Has anyone on here made an 8.8 hybrid rear end assembly using a 1992-1997 Crown Vic axle? I seem to recall that the 10 bolt axle tubes will slide into the Crown Vic tubes with just a little cleaning (grinding or lathe work). But I cannot find a good DIY anywhere on using the Crown Vic axle, only Explorer hybrids.

I have both axles and it seems true (8.8 tubes measure 3" OD, 10 bolt tubes measure 2.625"). Looking for confirmation from someone that has completed one of these hybrids.

I plan on using the Hiltsy mount for the torque arm. Planning to document the build when I get to it later this year.

 

Just buy a Midwest Chassis fab 9". You'll be happy you did, it's really the only answer out there for these cars. They've designed them to go in exactly how the 10 bolt came out plus they come with their own torque arm making it even easier. The amount of time, money and effort you'll throw into your 8.8 will pay for the Midwest 9". I have a quick performance 9" and am pulling it to go with a Midwest fab 9 housing as I just bought their torque arm and crossmember

 

What makes you say this?

I have purchase Direct-Fit Rear Differentials for about 45 Third-Gens now.

Different Model Differentials (Ford 9", Ford 9+, Chevrolet Pass. 12-Bolt, BOP 8.2", Dana 44 IRS, Dana 60, Etc.) from many different Companies without issues.
They all worked with the original design Rear Suspension and Brakes.

Almost all of these Cars, I also had installed a Sub-Frame and Roll-Cage System that the Torque-Arm now ties into... instead of attaching at the back of the Transmission or aftermarket Cross-member.

 

Thanks for your suggestion on the 9". I looked at those and could only see buying one if I happened into a 9" center section for the right price (a posi 9" chunk goes for >$500 around here).

If I decide to not build my own, I would go this route since I already have an 8.8 posi center section with good gears: https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/82-...-housing-only/

It is $1220 and is a bolt in affair just like the Midwest. The other benefit to this option is that it can use off the shelf 28 spline F-body axles.

It is looking like I will have find time to tear the axles apart to see if the cut off 10 bolt tube will slip fit into the 8.8 tubes.


(In case someone notices the OP name is different, I was temporary locked out of my original account car46999, so I created car469999 since I was not sure I would be able to recover the account)

 

That's actually a pretty good price. But with all that welding that took place around that pinion bearing does Hawks machine that true again?? I'd have a hard time believing there would be no warping in that area

 

I was going to do this same 8.8 swapin 4th gen I found a Ranger and Mazda B4000 axle tubes were same ID as 4th gen axle tube OD was same - the Explorer tubes were bigger and needed a sleeve to make up the differences I went to a PNP and found a 3.55 ratio and a 4.10 (was doing one for a friend too) so I pulled axles and backing plates off then just needed a 28 spline posi carrier(plentiful), my big issue was to heat pumpkin to around 700 degrees to get nickel rod to weld on the Hilti mount - I had no way or place to do this. I think you need to use a Kiln to get it up in temp - weld it then back in kiln and let it slowly cool down.

 

Again how does one know if the pinion bearing area is still true?? That's a lot of heat in that area and how does one know it hasn't warped in any kind of way?? Did you use a jig to keep it all straight while heating and welding??

 

Good points on the pre and post heat, there is some good DIY info in this post. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...ication-3.html

Do you recall what the Ranger/B4000 tubes measured?

 

You're going to warp cast sufficient to make the two pinion bearings out of line, or the outer bearing warped such that it won't properly hold a pressed-in race? Not with the heat he's suggesting, you won't.

 

It's just a can of worms I wouldn't want anything to do with. That's way too much heat tossed at a cast piece

 

Having not welded one previously my self I don't have much to add to the thought that it might warp or distort the center housing. Preheating the housing evenly up to 700 F will help prevent warping as would welding small beads and moving around.

But I do know that many have completed this hybrid setup, and I have not seen one report of an issue related to a distorted housing.

FWIW, When asked about warping, Hawks posted on Youtube that they shipped over 100 of them in 2015, with no issues.

 

no but there ID was a snug fit to the OD of stock 4th gen axle tubes, a press would help install them, which did make me wonder on my press would be good for one side, the other would be too long there was a guy in Oklahoma that was welding these up I even supplied him with 4th gen tubes through a guy but never spoke to him