Set the internal datalog to trigger when tps is over 90%. It will start recording for x amount of time You specify. Everytime you go wot.
if you pedal the car however you may need to adjust the trigger method lol
easy! Datalog setup ecu logging. Set the internal datalog to trigger when tps is over 90%. It will start recording for x amount of time You specify. Everytime you go wot.
if you pedal the car however you may need to adjust the trigger method lol
Ok that Part is easy how do I playback the data log to see it ?
i just find most guys overestimate their power numbers on the dyno. Dyno is a heart breaker lol its happened to me several times lol. But if the car does what you want thats all that matters anyway
Can confirm. I see this day in and day out. Everyone thinks their combo is more and then they get the dyno numbers and .
Ran 6 cars on my dyno yesterday. I think the only way you get used to the dyno numbers is to do it all the time. And we run stock cars from time to time - and amazingly they do exactly what the manufacturer claims minus 15% drivetrain losses. Over and over again.
I still say probably around 330. Given a good driver with better tires could probably put down some better numbers.
You're delusional (just like every other poor SOB without a clue) if you think that's 370 though. The numbers just aren't there.
You’ll hook laptop up to ecu via the cable and go to datalog download logs from ecu. It should save them to a folder somewhere and you go open them
Ok I know he ser it to record at wot do you know what software I need to download to my laptop? The USB cable i have access to I see that right near the screen..
It makes no difference at all!!!
There is enough tire-spin/ track changes/ weather changes to eat up 40 hp let alone a few 100 hp at times...
My slowest vehicle runs 9.90s... 40 hp makes no difference at all... even on the launch.
I do not run anything close to a 12 second ET... but 40 hp... probably is worth at most: 0.200 time with any consistency.
Ok I know he ser it to record at wot do you know what software I need to download to my laptop? The USB cable i have access to I see that right near the screen..
you need the holley efi software you should beable to download it off their site. Or it should have came with the holley ecu on cd for you to install
It makes no difference at all!!!
There is enough tire-spin/ track changes/ weather changes to eat up 40 hp let alone a few 100 hp at times...
My slowest vehicle runs 9.90s... 40 hp makes no difference at all... even on the launch.
I do not run anything close to a 12 second ET... but 40 hp... probably is worth at most: 0.200 time with any consistency.
I disagree lol 40 hp is alot of power and not to be shrugged off. Theres a big difference in 370 vs 330. Thats 4-6 mph at that level. Thats alot
Yeah the closer to stock you are the more small changes in power change results lol. Faster you go more power and weight don’t necessarily mean as much...to a point
honestly at the same weights, 330 to 370 is probably closer to 3 mph but could be 4-5. Depending on the averages across the pull. Peak numbers by themselves dont always do a lot. I just know my own combo that initially made 372 whp ran 115-116. After the last pull i gained like 30 lb ft at peak and 20 whp. The increase in average down in the low to mid range and the smaller gain at peak rpm made the car go 118-119
my ls1 car went from 109 i think in texas air to 112 with just dropping 220 lbs out of the car lol.
Well again this wasnt fully at its max potential im.sure it will pick up mph when shifting it higher..also air fuel and timing im.sure takes a play into it I need to data log gotta see what it was doing I'm trying to figure that out now I know it recorded just need to retrieve it.
Those heads depending on the chamber work may pick up with 2 more degs but it will be a few hp nothing substantial. Afr seems fine. 12.4-13.0 is where you like to try to see what makes best numbers. Slightly richer side at max torque 2800-3400 rpm and slightly leaner at max hp rpm and beyond but play with it
Those heads depending on the chamber work may pick up with 2 more degs but it will be a few hp nothing substantial. Afr seems fine. 12.4-13.0 is where you like to try to see what makes best numbers. Slightly richer side at max torque 2800-3400 rpm and slightly leaner at max hp rpm and beyond but play with it
He had it set at 13.0 air fuel and 38* wot timing I backed it down to 12.5 1st run then back to 12.7 but I put timing down to 34* all runs
It's mostly the principle of the argument. This guy really doesn't know diddly and didn't build or tune the car yet is making claims about it's performance as if he has significant experience with such matters. 40-50 HP isn't the easiest thing to come by on an old school small block running NA on the street. His head and cam combo isn't there and the car hasn't been tuned on a dyno where it's power can be measured and changes profiled to determine proper AFR and timing for max power.
It gets old dealing with people like him. I do it every day and I see the unrealistic expectations on basically EVERY car that comes to my dyno. After a while you just get tired of people and their claims - especially the guy that has wild claims and didn't build the car and isn't responsible for tuning the car. They want to "belong" to the group of gear heads but all they have is a wallet to buy their way in and someone else does the work and laughs behind their back.
It's mostly the principle of the argument. This guy really doesn't know diddly and didn't build or tune the car yet is making claims about it's performance as if he has significant experience with such matters. 40-50 HP isn't the easiest thing to come by on an old school small block running NA on the street. His head and cam combo isn't there and the car hasn't been tuned on a dyno where it's power can be measured and changes profiled to determine proper AFR and timing for max power.
