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I got a Moser 12 bolt in 2005 and have only driven it 5k miles. Basically new.
FINALLY getting around to getting it ready for my ground up restomod build Z28. Since it has been so long I completely forget if I set it up right and also when I was a kid I painted it horribly.
I have started to clean it up and get it ready for paint, but want to break it down further to give it all a once over.
I know how to do all the painting stuff but I don't know anything about the bearing caps TQ settings or anything like that. I will call Moser later today, but figure I would get a thread started in case anyone here had any advice. I figure the inside of the gear housing doesn't need any special cleaning. Just fresh fluid and friction modifier. I have an aluminum moser cover with bearing cap load bolts. Rear end is overkill for what the car will be, a show car, but it is what I've got.
Last edited by dennisbernal91z; 05-24-2023 at 06:57 AM.
Reason: Typos
Very odd (maybe) wear mark on the right axle tube. Hard to see. No idea what could have been rubbing there. Anyone know if this is how they come? I did so much sketchy stuff as a kid, could have been abrasion from a steel braided brake line... insane if it was. But don't think so since that area was hard line and just a small flex steel braided line mounted to the pumkin. Any idea? Think it will be just fine for what I will be throwing at this. Stock LS3 with a hot cam.
Good place to start would be, put the cover back on and take it to the quarter car wash, and blast as much crap as possible off of it. Maybe take along a wire brush and whatnot to scrub it real good. Then bring it back home and remove the easily removable pieces, especially the axles and backing plates.
Then after that, some POR15 or equivalent, or something like CRC "cold galvanize"; followed by some sort of high-quality primer (I like the Mercury Marine stuff); followed by paint. I'd recommend having the backing plates and their hardware hot-dipped in zinc and gold-irridited, then maybe paint the plates with wheel clear-coat to preserve the finish.
Can't begin to guess what made those scratches, looks almost like those were already there before that tube was welded into the pumpkin.
Good place to start would be, put the cover back on and take it to the quarter car wash, and blast as much crap as possible off of it. Maybe take along a wire brush and whatnot to scrub it real good. Then bring it back home and remove the easily removable pieces, especially the axles and backing plates.
Then after that, some POR15 or equivalent, or something like CRC "cold galvanize"; followed by some sort of high-quality primer (I like the Mercury Marine stuff); followed by paint. I'd recommend having the backing plates and their hardware hot-dipped in zinc and gold-irridited, then maybe paint the plates with wheel clear-coat to preserve the finish.
Can't begin to guess what made those scratches, looks almost like those were already there before that tube was welded into the pumpkin.
Moving the rear end is sorta out of the question, it is really heavy. I would need something with a bed. Not impossible to rent or borrow but a pain.
I have a nice pressure washer that I can use. I bet it will strip anything off the rear. So I don't send POR15 dust everywhere I am removing what I can with a razor blade. Those are the scratches you see along the length of the tube. Did that last night.
Good idea on the clear coat for the rear end cover. I will for do that.
As for the hardware, it was all in rough shape so I dipped it all in acid etch to get the rust off. Forgot to degrease it. Will do that soon and try the acid etch again.
Might just look into the cost of stainless hardware too since I don't want to bother with getting the hardware coated by a third party.
Behind the plate there is a bearing that should be quit snug. Talk with Moser to be sure but you might need to rent a axle puller to remove. It is a sliding hammer type of tool No big deal very easy to use.
Yup, the axles are just typical C-clip axles unless it has "C-clip eliminators", which I see none of in the photos; they just slide right out.
Easiest way to remove the bearings is with a 6' piece of pipe and a hammer. They just bonk right out. No real need to do that though unless you think they might be bad somewhy, or if you want to sterilize the inside of it too, or you want to COMPLETELY strip the housing down for powder-coating or something which would also require removal of the pinion bearings.
Won't be powder coating.
I remember assembling these years ago.
There are no c-clips.
I remember needing to have the bearings pressed onto the axles.
Gonna call Moser as more of a sanity check. Also want to know what the specs are for torturing the clamps inside as well as how to preload the caps with the aluminum cover.
good stuff. I am a fan of my Moser 12 bolt and its good to see you will be rocking one also in your super modified build!
What rear gearset do you plan on running? If you are looking for a set of 3.55 gears that are crisp and well proven, I have just that, US gears purchased from Moser when I had them build the rear back in about 2018 or 2019. A few years back i removed them and I installed a set of 3.91 gears and these have been boxed up ever since. If interested, let me know!
Last edited by IROCZman15; 05-25-2023 at 08:11 PM.
Thanks for the offer. I have 4.11s in the rear end now. Gonna stick with them.
Called Moser tech yesterday, got all the torque specs and how to remove the axles. Easy as pie. Gonna pull it all apart, give it all a visal inspection and wipe everything down and close it back up then get back to stripping the housing as I prep for paint.
I am guessing the answer is yes, but can I mix up some 2k epoxy primer and spray it on, then use a sponge brush to get the nooks and crannies?
Also, to get the metal shavings out of the axle tube... how? Haha.
Guessing I can pull the axle tube seal found near the wheel, then have access to see in there and use an oil soaked rag or cotton ***** on a stick or something to wipe inside the axle tube to remove all the shavings.
Buy new axle tube seal, reassmeble and move onto paint. Thoughts?
to get the metal shavings out of the axle tube... how?
Yup, you pretty much got it.
Remove the carrier, axles, bearings, & seals. Then swab it out with rags soaked in solvent (I'd use lacquer thinner), pushed through with a pole or piece of conduit or something.
To be clear, I am suggesting much less work in my above post. If I remove the carrier I am doing quite a bit more work to ensure it is installed correctly again. I am 100% positive the shavings are within an inch of the drilled out plug hole. I am just looking to ensure I get those shavings out.
Really think I need to remove more than just the outer axle seal? Axles are already removed.
05-24-2023, 06:54 AM
