Hey everyone,

Just finished swapping a 95 T56 in place of the T5 on my 85. Used a tick adjustable master/slave cylinder. Followed instructions on how to set up the slave cylinder per Tick. The problem is the clutch pedal sits really close to the floor. How do I bring the clutch pedal further out from the floor without messing up the slave cylinder?

 

The tick master has an adjustable rod. It's for adjusting pedal height. It should be as easy as threading the adjuster to the desired pedal height. This should be the issue unless there is air in the system. Does the pedal have normal resistance and just less through? Does the clutch release when you push the pedal?

 

I’ll repeat the rev test to make sure it’s adjusted correctly. When I first start pressing the clutch pedal in there is no resistance for like the first half inch of travel then the resistance increases and remains constant all the way to the floor. It seems to have more resistance than the T5 did. I’m wondering if it’s normal for this setup for the clutch to sit so low (definitely not an ideal driving operation feel). The clutch rests even with the brake pedal when the brake pedal is fully depressed.

 

Is it fully releasing the clutch? When you let up on the clutch in first, when does it start engage? 1/4-1/2 way up or at the top?

 

Height is adjustable as you have the Tick master. Overall travel may be changed; you can approach this a few ways.

The T5 pedals travel farther. Any 93-02 F pedals, V6 included, shorten overall pedal / master cylinder piston travel. This may be more desirable / smoother to drive.

Another way is a smaller bore Tick master; don't know what you have. They have offered different bore sizes and may still. Larger shortens overall pedal travel. Smaller lengthens.

There was a slave cylinder (Cavalier?) with the same design as the 93-97 but larger bore. This lengthens overall pedal travel.
HTH

 

I know you didn't ask this, BUT I used stock T5 87 Iroc pedals/master and a stock 4 cylinder Cavalier slave and it worked perfectly. No adjustable anything and it was perfect with 800 rwhp!

 

Similar, except I used the stock LT1 slave/fork etc....and I didn't have 800 hp.

All of the stock parts though, worked fine, for me. When I did my swap back in ~1994, no one had aftermarket parts.

 

I used the stock LT1 hydraulic stuff with T-5 pedals as well; butt the pedal stroke is WWWWWWAAAAAAAAYYYYYY too long. The clutch fully releases by about halfway down. Sometimes it even makes a weird noise if I push the pedal all the way to the floor, like the whole thing is moving so far in there, that the throwout is rubbing on something (probably the clutch gear bearing retainer on the transmission). So yeah, it can "work", butt it's not really right. If I were ever to get sufficiently motivated I'd go find myself a set of 4th gen pedals.

 

So, for people w a pedal stroke that is too long and you have issues w too much travel you can add in a fluid accumulator inline. They market them as pedal height/engagement adjusters. It goes in line to your clutch hydraulics. You can put it between the master/slave or if you have a bleed line it can go there. You can use it to adjust the engagement point.

 

Looks kinda like a $100 solution to a $1 problem.

A set of junk 4th gen pedals bolts RIGHT INTO our cars, if you cut the gas pedal section of it off and retain your 3rd gen gas pedal arrangement. Alternatively you can adapt the 4th gen gas pedal setup butt that's a bit more w... w... wo... [ppppppppuuuuuuuuuuuuuuukkkkkkkkkkkke] sorry, can't bring myself to say dirty 4-letter words like that, my momma will wash my mouth out with lye soap if she catches me.

 

Actually, a perfect solution to a dual disc that grabbed too high. It was also a perfect solution to prevent over travel of my release bearing. So more like a 100 solution to a potential ruined release bearing and clutch. Not to mention the 30 min instal vs R&R a trans/clutch. So just putting it out there cause it's applicable to some of these comments.

 

I’ll double check engagement point after I finish installing the new MGW shifter. But I remember it starting to engage very quickly.

 

I’ve got the 93-97 t56 Tick adjustable master/slave. I’d like to move the pedal further away from the floor to give me more overall travel to work with.

 

Yep, so start with adjustment of the pedal pushrod.

Their current info says that model is 7/8 bore.

You might have them look up your order if you bought with Tick. (There were fraudulent sales of their master cylinder in the past.)

They list 13/16 and 3/4 cylinders, so that would be one way
If you want the pedal travel longer.