It gets old dealing with people like him. I do it every day and I see the unrealistic expectations on basically EVERY car that comes to my dyno. After a while you just get tired of people and their claims - especially the guy that has wild claims and didn't build the car and isn't responsible for tuning the car. They want to "belong" to the group of gear heads but all they have is a wallet to buy their way in and someone else does the work and laughs behind their back.
GD
I hear that.
I agree. Customers who see their engine/ power-train/ vehicle on testing equipment (engine-dyno, chassis-dyno, trans. run-stand, diff. run-stand) for the first time in my shop...
Often seem shocked that the parts they wanted do not always make the power that they thought.
Also in the same way... often after I have tuned/ modified something they are surprised at times how much power can be made.
I do a ton of GM engines per year... all different types.
I do not specialize in LS engines or any one engine.
I still do a lot of Gen I small block and big block Chevy engines, small and big Buick engines, V6 Gen I Buick engines, and all aluminum V8 Buick engines, Etc...
I mainly only use GM Vortec and Air Flow Research heads for SBC Gen I builds.
For example, for a basic normally aspirated 350 build:
-Reworked Vortec heads will easily yield 450 - 500+ HP on pump fuel.
-The smaller AFR heads will easily yield 500 - 575+ HP on pump fuel.
The larger SBCs in the 388" - 427" range easily add another 50 - 100 HP to the numbers above.
I build a lot of SBCs on pump fuel in the 550 - 650 HP range before power adders.
I build a lot more that add Nitrous-Oxide and/ or Turbo Charging.
Even only using two types of cylinder heads... I send out combinations all the time in the 500 - 1,200 HP range.
It is a lot more common today for SBCs and many older engines to hit these power levels, than you think.
I build a ton More Gen III/ IV LS engines as they are more popular...
But there is plenty of opportunity now for cheap 500+ NA power, or cheap 1,000+ Turbo power available.
It is honestly crazy how cheap it is to build this kind of power today!
You're delusional (just like every other poor SOB without a clue) if you think that's 370 though. The numbers just aren't there.
GD
Well, speaking of delusional, reading print/etc., you tried to tell the guy his car was just over 3000lbs, you cited some source. You told him the scales he used...etc...now had you bothered to actually look into things, you'd have noticed 3rd gens weigh 3K-3.3K lbs, depending on how they are equipped, i/e iron duke v V8, manual v auto...feel free to complete the list.
Just go on and build a truck load of the superior 9-bolt BW rears (I've had two BTW) and tout how strong they are, and compete with anything else out there.
Look GO, you have good knowledge, no question about that. But real life experience and real sh-it that a hotrodder does and has done, and especially if they finally have the dollars to do it the right way and not just get by, trumps what you have been told about the 9 bolt. Simple fact. You haven't run a 1000HP V8 in front of one, you've been told/read a 1000 HP Nissan...etc..., were these 1/4 mile at a time cars, or track cars? Or did you bother to ask? Did you ask about the shock load the 9-bolt would take with that 1000 HP Nissan off the line?
Some times it's better to just say, "I'm right, you're wrong", then walk away instead of continuing to stir a pot to finally be right. If in your mind the 9-bolt is all that is needed, then screw the rest of us, go to bed at night with a smile on your face knowing we all spend too much money for no gain.
But coming from a guy (me) who has been burning up stuff, breaking stuff, going faster than I bet you ever did, and on a budget that would make you laugh...I know exactly where the guy is coming from...
He doesn't want "good enough", he want's to make sure he doesn't ever have to do it again. It's a peace of mind, it eliminates stress that he may have when he goes out and romps on it, he's basically eliminating the weak links.
Do you remember the guys running in the mid 60's-up? Before decent tires became available? Mercy, '56 Chevy car rear in a 3600 lb car would get you into the 12's...450 HP of snotty engine, dump the clutch and go. Why did those rears live? No traction. guys/gals that could afford it, would scrounge for the big Olds and Pontiac rears when they were able to afford sticky tires.
Sigh, my last long winded word is basically over build, never hurts a thing.
The main thing going for a 9-Bolt, is the use of 4 spider-gears for better load-distribution...
But they still break, just like any other Diff... Especially on slicks!!!
Not breaking a Differential by over-powering it (having NO traction)...
Is not the same as not breaking a Differential with traction on slicks with track-prep.
My healthiest 9-Bolt had 31-Spline Cones and Side-Gears from a GTO, 31-Spline Moser Axles of some proprietary alloy that cost about $900/ axle,
a new and broken-in 3.70:1 Borg-Warner gear-set, ARP cap-studs, new Timken bearings, SKF double-lip seals, solid-pinion spacer, T.A. girdle-cover, and synthetic-oil.
There is not much more to change in a 9-Bolt...
My point is...
A few too many launches/ wheel-stands on slicks (turned power down to aprox. 650 HP to the tires)...
and kept breaking side gears.
I like the 9-Bolt tons, when comparing it to a Chevy Diff with a comparable sized ring-gear!
But it is still a small and weak diff.
The main thing going for a 9-Bolt, is the use of 4 spider-gears for better load-distribution...
With the Torsen upgrade there are no spider gears to break.
The 9 bolt would have done the job at his power level with a Torsen upgrade. Even with more power. But certainly at his ~320 wheel. And done the job without as much parasitic loss.
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